1490s Borgia Dress – Photoshoot

A sunny day in the end of August my sister helped me photograph my new Italian “Borgia” dress
(Construction part 1, part 2, and headwear).
And here are the result:

img_05060

tumblr_lt0cgyMJUB1qiu1coo3_400Main inspiration

img_0485

img_0489

img_0491

img_0496

img_0524

img_0549

img_0585

img_0566

img_0575

img_0621

img_0623

img_0682

img_0684

img_0653

img_0632

img_0650

img_0666Photo: Maria Petersson

***

Behind the scenes

img_0536Just a Mama out on a walk…

14124103_10210170980372600_1854777594_oHugs and kisses

1490s Borgia dress – costume study

Have you seen the Showtime series “The Borgias”?
(I know it’s a few years old but I don’t care)
Bildresultat för the borgiasIt’s a wonderful series About the 15th century pop Alexander VI and it’s full of betrails, sex, murder but most of all gorgeous costumes.
As far as history is concerned the show does lack a bit (inspired by the life of Alexander, would be a more accurate description), but costume wise they pretty much nailed it. And it looks beautiful.

Some real inspiration:
italian-venetian-fashion-clothing-16-century-early-modernThe left one is one of my favorite dresses and totally on my “to-do” list.

203bb1db73b4a51e70e789ae5d6ed138

800px-Italienischer_Meister_des_15._Jahrhunderts_001

And some of my favorites from the show:
3cd2ea0214797f20930e14c3e08edfee

02371b35816f5326e04ffde344686ad8

holiday-grangier-borgias-tvfash-1-325

large

The-Borgias-the-borgias-20483609-2000-2000

Pretty, Yes?

And before you have to ask, of course I wanted to make my own Italian dress.

After some thinking I narrowed it down to two main inspiration dresses from the series

Dress nr 1 The-Borgias-the-borgias-19420145-375-500I know he is gorgeous but lets try to focus on the dress…

tumblr_mumap5hf8M1qib0lto1_500Lovely light blue and gold coloring. I also love the lacing on the bodice and the sheerness of the chemise.

b39be5f92f6e0fc969a67e14e268f1fe

6e469769c298f469f20c55f72f55103dpretty profile

Dress nr 2;tumblr_lt0cgyMJUB1qiu1coo3_400

tumblr_mc079qPab21r4sg4ao2_250Perfection

While studying the pics I noticed that they actually reused the dress above in season 2 with a few alterations (new sleeves).holiday-grangier-borgias-tvfash-3-325

I actually think it is pretty great that they re-used the dress. No one, no mater how rich you where, could afford a new dress every day and to newer up-cycle your old favorite styles to the current fashion.

I also got tipped of that Showtime was offering this exact dress up for sale on their website.

Caption:
“Lucrezia Borgia, played by Holliday Grainger wears a sky blue embroidered gown in Season 2 of The Borgias during the baptism of her son, Giovanni. Includes the sleeves later added to the gown.

The gown is impeccably tailored with a full lining. The details are never ending, with each little turn revealing another pristine element. The piece was designed and constructed by expert period costume designer Gabriella Pescucci and worn by Holliday Grainger on set. The dress corset-laces up the back with the outer layer fastening by hook and eye.”00466503-959462_1000

cdb1e10373bdf8e918811e1e8b441d6c

The Borgias Lucrezia Borgia's Blue Dress with Sleeves

Did I mention these dresses are BEAUTIFUL… 😉

 

Outlander Photoshoot

As soon as the last piece was finished, I took my new “Outlander” costume out for some photos.
My fiance helped me, and I must say he did a splendid job both photographing and keeping up the good cheer.

I’m wearing: My new 18th century woolen jacket & skirt over stays, petticoats, bumpad and chemise. And a modern knitted shawl, linen cap, knitted mittens (which where gifted to me by the lovely Helena – Thanks again, I love them) and a basket for accessorizes.

IMG_8724

IMG_8728

IMG_8689

IMG_8691

IMG_8704

IMG_8707

IMG_8737

IMG_8700

IMG_8720

IMG_8745

IMG_8762

IMG_8761

IMG_8758

IMG_8764

IMG_8767

IMG_8768

18th century Outlander Garb

After studying the various looks of the character Clare in the series “Outlander”, comparing them to the fabrics from my stash I decided to go for the simple laced up jacket and skirt that’s became symbolic with the series.4714dc59393b6c63c5000f447531e4c3

I started by making a skirt out of some plaid wool I found in my stash (which I’ve bought on sale about a year ago).IMG_8618

The construction is really simple, since it’s basically two widths of the fabric sewn together and gathered to a waistband.IMG_8623I used some linen scraps for he hem facing and hooks and bars to close the waistband.

The finished skirt: IMG_8646

IMG_8650

IMG_8647

IMG_8651

Then I started on the bodice.
Using the pattern from the yellow caraco jacket, only changing the front to accommodate a stomacher instead of button closer, and adding a peplum at the bottom edge.

I used some leftover beige wool for the jacket, interlining it with some linen scraps and dark green wool for the stomacher – all made to match the plaid of the skirt.20150906_105227_resized

It went together pretty fast even though I made it completely by hand.IMG_8629

IMG_8628The peplum being attached.

IMG_8630IMG_8633
Trying the jacket on my dressform.

I attached the lining made from two different pieces f left over cotton sheets. IMG_8640

Then it was time for the eyelets to be made, using a separate fabric strip attached hidden under the boned front edge.20150919_183851

The finial thing to make was to ad channels and boning to the stomacher.IMG_8685

The skirt and jacket ready to be packed for the photoshoot. 20150920_125242

The finished outfit/jacket:IMG_8657

IMG_8658

IMG_8665

IMG_8667

IMG_8660

IMG_8662

IMG_8671

IMG_8670

IMG_8672

IMG_8674

IMG_8675

IMG_8680

IMG_8678

IMG_8659

Just the facts:

What: A 18th century jacket and skirt.

Pattern: The jacket is my own draft (yellow Caraco jacket), and the skirt is just two rectangles stitched together.

Fabric & Notions: Skirt – 2,2 m plaid wool, thread and hook & bar.
The bodice: 1 m beige(left over) wool, 1,5 m white cotton for lining and interning, m cotton cord, thread, buttonhole thread, 60 cm plastic boning.

Cost: Everything came from stash but 300 sek would be a fair calculation.

Time: Pretty fast for a complete hand made costume – about 20-25 hours for the whole outfit.

Final thoughts: I really like this outfit. It’s warm and cosy and I really enjoyed wearing it for the photoshoot.

The “Outlander” outfit:IMG_8652

IMG_8655

Outlander dress inspiration

This past year I’ve followed the fenomen of “Outlander” with interest.

I’ve watched the series, read the analysis and discussions about the costumes, and smiled at the world wide drooling over Sam Heughan.
And of course admired all the fabulous recreations of the clothing’s from the show.

But it wasn’t until recently I found myself dreaming of my very own highlander/Clare costume.
It started late august.
I was going through my fabric stash for some creative impulses, when I found a piece of lovely plaid wool, in shades of dark green and navy, that might be just enough for a full skirt.
And there, right beside, a piece of perfectly matching left over beige wool that wouldn’t be enough for anything more then a small jacket, perhaps 18th century…
Yep, you see where I’m going here.

So onto Pinterest I went:

75a7323912e4de7107946380a830928a

cb93913f6ddc3adbef19657f55ebcb87

992a16cec391166827d7cfeadaf8ee1e

510e3ad8a7aa6af75e207b7f05fceccc

10ecaeb7ed33b3ab4d5918ed0ec2efac

4e6ae8e3049bfa54c904ba928273d8c1

b9acc980b609c9baeba2b23e70ca7cfc

fb68ea339c32e29bdb66e9f0090e1c0e

4714dc59393b6c63c5000f447531e4c3

355cff34b471477934399d8c8a14a566One of few back views

113df6a2fa677ee4eb31bb5ccaf5f374Close-up showing the hooks and bars that keeps the stomacher in place.

c26db7014bdcad3b3995e84fc3b1a71bAnd you got to love the cosy knitwear.

Huldra – Movie (pre) Premiere

2 years ago I worked as the costume designer for the movie “Huldra – Lady of the forest”, which takes place in the deep northern forests of Sweden.
(you can red a bit more on my adventures during the shooting here: Huldra, Huldra- characters, Huldra – Working hard)

And now it is finally finished.

1622818_608328145912715_701502379_n

The trailer looks awesome:
https://vimeo.com/84141668

(Official movie website: www.huldra.org)

I’m so happy there’s now a final product for all the hard work we all put in.10806415_750945241651004_3810141470368900492_nOn set, shooting the last couple of scenes.

And this weekend there was a big premiere/screening for everybody involved in the process of making the movie.

Which of course I had to attend.
So me and co costume designer Kristin decided to go (and to go in style – putting on that extra bling).
IMG_20150321_110330_resizedBathroom selfie.
left to right: Mirja – who does incredibly nail and make-up arts – cheek her out here,
Fanny – yet another amazing make-up artist, working in both fashion and theater make-up,
Me, and in front, my companion in costuming crime: Kristin – the most fab and well dressed person I’ve ever meet, who’s strong opinions on nature and women’s rights doesn’t leave anybody unaffected (she also have a great eye for clothing and a passion for historical rural costuming).

IMG_58531_resizedI wore my old new years dress, paired with boots and a crazy beautiful new vintage bag
(you can glimps the golden strap in this picture).

The theater was full and all 350 seats was taken, not just with people involved in the movie, but also lots of friends, family’s and professional movie goers aswell. 20150320_200819_resized

It was such a blast meting everybody again ( I can’t believe it’s almost been two years).

20150320_200810_resizedKristin and Fanny nervously waiting for the movie to begin.

Afterwards the director and the producer held a short speech, asking the leading actors onto the floor for applause.20150320_220852_resizedThen most of us headed to the after party.

Many, many hours later I finally got home.
Looking at the sunrise from my temporary bedroom window, realizing I’ve been partying for about 12 hours. 20150321_055655_resizedOps…
Well, it was so much fun, and totally worth the three hours of sleep I got before the bus was to take me home for real.

Since the only party pictures I got are either to dark or to blurry, I leave you with some nice and clear pics and screenshots from the movie.Huldra-screenshots00165

Huldra-screenshots00244

90240001-2048x1113

Huldra-screenshots00196

Huldra-screenshots00011

Huldra-screenshots00318

10955798_781321845280010_4797106052030112291_nPhotos: Marcus Möller

What I thought of the movie?

Well, lets just say it was fun watching it all come togeter.
And that me and Kristin could feel really proud of our work – The costumes at least, looked great….

Huldra the Movie – About

The movie ”Huldra” I’ve been working on is a thriller set in the forest in the northern parts of Sweden.

It’s about a young group of old friends who decides to go hiking in the deep forests of the north. When they arrive at the old cabin where they plan to stay for a couple of weeks they soon realizes they are not alone. The wood keeper sneaks around acting weird and a beautiful lady is lurking in the forest and in there dreams. The friendship becomes more and more strained as the days goes by, and they all decides they need to win the mysterious girl at any price…

Characters:

Nanna – A tough tomboy girl who seeks to get out of her own troubled life and perhaps get together with her childhood love Martin. 1002895_505664986179032_16751508_nPlayed by: Rebecca Labbé (Photo: Marcus Möller)

Martin – The tough ex military who wants an exuse to get into the forest and away from his wife. 2013-08-02-14.22.50Played by: Christoffer L Johnsson

Peter – The struggling musician who loves the forest and the wildlife. 1184963_509133635832167_1734405931_nPlayed by: Dave León (Photo: Marcus Möller)

Adam – The successful attorney who wants to meet up with old friends. 2013-08-06-12.02.30Played by: Victor von Schirach

John – The playboy wannabe brat, who loves to party. 554923_504186599660204_1064193896_nPlayed by: Viktor Åkerblom (Photo: Marcus Möller)

Adrian – the millionaire nerd who loves the nature and who don’t´t mind helping the others out. 558021_510723675673163_1058604219_nPlayed by: Nikola Ruzicic (Photo: Marcus Möller)

Harald – The forest keeper who´s been living in the woods for many, many years… 733807_504185942993603_1398622362_nPlayed by: Hans Muller (Photo: Marcus Möller)

Young Harald – Harald 40 years ago. 2013-08-09-17.40.18Played by: Fredrik Wagner

Gerda – Haralds mysterious daughter. Played by: Pernilla Eriksson

Hippies – Haralds 4 hippie friends from the 1970s. Played by: Natalie Söderqvist, Linus Nilsson, Sofia Bratwall and Joakim Thelin.

Thrilled yet?

No?

Parhaps you need some more pictures from the set…

2013-08-06 13.46.31

2013-08-06-11.56.05

-1SJrvBpo_CRixZ-_5HKPX_Fo4n0Tiij94l9QaLdUZU

1148815_506251416120389_1393733656_n(Photo: Marcus Möller)

935891_505686712843526_1503845062_n(Photo: Marcus Möller)

2013-07-31 18.23.53

7DwNHjjsV96A7pc2EZFYwM2TA34bKbxJSLD20aB9JfU

2013-07-28-14.03.39

1098252_506853796060151_2129442386_n(Photo: Marcus Möller)

579613_504199412992256_1523069517_n(Photo: Marcus Möller)

67667_10151745284890660_1956985005_n(Photo: Marcus Möller)

Still no…

Then let me just tell you that the past weeks I really learnt how to clean blood of clothes…

*The word ”huldra” is one of the names used to describe the mythical creature called ”skogsrå” (forest nymph) in Sweden.

As taught in school (my remembrance): The Skogsrå was a creature of the forest who used to appear to people who was lost in the woods in the shape of an ugly old woman. If the miss-fortunate traveler showed her kindness and let her warm herself by the fire, she would shift to her beautiful shape and show them the way home. But if she was treated badly she would instead turn them her back and show the big gulping hole and long tail coiling from her spine, and then kill them instantly.

Huldra the movie – Working hard

As I mentioned in my last post I’ve been really busy working as a costume designer for the upcoming Swedish movie ”Huldra”.

I originally got the job as costume assistant one week before the shooting started. So I putt all my other work and tasks aside, and traveled to Stockholm to work for a month.

But when I got there, I realized two things:

First -There was no pre-production period, and the first shots where to be taken in less than two days…

Second – The costume designer had no intention on doing any work what so ever, help us or even visit us and the production on set. So I and the other costume assistant (who had no more experiance than me) was left totally on our own.

So with two days to: read the script, brake it down to figure out what was needed for each character, do a budget and collect all the things in time – We didn’t even had the time to panic…

We arranged to meet the actors one by one in the nearest shopping mall, and managed to dress and fit them all in one hour each. And as soon as the stores closed we went back to the studio (or base-camp) and altered clothes, wrote more shopping lists, calculated budgets and tried to figure out who was to wear what when.

In those two days we bought, collected and borrowed almost all the clothing and jewelery that was needed for the whole production.

We both worked so hard, and stupidly thought that the worst was over when the shooting started. But then we learnt the hard way what it meant to work with costumes on a movie set. There was so many things we didn’t know and never would have thought about until someone asked us why we had/hadn’t done this or that.

Thank god the whole team are so wounderful, and once some of them realized we actually had no idea on what we were suposed to do, they explained everything and thereby helped us tremendously.

 Stressful as it’s been I learnt so much about both the art of movie making, and about myself and what I can accomplish when I really want and need to.

Now I will stop babbling, and show you some pictures of the behind the camera work going on on set. (un-credited pictures are taken by me).

2013-07-26 19.14.59Our costume and makeup trailer.

2013-08-01-16.54.54And inside we find (from left to right) Kristin – costume, Jessica – script and Hanna – props and set designer.

2013-08-06-18.02.47Some of our costumes sorted by character.

2013-08-02-13.00.10The luxurious location and workspace in the middle of the woods.

2013-08-02-12.59.36Hanna covering the knives in pigs-blood.

2013-08-02 18.00.27Wather scenes.

2013-08-06-11.50.41On set working

2013-08-06-12.07.54Spraying some sweat on our actors.

2013-08-06-12.01.05Camera crew

2013-08-04-16.10.31And some more camera crew Sofia, Eddie and camera man Staffan.

998625_506237012788496_1035363559_nWhen the camera points at you – you duck (no one even realized the trucks in the back probably destroyed the shoot even more).

1003766_505660846179446_1759526605_nActors having a repetition of the scene while make-up, costume and sound-tech works on them. (By Marcus Möller)

2013-08-08 12.28.21The Swedish summer is not always sunny…

1011242_504197729659091_1388223409_nDave Leon and Rebecca Labbé get directions by Ove Valeskog. (by Marcus Möller)

1185875_510178249061039_1832960159_nViktor Åkerblom and Staffan Övegård on a hunt. (By Marcus Möller)

558021_510723675673163_1058604219_nOve Valeskog och Nikola Ruzicic looks like twins (not intentionly). (By Marcus Möller)

IMG_1511The cool gang (Kristin Sundberg, Dave León, Mirja Mira Steen, Viktor von Schirach, Christoffer l Johnsson and Viktor Åkerblom).

Next time I will tell you more about the movie and the characters.

Huldra

This week I missed out on my so far perfekt score of posting something every other day. But I think I’ve got a pretty good exuse.
I’ve been working my as of as costume designer on this new movie “Huldra”, and it’s been taking every bit of my waking hours. In fact the few hours every day that I don’t work, I’m dead asleep.

It is so cool too be part of a project like this, and even though it’s really tough sometimes I love it and enjoy it soo much.

I will tell you more about the project and show some great behind the scen photos when I can get out of the woods an get too a computor. In the mean time you can google “Huldra the movie” and take a look at the trailer/pilot (which I did not have any hand in).

484075_506282039450660_166628756_n