Movie costumes – Fashion Through Herstory

Handmaid’s tale (photoshoot)

Published on September 4, 2018 by fashionthrougherstory4 Comments

I think no one have missed the awfully good series that is Margater Atwoods “The Handsmaids Tale” – and I say “awfully” because it is So good and yet so horrible when you think about how close such a future might be.
And if you haven’t seen it, Do! you will be moved, and angry, terrified, and totally addicted.

With hate and misogynous thinking creeping back (or maybe it never really disapered to begin with) into our minds.
With les than a week left to the Swedish election for parliament, I actually fear that we are going backward, and instead of learning from history, we are headed head long into Atwoods dystopian future.

So, to show my opposition against the hate and backward thinking of these parties, I wanted to do a “Handmaids tale” photoshoot.

For this shoot I’m wearing My 1550s Kirtle with apron and cap, a bumrol, embroidered shift, mittens and most importantly my red “riding hood” cape.
I also managed to get a few shots with my baby girl E (her clothes are all modern).

“Freedom, like everything else is relative” (The Handmaid’s tale 2017)

“Ignoring isn’t the same as ignorance, you have to work at it” (The handmaid’s tale 2017)

“Under his eye…”

“Nolite te bastardes carborundorum/ Don’t let the bastards grind you down” (The handmaid’s tale 2017)

“They should never have given us uniforms, if they didn’t want us to be an army” (Handmaid’s tale 2017)

“Ordinary is what you’r used to” (the Handmaid’s tale 2017)

“Better never means better for everyone…It always means worse, for someone.” (“Handsmaid’s tale 2017)

“Stop! Don’t touch my baby girls rights!”

“Praised be, bitch!” (Handmaid’s tale 2017)

Photos by: Maria Petersson

2016 in Review

Published on January 2, 2017 by fashionthrougherstory2 Comments

2016 is one of those years we will always remember for it’s tragic events, raising lack of humanity/ compassion for the most vulnerable in our society (and world).

But for me, 2016 will always be one of the mot important years in my life – it’s the year my son was born.

Thus a big change in my priority’s (and time/energy) leaving my sewing somewhat on the backwater.
And taking into account that I had a 6 months hiatus from sewing last winter(Oct 2015 – April 2016) there is a miracle I managed anything at all. But I did actually finish a few items both before and after my delivery in June.

And here they are:

1790s printed Roundgown:

Viscose 1790s Roundgown (both with and without baby-bump)

Regency Petticoat

Babyclothes:
Modern:
Jackets, bodys, pants, hats and rompers several of each.

Historical:
A hat and shirt for a newborn

Halloween:
Henry VIII Costume

Menswear:
(not yet posted about)

Medieval shirt:

Regency Shirt:

1950s turquoise viscose dress:

1450s Italian Gown:

1400s Chemise

1450s Italian Court Gown

1550s Elizabethan gown:

Brocade gown

Quilted petticoat

I’ve also finished a few minor projects like, hemming skirts/pants, sewing curtains/pillows, adjusting dresses etc.

And as always I have a few things on their way which I didn’t manged to finish before the new year (but which hopefully will be completed in he following months).

Al in all I think I did pretty well with my 3 mayor project, which all has been on my wishlist for quite some time.

Henry the Eight – Don’t be such a baby

Published on December 13, 2016 by fashionthrougherstory7 Comments

2 (or 3 months) ago, when deciding on projects for Halloween (Elizabeth I for me) I realizes that this would be the first (of many?) costumes I would make for my baby, and that I really wanted it to be special.

So what would I dress my chubby redheaded infant as for his first Halloween…?

The answer came to me pretty fast:
Hernry VIII – of course

Portrait by Holbein d.y. and the one I used as reference for my baby costume.

I started by taking a close look at the inspiration/reference pic, and flipping through the pages of “The Tudor Tailor” I found what I needed.
Male Tudor outfit.

Then I hit the fabric store in search for some suitable fabrics.Left to right: Brown fake fur (stash), burgundy/red singel Jersey, grey/silver printed Jersey, white knitted leggings and golden trim.

Since this was to be a costume worn (once) by an infant I decided to make it as easy and wearable (read soft/comfy) as possible, using Jersey fabrics and omitting anything complicated (like slashes) or small/sharp (like beading and pearls).
I also decided it was totally acceptabel to cheat as much as possible 🙂

My first move vas to get a pair of white leggings/tights from a well known clothing store.

Then it was time for the actual sewing.

I started with the body using a baby pattern I used previous and knew and liked. I stitched it up using my serger and a double needle on the edges.

The finished Body:I like that it is usable as a modern/regular piece on its own.

Next piece was the “skirt”, which was made from a lenght of fabric which I hemed and pleated to a elastic waistband.

The finished skirt:

Then it was time for the main piece – the cape

I cut a rektangel from the red fabric, folded it over cut it open at the front and pleated it at the shoulders. Then I stitched on some decoration.

The sleeves was made from rectangles stitched together, decorated and gathered at top and bottom. Ignore the wonkyness – I stitched this with my baby sleeping in the carrier on my belly, so not the best attention to detail.

Then I cut the fur collar from a piece of stash fabric.

Pining and stitching the fake fur to the cape.

The finished Cape:

Lastly I made a small hat/beret from a circle and a strip of black jersey.

The finished hat:

This was such a fun project and I really love how the little coat/cape came out.

and finaly

Here’s some photos of my own prince wearing the outfit:

“Eat all the things…”

And some pics with the two of us together (Elizabeth I and Henry VIII)

Photos: Elin Evaldsdotter

Elizabeth I – Photoshoot (Movie inspired)

Published on November 22, 2016November 20, 2016 by fashionthrougherstory2 Comments

Once everything for my “Elizabeth I” was finished I dressed up for the photoshoot – which just happened to be on Halloween 🙂

I’m wearing my Elizabeth gown accessoriced with my fake ermine cape, Tudor jewelry, neckruff and plastic crown and septer (and a hideus plastic wig).

Then I removed the regalia to try to resemble the cleaner, more innocent (?) look earlier in the movie, and the edgy cover photo.

This pic would be perfect for any historic harlequin novel – don’t you think

Photo: Elin Evaldsdotter

A Royal Cape – Fake it ’til you make it

Published on November 20, 2016 by fashionthrougherstory5 Comments

To turn my Elizabeth I dress into something a bit more royal, I decided to make an ermine cape.

I originally wanted to make a coronation robe like the one my inspiration painting (below), but since I only got scraps left from the dress fabric, I opted for a simpler (and more theatrical/fake) style.

I used my old cape pattern, and a soft white fake fur I bought a few years back to made a short cape.

Then I cut small pieces of a black fur trim I had in my stash and placed them on the cape to get the ermine look.Testing the spaces of the black “tails”.

Once I decided their placement I stitched them on by hand.

An hour later the cape was finished.

The finished cape:

The facts:

What: A fake Ermine cape

Pattern: I drafted my own.

Fabric & Notions: 0,5 m white fake fur, 30 cm black fur trim, thread, hook and eye.

Time & Cost: 2 hours (1 hours to attach the black fur pieces), about 100 Sek (10 Usd)

Final Thoughts: Not one of my finest works, but it will do for its theatrical purpose.

Elizabeth I – Photoshoot (Historic)

Published on November 15, 2016 by fashionthrougherstory3 Comments

Before the first snow fell last week I manage to get some nice autumn photos of my new “Elizabeth I” Dress.

I’m wearing the Tudor/Elizabethian dress, on top of several layers of petticoats, bumpad and shift, and accessorized with the new partlet, french hood, an old neckruff and the amazing jewelry from “Evil and og“(link to blogpost). (Excuse the modern hair but its just impossible to get a nice center part with a short side bangs.)

Photo: Elin Evaldsdotter

Elizabeth I – Construction part 3 – French Hood

Published on November 11, 2016 by fashionthrougherstory2 Comments

The next thing that I needed to make to complete the Elizabethan look was some kick as headwear.
And what is more associated with this time period then the french hood.

Bildresultat för elizabeth french hood Elizabeth I in “power suit” and crazy perm – and some kind of french(isch) hood.

I used the pattern from “The Tudor Tailor”, and “A Damsel in this Dress” great tutorial for the construction.

Starting by cutting the fabric from the (by now VERY limited) scraps of the golden brocade I used for the dress, cotton sheet for lining and buckram.
I used the version with the pointed font edge, to make it a it later in style then the regular ones you often see.

Then I stitched the millinery wire to the buckram and the brocade to the now even stiffer pieces. Attaching the outer fabric by stitching over the piece again and again.

Then I added the lining.

And steamed the pieces into shape. Side piece/headband seen form the side.

Despite careful measuring and testing of the pattern it ended up a bit to small, causing me to eliminate the seam allowance and stitching the the back seam edge to edge. Which I then covered with another scrap piece of fabric.

Then it was time to make the billiment, using plastic and golden pearls.

Attaching the string of pearls to the edge of the cresent.

Another piece of billiment was pleated using satin ribbon and attached o the front edge of the hood.

Then I added the cresent to the base

and stitched the lining/bag to the back. Here you can also see covering of the piecing at the back.

The hood from the inside

From the side.

The last thing to do was to make and attach the veil.
I used some nice black velvet cut almost in the shape of a sleeve, and attached to the back of the hood. In case you wonder, <= This is how I made almost the whole hood (carrying my baby on my body)

The Finished Hood:

(Worn with Elizabethan dress, partlet, jewelry and neck ruff)

Facts:

What: A 1550s French Hood

Pattern: French Hood from “The Tudor Tailor”.

Fabric & Notions: Scraps of golden brocade, cotton lining, and buckram, 1 m satin ivory ribbon, thread, 0,5 m black velvet, 2 m millinery wire, ivory and golden pearls.

Time & Cost: About 5 hours (its almost completely made by hand) and about 100 Sek (10 Usd)

Final Thoughts: I LOOOVE it! 🙂
I think this is one of my best millinery work so far. It look so nice and authentic and I had so much fun making it.

Elizabeth I – Construction Part 1

Published on November 7, 2016November 6, 2016 by fashionthrougherstory7 Comments

As mentioned in my previous post (Elizabeth I – costume analysis) I’ve wanted to make this dress for years, and now I finally have.

As usual I started the project looking at pictures trying to decide in which direction to go for the different elements of this costume. I already had the fabric (a golden/brown polyester furniture brocade) I got for a steal quite some time ago.Inspiration and fabric

A quick conceptual drawing.

I used the pattern for the “Dorothea Body” from “The Tudor Tailor” for the bodice and cut a mock-up from a plain cotton sheet.

I added some bones and a plastic ruler down the front, and put it on.

The it was really good (ignore the bad lacing at center back), and I felt it would give me the flat, conical shape I wanted.

Then I cut the fabric carefully placing the motifs in the perfect spots for each piece. Cutting the sleeves, making sure the pattern placement matches on both left to right sleeve.

All fabric cut and ready to go

As usual I started with the skirt, pinning and sewing the three widths of fabric together to a giant tube. Carefully matching the motifs at the seams.

Not perfect, but close enough.

Then I pleated and pinned the upper edge to my waist measurement, leaving an opening at center back.

I then stitched a piece of cotton ribbon to the top as a waistband, sewed on a hook and eye and put the whole thing on my dress-form (over bumpad and several petticoats, of course) to pin the hem. I cut and stitched the hem using 15 cm wide pieces of cotton fabric to the inside.

Then it was time for the bodice.
I started by marking and stitching the boning channels to the interlining and lining, after basting hem together.

Lots of channels to give the right shape to the bodice.

I added the bones made from plastic zip ties.

Then I stitched the shoulder-straps together and pinned the wrong sided of the fashion fabric to the interning, and stitched the neckline together.

After turning and pressing the neckline, it was time to stitch the sides together. As you can see I did a small miscalculation and had to let it out a tad to get it to fit.

I continued by adding lacing grommets to the back. I choose the golden ones to match the fabric.

Once the bodice was “ready” I started on the sleeves.
After some experimenting with cover buttons I decided to skip the detail of placate and buttons on the sleeves and just stitched them together as they where.The sleeves stitched and ready (one is turned inside out).

Then it was once more time to try it on.

I’m so pleased with the fit and shape, and I love the placement of the big motif on he front.The sleeve looks pretty good to even though it’s just pinned on.

To get he full view of the dress I put the whole thing on the dressform.Starting to look like something 🙂

I finished the bodice by hand-stitching the lover edge, adding the sleeves and making a modesty placket to go behind the lacing.Last few stitches…

And lastly I want to acknowledge the different definition of Heroes I think of when making (and wearing) this costume:

* The first and foremost Hero must of course be the late queen Elizabeth I, who made a such big impression in history, and showing that women are just as capable as men at whatever they try their hands on. I love powerful and inspirational females.

* Then I want to thank the amazing people who dedicate their life and work at researching historical fashions and styles and who make their finds available to everyone who’s interested in re-creating these fabulous garments (of course I’m thinking of Waugh, Arnold, Friendship, Bradfield, Mikhaila/Malcolm-Davies and many many more).

* I also want to celebrate all the amazing teachers who inspire us all to learn and grow in what we do. For me I count my college sewing teacher Lillian (who I still refer to when life gets hard), my mentors and co-workers at the theater atelier who taught me to have fun sewing and don’t be so afraid of doing it wrong. I also thinking of all off you great seamstresses and bloggers out there who constantly inspires me to push myself skill-wise and to try new things. I

* An lastly I want to give a cheer to all the “new to this” sewists and costume enthusiasts, and to say that you don’t have to make everything perfect (or historical) cause sometimes you just want a pretty dress 🙂
It might take a few years, but someday you will make that dress you fantasied about for so long.

The finished dress:

Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 10/2015 – Heroes

How does it fit into the challenge: This dress is a dedication to lots and lots of strong and capable women, and men, but most to the one and only Queen Elizabeth I.

What: a 1550s dress inspired by the movie “Elizabeth” (1998)

Pattern: Bodice pattern remade from “The Dorothea bodice” from “The Tudor Tailor”, the sleeves was copied from my previous mentor at the theater atelje, the skirt is basically just 3 pieces of fabric sewn together.

Fabric: 4,5 m of golden polyester furniture brocade/damast, 1 m white cotton for lining and interning the bodice.

Notions: Thread, grommets, 3 m of cotton cord for lacing, 20-30 zip-ties heavy for boning, hook and eye and 1 m cotton ribbon for the skirts waist.

How Historical Accurate: Not at all I’m afraid. The fabric is modern both in content and looks, the bodice pattern are okey for the period but the back lacing (bot back placement and the use of metal grommets) is all wrong and I think the sleeves are wrong to. And the fact that I stitched it all up by machine and using modern techniques don’t make it any better. I would say 2/10.

Time: About 15 hours (spread into countless short sessions over 2,5 months)

Cost: About 500 Sek (55 usd)

First worn: Late October for photos

Final Thoughts: I love this dress, even though its far from historical accurate I think it does look really good (especially with a more historical styling) and I liked wearing it. My only concern is that I need to make something about the way the bodice point wrinkles. and I definitely need to anchor the bodice and skirt together, with hooks and eyes, for my next wearing.

Elizabeth I – Costume analysis

Published on November 5, 2016 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

One of the costumes I wanted to make since I first became interested in historical costumes is the yellow dress from the Movie “Elizabeth” (1998), and last year I decided it was time.
The October theme for HSM2015 was “Silver screen”, and since I acquired the perfect fabric a couple of months before I made grand plans to make the dress during the fall.

Then life happened (Jupp, baby haze), so this summer,when I finally had the energy to once more dream of pretty dresses, the yellow dress was not far from my mid.
And then when the HSM16s theme “Hero”, lined up with an growing itch to sew and grand planes for Halloween, I knew that the time had come, at last.

So lets take a look at the Dress:

(Pictures from “Costumers guide“)
It’s made in a yellow/golden brocade with a snakeskin feel to the fabric.
The bodice are stiff and ends in a deep point at center front.

The skirt are worn over layers of petticoats and probably a big bumpad to get the hips really wide and rounded. It’s either parted at front over a identical petticoat or pleated to look like it’s open. I think its the later, which you can better see in other pics.

The line of the dress are slim and soft with a flat bodice front and rounded hips.

The skirt are pleated to the waist all around and opens up at the back. Even though you can’t see it in this pic I’m fairly sure the bodice laces up the back (as most of the dresses in the move has this somewhat un-historical feature). You can however see the sleeves and the delicate buttons (which I later decided to leave of my version).

The neckline is square with a slight angle.

Behind the scenes worn with a neck-ruff.

ref23 The dress is worn during the coronation styled with a massive coronation robe and beautiful regalia.

Here you can better see the pleating of the skirt and the impressive point on the bodice.

I’m actually not sure if this picture are of the movie original or if its a great copy but i’s beautiful on the les.

The painting the movie based everything of.

Wicked Red Riding Hood

Published on October 21, 2016October 17, 2016 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

Another series from last years Halloween photoshoot:

Little Red Riding Hood
(Dressed in my 18th century Maids outfit paired with the riding hood cape, worn over stays, petticoats, stockings and reproduction shoes.)

Inspiration