1490s Borgia Dress – Photoshoot

A sunny day in the end of August my sister helped me photograph my new Italian “Borgia” dress
(Construction part 1, part 2, and headwear).
And here are the result:

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tumblr_lt0cgyMJUB1qiu1coo3_400Main inspiration

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img_0666Photo: Maria Petersson

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Behind the scenes

img_0536Just a Mama out on a walk…

14124103_10210170980372600_1854777594_oHugs and kisses

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1490s Borgia dress – costume study

Have you seen the Showtime series “The Borgias”?
(I know it’s a few years old but I don’t care)
Bildresultat för the borgiasIt’s a wonderful series About the 15th century pop Alexander VI and it’s full of betrails, sex, murder but most of all gorgeous costumes.
As far as history is concerned the show does lack a bit (inspired by the life of Alexander, would be a more accurate description), but costume wise they pretty much nailed it. And it looks beautiful.

Some real inspiration:
italian-venetian-fashion-clothing-16-century-early-modernThe left one is one of my favorite dresses and totally on my “to-do” list.

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And some of my favorites from the show:
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Pretty, Yes?

And before you have to ask, of course I wanted to make my own Italian dress.

After some thinking I narrowed it down to two main inspiration dresses from the series

Dress nr 1 The-Borgias-the-borgias-19420145-375-500I know he is gorgeous but lets try to focus on the dress…

tumblr_mumap5hf8M1qib0lto1_500Lovely light blue and gold coloring. I also love the lacing on the bodice and the sheerness of the chemise.

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6e469769c298f469f20c55f72f55103dpretty profile

Dress nr 2;tumblr_lt0cgyMJUB1qiu1coo3_400

tumblr_mc079qPab21r4sg4ao2_250Perfection

While studying the pics I noticed that they actually reused the dress above in season 2 with a few alterations (new sleeves).holiday-grangier-borgias-tvfash-3-325

I actually think it is pretty great that they re-used the dress. No one, no mater how rich you where, could afford a new dress every day and to newer up-cycle your old favorite styles to the current fashion.

I also got tipped of that Showtime was offering this exact dress up for sale on their website.

Caption:
“Lucrezia Borgia, played by Holliday Grainger wears a sky blue embroidered gown in Season 2 of The Borgias during the baptism of her son, Giovanni. Includes the sleeves later added to the gown.

The gown is impeccably tailored with a full lining. The details are never ending, with each little turn revealing another pristine element. The piece was designed and constructed by expert period costume designer Gabriella Pescucci and worn by Holliday Grainger on set. The dress corset-laces up the back with the outer layer fastening by hook and eye.”00466503-959462_1000

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The Borgias Lucrezia Borgia's Blue Dress with Sleeves

Did I mention these dresses are BEAUTIFUL… 😉

 

Outlander Photoshoot

As soon as the last piece was finished, I took my new “Outlander” costume out for some photos.
My fiance helped me, and I must say he did a splendid job both photographing and keeping up the good cheer.

I’m wearing: My new 18th century woolen jacket & skirt over stays, petticoats, bumpad and chemise. And a modern knitted shawl, linen cap, knitted mittens (which where gifted to me by the lovely Helena – Thanks again, I love them) and a basket for accessorizes.

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18th century Outlander Garb

After studying the various looks of the character Clare in the series “Outlander”, comparing them to the fabrics from my stash I decided to go for the simple laced up jacket and skirt that’s became symbolic with the series.4714dc59393b6c63c5000f447531e4c3

I started by making a skirt out of some plaid wool I found in my stash (which I’ve bought on sale about a year ago).IMG_8618

The construction is really simple, since it’s basically two widths of the fabric sewn together and gathered to a waistband.IMG_8623I used some linen scraps for he hem facing and hooks and bars to close the waistband.

The finished skirt: IMG_8646

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Then I started on the bodice.
Using the pattern from the yellow caraco jacket, only changing the front to accommodate a stomacher instead of button closer, and adding a peplum at the bottom edge.

I used some leftover beige wool for the jacket, interlining it with some linen scraps and dark green wool for the stomacher – all made to match the plaid of the skirt.20150906_105227_resized

It went together pretty fast even though I made it completely by hand.IMG_8629

IMG_8628The peplum being attached.

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Trying the jacket on my dressform.

I attached the lining made from two different pieces f left over cotton sheets. IMG_8640

Then it was time for the eyelets to be made, using a separate fabric strip attached hidden under the boned front edge.20150919_183851

The finial thing to make was to ad channels and boning to the stomacher.IMG_8685

The skirt and jacket ready to be packed for the photoshoot. 20150920_125242

The finished outfit/jacket:IMG_8657

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Just the facts:

What: A 18th century jacket and skirt.

Pattern: The jacket is my own draft (yellow Caraco jacket), and the skirt is just two rectangles stitched together.

Fabric & Notions: Skirt – 2,2 m plaid wool, thread and hook & bar.
The bodice: 1 m beige(left over) wool, 1,5 m white cotton for lining and interning, m cotton cord, thread, buttonhole thread, 60 cm plastic boning.

Cost: Everything came from stash but 300 sek would be a fair calculation.

Time: Pretty fast for a complete hand made costume – about 20-25 hours for the whole outfit.

Final thoughts: I really like this outfit. It’s warm and cosy and I really enjoyed wearing it for the photoshoot.

The “Outlander” outfit:IMG_8652

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Outlander dress inspiration

This past year I’ve followed the fenomen of “Outlander” with interest.

I’ve watched the series, read the analysis and discussions about the costumes, and smiled at the world wide drooling over Sam Heughan.
And of course admired all the fabulous recreations of the clothing’s from the show.

But it wasn’t until recently I found myself dreaming of my very own highlander/Clare costume.
It started late august.
I was going through my fabric stash for some creative impulses, when I found a piece of lovely plaid wool, in shades of dark green and navy, that might be just enough for a full skirt.
And there, right beside, a piece of perfectly matching left over beige wool that wouldn’t be enough for anything more then a small jacket, perhaps 18th century…
Yep, you see where I’m going here.

So onto Pinterest I went:

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355cff34b471477934399d8c8a14a566One of few back views

113df6a2fa677ee4eb31bb5ccaf5f374Close-up showing the hooks and bars that keeps the stomacher in place.

c26db7014bdcad3b3995e84fc3b1a71bAnd you got to love the cosy knitwear.

Plastique Fantastique – inspiration

This spring, some of the most awesome historical nerds I knew posted an event on Facebook called:

Plastique Fantastique!

And described it as a meetup/picnic for everyone who’s tired of the whole “Historical accurate” discussion:
“Trött och ängslig att du inte är HK? Har du innerst inne närt en dröm om att bära den där fantastiska Marie Antoinetteskapelsen i vit glansig nylon? Nu kan du kasta korsett och siden! Klä dig i polyester och kardborrband!
Välkomna till Plastique Fantastique!”
(“Tired of worrying about Historical accuracy? Do you dream about that awesome Marie Antoinette gown in shining polyester? Lets throw away the corset and the silk! Adorn yourself in Poly and Velcro!
Welcome to Plastique Fantastique!”
10931471_10152688327264372_9050406982234957925_n(Yep, the text’s all about ironic, and humor)

Since I love all the quirky and crazy side of costuming as much as the hand finishing, of course I wanted in.

A quick googling gave me overloads of beautiful (if not totally historical accurate) versions of the 18th century.
Enjoy!

Lets start with the o so lovely masquerade costumes:
girls_aloud_-_cant_speak_french18th century Halloween costumes – because nothing says 18th century like short skirts and high heels…
(also, read my rant on over sexulized female costumes here)

images (2)Who can resit a purple polyester perm?

1403sexysuperdeluxemarieantoinettecostum“I’m a 18th century pirate wench” (in gold lame and pink…)

34632You just got to love the lovely polyester shine…

6317955-mid-adult-women-in-18th-century-style-dress-woman-century-queenDoes she have a table under that skirt?

marie-antoinetteOh, that’s one way to use grandmas curtains…

18-century-dress-5875693Gold and bows – what can go wrong?

Then there are some fine examples of movie costumes:fantomens-stjrna-i-rsa_57494828Stage costume from “The Phantom of he opera” (2004) – It’s got extra everything! I love it!

087918th century Velvet and gold through 1950s eyes.

And couture:images (6)John Galliano for Dior fall/winter 2000/2001

And dress patterns:79_1simp_marieChange the fabric, remove the zipper and make he stomacher detachable and you do get a pretty good looking 18th century gown – but for now It fit perfectly for my purposes

Then there are the ones that’s more like beautiful art pieces then costumes:Marie-Antoinette-in-Paris-325What is that marvelous material?

1520797_387418951435365_8312075050876152832_nI just got to have those lips!

10917033_387418898102037_1681442576664186359_n“Mm, cake…”

misssisterrosevioletfacebookPastels, huge hair and heart shaped mouches – whats not o love?

167336_1541549979585_4685664_nSaucy…

Fuyu-Corset-1-bd“Ops, I forgot my dress” (so beautiful)

aab1bdf17a21312e28ca6d57bb422c7a“It need some more height, don’t you think Monsieur Léonard?”

tumblr_mq3nfm701p1ri8bwro1_500Lady in (hair)distress

PRIChESKA-pod-parusomGhostly beautiful. Is that paper?

largeCrinoline pirate

marie_antoinette_garden_gown_1_by_johanna449-d41pqs3And Asian styled Antoinette

a557012d57e6302990b71825d96e6669The Kraken!

originalShip ahoy!

orig-11834371“Let them eat cake!”
I need to try this sometime  – any volunteers?

dior18thcenturyCouture (clearly influential by Sofia Coppola…)

tumblr_n2qpfp8KID1qbukmqo1_1280Promo pic from “Marie Antoinette” (2006)

Huldra – Movie (pre) Premiere

2 years ago I worked as the costume designer for the movie “Huldra – Lady of the forest”, which takes place in the deep northern forests of Sweden.
(you can red a bit more on my adventures during the shooting here: Huldra, Huldra- characters, Huldra – Working hard)

And now it is finally finished.

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The trailer looks awesome:
https://vimeo.com/84141668

(Official movie website: www.huldra.org)

I’m so happy there’s now a final product for all the hard work we all put in.10806415_750945241651004_3810141470368900492_nOn set, shooting the last couple of scenes.

And this weekend there was a big premiere/screening for everybody involved in the process of making the movie.

Which of course I had to attend.
So me and co costume designer Kristin decided to go (and to go in style – putting on that extra bling).
IMG_20150321_110330_resizedBathroom selfie.
left to right: Mirja – who does incredibly nail and make-up arts – cheek her out here,
Fanny – yet another amazing make-up artist, working in both fashion and theater make-up,
Me, and in front, my companion in costuming crime: Kristin – the most fab and well dressed person I’ve ever meet, who’s strong opinions on nature and women’s rights doesn’t leave anybody unaffected (she also have a great eye for clothing and a passion for historical rural costuming).

IMG_58531_resizedI wore my old new years dress, paired with boots and a crazy beautiful new vintage bag
(you can glimps the golden strap in this picture).

The theater was full and all 350 seats was taken, not just with people involved in the movie, but also lots of friends, family’s and professional movie goers aswell. 20150320_200819_resized

It was such a blast meting everybody again ( I can’t believe it’s almost been two years).

20150320_200810_resizedKristin and Fanny nervously waiting for the movie to begin.

Afterwards the director and the producer held a short speech, asking the leading actors onto the floor for applause.20150320_220852_resizedThen most of us headed to the after party.

Many, many hours later I finally got home.
Looking at the sunrise from my temporary bedroom window, realizing I’ve been partying for about 12 hours. 20150321_055655_resizedOps…
Well, it was so much fun, and totally worth the three hours of sleep I got before the bus was to take me home for real.

Since the only party pictures I got are either to dark or to blurry, I leave you with some nice and clear pics and screenshots from the movie.Huldra-screenshots00165

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10955798_781321845280010_4797106052030112291_nPhotos: Marcus Möller

What I thought of the movie?

Well, lets just say it was fun watching it all come togeter.
And that me and Kristin could feel really proud of our work – The costumes at least, looked great….

“Like a clockwork” – My Halloween costume 2014

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I liked the simplicity of last years costume so much, I decided to do something similar this year.
And the choice fell to “A clockwork Orange”

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The style from the movie are pretty distinctive, with its white clothing and braces combined with black headwear and susp.a-clockwork-orangeX

And as usual you can find lots of sexy versions of this outfit online.
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I however found some styles I liked better.67942

a93da64112d1cf2a0dd51b6196d9cdf6Steampunk-version

d01ac2ece62f7bfabb95197ed03de711Love this picture

funniestAdorable kids

tumblr_kvfxx9ExDg1qzudg0o1_400Got milk…

It’s a pretty simple costume all in all. y
The only thing I needed to buy was a cane and some white pants, the rest I got from my boyfriends closet and my costume stash.

mqdefaultNow it’s time to practice that make-up…