And so it was time to get some photos of the new dress.
I’m wearing (besides from the dress) my regency stays, a chemise, stockings, ballerina slippers, my old straw bonnet, the new chemisette and embroidered bag.
The second part of “Romantic Recollections” Regency challenge was to add embroidery to the piece I just made.
But since I’m a total beginner at embroidery I decided to not risk my new gown but instead make a reticule to decorate.
For the design I turned to my book about 18th century Embroidery.
I used a design element from a original pair of stays but changed the style from metalwork to silk embroidery. My design sketch based on the drawing from the book.
It took me two nights but once the embroidery was complete I pressed them to circles of stiff fusible interlining. Then I stitched the bag from a long strip of satin, gathered it to the circles. The lining was made a lot smaller and in regular cotton sheeting. I made a channel at the top and added ribbons for straps. Although the bag turned out nice, the proportions are all wrong, and it’s way to big. So after I took some pictures of it, I took it in quite a bit to make it better.
To finish the look (from Janet Arnolds book) I also needed something I’ve been planing to make, but never taken the time for before – a Chemisette.
So now was the time 🙂
Using the pattern diagram and pictures from Arnolds Book I quickly cut and stitched the chemisette. This pic is from Bradfields “Costume close-up”
The thing that had me thinking the most was the “Mushroom-pleated” collar, something I knew I would not be able to do with my cotton lawn and limited time. So i opted for a simple gathering to the neckband instead.
I cut the three layers of Ruches in different lengths, and pinked the hems.
In may I heard that “Romantic Recollection” Started a Regency challenge where you were to make something from the Regency period and then embellish it with some kind of embroidery during the course of may-June.
And as I’m always up for challenges and reasons to try new things I decided to join.
After some thoughts I decided to push myself to make a dess i’ve been thinking about for quite some time but never goten round to make.
The 1800s Apron/dropfront daydress from the Snowhill Manor Collection and Janet Arnolds “Pattern of Fashion” (thats also where this dress got its name). love the detailed drawings of it’s construction and the enlarged detail of the fabric pattern made me think of something I my stash. Remember this fabric?I’ts what I used for my 1825s Biedemier ball gown
You might aslo recall my disappointment when discovering the back of the bedsheet was white instead of purple.Something that turned out just perfect for this dress 😀
Just the facts:
Challenge: Romantic Recollections “Regency summer challenge”
What: a 1798 – 1800s Regency dress
Pattern: I used a mixture of “Simplicity …” and my own draft based on Arnolds pattern diagram för the Snowhill Manor daydress.
Fabric & notions: 1/5 a beedsheet, 0.5 m white cotton and thread.
How historical accurate: Pretty good. The print’s not period but the fabric and the look of it is good, and even though it made mostly by machine all the finishing are made by hand. So maybe 8/10.
Time & cost: About 10 hours and 100 Sek (10 Usd)
Final thoughts: I really like this dress and it makes me quite happy. The only thing I would change is to fix the front slits which now stands away a little from the body.
The day after I finished my dress I’d scheduled a photoshoot with my sister (and her 1860s ball gown).
Perfect timing 🙂
We took a while getting ready, working hard to get our hair to behave in a acceptable way. And I got to try my newly finished hair-pieces (more about that in an upcoming post).
For these photos I’m wearing my purple 1825s evening gown, Regency long stays, chemise, petticoat, white stockings, ballet flats, long white gloves, fan, pearl necklaces/wrist band and a flower wreath in my hair.
Once finished I asked my sisters to help me with some photos of my new regency outfit.
The day was nice with a clear spring sun, but a bit windy and chilly, so we where all pretty cold by the time we where done.
While working on my recently finished Regency spencer, I also decided I (of course) needed the headdress the lady in my inspirational picture is wearing.
Starting with a modern wool hat I got on sale from one of the leading fashion stores, I begun my hat making adventure.
I stated by removing the inner stay band and completely soaking the hat in hot water.
Then I used force and even more hot water to shape it in a somewhat oblong shape. In short supply of proper hat making equipment you got to use what you got…
When dry the hat had a rough but much better shape then before. The brown ribbon is pinned on, to hold the brim in while the hat dried.
Lastly I added some bias cut scraps of the spencers red wool to make the bonnet look even more like the inspiration.
I also remembered (even though it really was in the nick of time) to add some millinery wire to the brim to help it keep its shape. I finished the hole thing of by adding a woolen chokade and a cotton neck tie.
What: a 1805s riding bonnet
Pattern: None,just a re-shaped and cut hat.
Fabric & notions: 1 black wool hat, thread, scraps of red wool and black cotton, 20 cm millinery wire, 1 hook & eye and one gold button.
Time & cost: Not including the time it took to dry, I’d say about 3-4 hours. The only thing I bought anew was ten hat and it cost 35 Sek (3 Usd), the rest is scraps.
Final thoughts: I’m really happy of how it came out, and I think I looks smashing. But I must admit it looks a bit like a combination of a riding helmet and a truckers hat 🙂
I finally did it, the one thing I’ve been talking (and thinking about) for about 4 years.
I made a Regency Spencer!
I’ve been wanting one since I first got into this hobby.
Doing the occasional regency dance recital in our often les then agreeable Swedish climate (I’m thinking of you – dance recital oct 2013), I felt I really needed someting more then a shawl and mittens to keep the cold of my back between shows.
So in planing this years HSM I (as usual) added the wish to maybe this year would be the year when I finally made that jacket. Not getting any big hopes up, what with a baby, starting work again, and another big costume all wanting my attention.
But somehow I managed to get inspired, and to whip it out in between baby’s naps and other projects costume fittings.
I started by trying to decide which of my two Spencer patterns to use. Full of indecision I actually patterned and made mock-ups of them both.
Laughing Moon 129 “Wrap front Spencer”
I like the fit, and I LOVE the back peplum, and it was fairly easy to get together.
Period Impression 461 “1809 Spencer jacket”
I like the fit of the bodice, even though it felt a bit long and the peplum in the back was so wide it kind of got lost. Something that would be easily fixed, and I do love the way the waistband goes cross the sides and fasten on to the back piece.
I’ve also heard a lot (and not the good stuff) about the sleeves on this pattern, so I decided to try 2 different styles. The left sleeve is the original, which was bulky at the top, narrow at the wrist and twisted along the arm. For the left sleeve on my mock-up I used the previous patterned “Laughing moon” sleeve, which surprisingly fitted both my arm and the sleeve-cap much better.
After some debating back and forth my boyfriend decided for me, and I went with the “Laughing moon” style, with the fold down collar and the nice sleeves.
Then I busted my stash and found a lovely burgundy colored wool I bought for a Regency gentlemen tailcoat a few years back. I figured I could always get more fabric if I ever felt the need to make that (like that’s ever going to happen…).
Not sure if it was the reference image that inspired me or not (probably), but I also decided to make the collar and cuffs out of some black wool I got a whole bolt of in my stash.
That’s when I realized something was of with the collar.
Jupp, thats my boobs, and a VERY un-evenly attached collar
After some carefully re-measuring I discovered I’d stitched it on more then 1,5 cm uneven.
After some hesitation, where I tried to figure out how to fix the problem in the easiest way possible, I un-picked the stitches a few cm around the “to long” edge, and turned in the amount of fabric/collar needed to make it even. Then I hand stitched it closed again. That’s what you call cheating, but there was no way I would un-pick the whole collar, with the seam-allowence already cut and jacked.
I also needed to re-stitch the points of the darts a tiny bit lower, to get it to sit nicely over my stays.
Then I finished it up, by attaching the sleeves and adding hook & eye for closure.
It was around this point, when trying to iron the collar to lie nicely, I realized I’d totally forgot to make the the inner facing on the front edge.
That would explain the white lining peaking out way to much.
Serves me right, for not wanting to waste time or tracing paper on linings and facings, but simply using the main pattern pieces for everything.
Well not much to do then to use force (which meant several rows of stitches and a whole loot of steam) to try to get it to lie nice.
All the facts:
Challenge: Nr 3/2017 “The great Outdoors”
What: a 1800-1830s Regency spencer.
How it fit the challenge: It’s a wool jacket meent to be worn outdoors. The color (and my accessories) also makes it perfect as a riding outfit.
Pattern: Laughing Moon 129 “Ladies wraping front Spencer”
Fabric and notions: 1,5 m burgundy colored wool, scraps of black wool, 1,5m white cotton for lining, thread, 2 pair of hooks and eyes.
How historical accurate: So so. The Pattern and material are all good, but it is made entirely by machine using modern construction techniques. Strictly speaking it would be a 5/10, but since people of the period wouldn’t notice the machine stitched seams unless they were rely close I say 8/10.
Time: About 6-7 hours. It took me a week to make du to needed to wait for baby to sleep, but I’m confident I could whip one up in less then a day if I could work without interruptions.
Cost: Everything came from stash, but bought anew it would have cost about 150-200sek (20Usd).
First worn: Late mars for photos.
Final thoughts: I love it! I felt so nice in it, and would love to wear it as a piece in my modern wardrobe (Hm, maybe it will work well with jeans and a t-shirt…). It was also very fun and fast to make, and I’m already thinking about making a few more.