Elizabeth I – Construction part 3 – French Hood

The next thing that I needed to make to complete the Elizabethan look was some kick as headwear.
And what is more associated with this time period then the french hood.

Bildresultat för elizabeth french hoodElizabeth I in “power suit” and crazy perm – and some kind of french(isch) hood.

I used the pattern from “The Tudor Tailor”, and “A Damsel in this Dress” great tutorial for the construction.

Starting by cutting the fabric from the (by now VERY limited) scraps of the golden brocade I used for the dress, cotton sheet for lining and buckram.
img_0996 I used the version with the pointed font edge, to make it a it later in style then the regular ones you often see.

Then I stitched the millinery wire to the buckram and the brocade to the now even stiffer pieces. 14215737_10210265177447468_1049756619_oAttaching the outer fabric by stitching over the piece again and again.

Then I added the lining.img_1004

And steamed the pieces into shape. img_1025Side piece/headband seen form the side.

Despite careful measuring and testing of the pattern it ended up a bit to small, causing me to eliminate the seam allowance and stitching the the back seam edge to edge. img_1026Which I then covered with another scrap piece of fabric.

Then it was time to make the billiment, using plastic and golden pearls. img_1085

img_1087Attaching the string of pearls to the edge of the cresent.

Another piece of billiment was pleated using satin ribbon and attached o the front edge of the hood.img_1303

Then I added the cresent to the baseimg_1305

and stitched the lining/bag to the back.img_1309 Here you can also see covering of the piecing at the back.

img_1306The hood from the inside

img_1300From the side.

The last thing to do was to make and attach the veil.
I used some nice black velvet cut almost in the shape of a sleeve, and attached to the back of the hood. img_1273In case you wonder, <= This is how I made almost the whole hood (carrying my baby on my body)

The Finished Hood:
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(Worn with Elizabethan dress, partlet, jewelry and neck ruff)
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Facts:

What: A 1550s French Hood

Pattern: French Hood from “The Tudor Tailor”.

Fabric & Notions: Scraps of golden brocade, cotton lining, and buckram, 1 m satin ivory ribbon, thread, 0,5 m black velvet, 2 m millinery wire, ivory and golden pearls.

Time & Cost: About 5 hours (its almost completely made by hand) and about 100 Sek (10 Usd)

Final Thoughts: I LOOOVE it! 🙂
I think this is one of my best millinery work so far. It look so nice and authentic and I had so much fun making it.

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Green Boleyn disaster

About 5 years ago I decided to try my hands at historic costuming for the first time.

I’ve always loved historical movies and don’t really care about the plott or the actors performance as long as you can look at some beautiful costumes.

So when the movie “The Other Boleyn Girl” came out I fell in love with the beautiful costumes the leading actresses wore. I must say I still think they are lovely even though I now realize they in no way resembles what women of the time realy wore.

I decided that I really wanted to make the green dress Anne Boleyn/Natalie Portman wears when she reurns from France and starts to seduce the king (Henry VIII/Eric Bana).

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 I bought 5 m of emerald green taffeta, some dark green velvet and some lace – all of course in polyester. Back then I knew nothing about historical pattern-making and the importance of foundation wear, but realied on my “skills” at modern pattern making.

After studying pictures from the movie and the exibition of the costumes I started drafting the pattern.

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I made the bodice as an sleeveless gown with a higher back and the sleeves attached only at the armpitt. It closes in the back with a zipper. The lower parts of the sleeves consists of a big rectangel lined with the velvet, sewn into the elbow seam.

I cut the skirt as two rektangles and pleated them to the waist of the bodice. The “petticoat” is also sewn to the waistband and runs from the sideseams in the front. The whole dress are lined with green polysester lining, and decorated with a ribbon with plastic gemstones.

I also made the “french hood” and the “Boleyn necklace” to go with the dress.

This is what it looked like on my dressform.

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And at the phothoshootCIMG2308

DSC_0189At the time I vas really proude of the dress and tought it was beautiful.

A couple of years later (when I learnt a bit more about historic clothes) I really hated it, and decided to redo it.

So i ripped the skirt from the bodice and re-pleated it to a waistband, and made the petticoat as a separate piece. I also made sure the skirt would fitt over a bumrole and petticoat.

I ripped the bodice opened and got rid of the curved bust seams, boned the front and cut some shoulder straps to attach the sleeves on. I also took out the zipper in the back and replaced it with lacing.

I changed the decoration-band on the front and hood to a velvet ribbon and sewed on smal gemstones.

This time the dress looked much better, unfortanly I din’t had enough fabric (or knowlage) too make all the changes that was needed to make it really good. (And the hem of the petticoat is way too short worn with heels and a bumrole.)

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I will probably try to redo this dress again some day, or at least re-use the fabric as I still think the colour is wounderful.

And now I must admit that I found the perfect opurtunity to pull it out once more…