Here comes another batch from last years Halloween photoshoot.
This time we are doing the classical vampire in my Edwardian lingere getup.
Inspiration 1.
Sadly I couldn’t get anyone to play Lestat, so we had to manage on our own 🙂
Inspiration 2.
Model: Jessie Lewis Skoglund
Photo: Elin Evaldsdotter
Costume & Concept: Fashion through History
To get some photos of my new Edwardian wool dress, I took the opportunity to use my fiancees workplace as settings and my sister as photograph.
I’m wearing: The brown/plaid wool skirt, lacy shirtwaist, wool bolero and my Titanic hat (with a quick fix-up) Underneath I have my S-shaped corset, petticoat, chemise, corset cover, stockings and black “American Duchess” Gibson shoes.
Photo: Maria Petersson
The night before the photoshoot of my new Edwardian shirtwaist and skirt, I decided I also needed a jacket
(I know – Crazy!).
So while adding buttons to the blouse, I also drafted a quick pattern from “The Edwardian Modiste” by Frances Grimble, which I’ve been eyeing for quite a while.
Such a cute jacket/bolero.
Then I grabbed a piece of soft wool, which of course matched the beige in the plaid skirt perfectly, from my stash and begun cutting and sewing.
It all went so fast and within, half an hour I had a functional bolero.
Then all I needed to do was to hem the sleeves and bodice and to decorate it.
I altered between some dark pom-pom trim and the simpler soutage ribbon in soft nougat. The later won the fight, and my only regret is that I didn’t had enough to also trim the sleeves.
The bolero from the inside – all edges left raw.
I also added a hook and bar to wear it close if I want to.
The finished bolero:
Just the facts:
Challenge: HSM/15 nr 9 – Brown
What: a 1900s bolero jacket
Pattern: I drafted my own using “The Edwardian Modiste” by Frances Grimble as a guide (basically a front + back bodice and a wide sleeve cut apart at the top)
Fabric & Notions: 0.5 of soft light brown wool, thread, hook and eye and 2 m soutage ribbon for decoration.
Time: 3 hours! Such a fun and quick project.
Cost: 45 Sek (6 Usd) – a leftover scrap, to small for anything really, I bought on sale a year ago.
How historical accurate: Not sure. The pattern is based on a actual pattern, but I might have modernized both it and the construction techniques. The internal seams are machined and all the finishing are done by hand – like in the period. The fabric is plausible and the silhouette are about right so I would guess about 7/10.
Final Thoughts: I love it so much! I could wear it to the office right now (I might have to reduce the sleeves a bit first though). The fabrics so soft and the shape is just lovely. The only thing i ca think of that’s not perfect is that I didn’t considered the stiffness of the wool when drafting the sleeves – thous making them a bit to wide. They will probably look better in a more drapery fabric.
I might also add some more trim later on when I find something I like.
The whole outfit:
And since you always need something on your head I draped some leftover fabric on an modern straw hat, to get that big Edwardian hat shape.
Next up: The photoshoot
To have something to wear with my new plaid 1900s skirt, I wanted to make a new shirtwaist (I do love my old one but sometimes (ok, always) you want something new).
And in my stash I found this lovely pattern from “Wearing History” which I bought half a year ago when she had a Sale, and I’ve been dying to try it out.
As the pattern comes as a “print at home” version, the first thing I needed to do was to cut and assemble the pieces. 
Not sure what fabric to use, I searched through my stash and found the last piece of white striped cotton voile (from which I’ve previously made: A Chemise a la Rein, a 1900s pigeon front dress and a 1850s working woman’s shirt/waist), and a newly required of white cotton lace decorated in lovely flowers.
Unfortunately I hadn’t enough lace to cover the whole shirt – I could either use it on the bodice and make short sleeves, or I could use it to make long/full sleeves and ad a bit of lace around the collar and shoulders.
After some thinking and experimenting with the pattern layout I decided to go with the full sleeves and then try to get as much of the upper bodice out of it as possible.
I realized pretty soon the lace was way to fragile and “open” for the garment I wanted to make. So I dug out some ivory chiffon from my stash and used it to back all the lacy pieces.
The result was perfect. The sleeves kept their lightness, while the see-thoroughness was dampened and strengthened all at the same time.
I stitched most of the blouse on machine, but all the work with the lace needed to be made by hand.
Unfortunately I’ve been really bad at taking pictures lately but besides from the fiddling to get the lace right, the construction is pretty simple.
Before finishing I did needed to make a decision about how to end the lace on the bodice.
I could either cut it to the neckline and trim it with lace edgings, or I could save as much as possible of the lace and trim the bottom edge across the back and bust.
In the end I opted for the later, thinking I could always go back and change it at a later date if I want to.
To get that nice pigeon “breast effect” I used bias-tape and a cotton cord to gather the waist.
The inside of the blouse.
I made a combination of buttons, buttonholes and metal snaps for the back clouser. 
The finished Blouse:
The facts:
What: A 1905s shirtwaist
Pattern: “Wearing history” 1900s shirtwaist pattern
Fabric: 1 m of striped cotton voile, 0,5 m of cotton lace, 0,5 m of cotton lining for the bodice and 0,3 m of polyester chiffon for backing of the lace.
Notions: Thread, Buttonhole-thread, bias-tape, cotton cord, 10 cm plastic boning, 13 buttons, 7 snaps.
Time: 10-15 hours.
Cost: 400 Sek if everything been bought new, but since everything came from stash and most of the fabrics was leftovers I wouldn’t say even half.
Final thought: I loved working with this pattern, and I have only myself to blame for not making a mock-up since i had a bit trouble getting the collar to fit properly. And I maybe should have skipped out on adding the second layer cotton to the bodice – It may have looked a bit nicer and softer. I also may have to reset the sleeves without the pleats at the shoulders.
But all in all, I’m pretty pleased with the blouse.
Worn with the skirt:
And a preview from the photoshoot:
As soon as I laid eyes on this fashion plate I knew I wanted it
(and of course the costume ;-))
Jen at Festive Attyre made the most fabulous recreation of it a while back.
And even though I knew I could never match her skill or perfect Edwardian look, I really wanted a similar look.
So when the HSM challenge 9 – “Brown” approached I scouted out my stash for the perfect brown and plaid wool fabric, and got to work.
I drafted the pattern using Nora Waughs “The cut of women’s clothes”
I cut the pieces on the bias, carefully matched the plaid to meet at an angel at the seams.
Matching the plaid
I used some white cotton for the foundation and stitched bias-tape to make boning channels to get that nice body-hugging look of the corseted skirt of this era.
The skirt closes at the front with hooks and eyes, over a placket and secured with another pair of bones.
I finished by hemming the skirt using a 10 cm wide strip of beige cotton for hem-facing.
And that’s it.
The skirt from the inside
The finished Skirt:
Just the facts:
Challenge: HSM15 nr 9 – Brown
What: A 1900s brown/plaid walking skirt.
Pattern: I drafted my own using Nora Waugh’s “The cut of women’s clothes”
Fabric: 3 m of plaid wool an bits and scraps of cotton for interlining and hem-facing.
Notions: Thread, 2 m of bias-tape, 2m of boning, and hooks and eyes for clouser.
Time: About 10 hours – the fabric matching and hand stitched hem took more time then usual.
Cost: About 200 Sek (32Usd) – all material came from stash but I bought this fabric on sale about a year a ago with a similar project in mind.
How historical accurate: Pretty good. The fabric and pattern are all good. Even though most of the skirt is made by machine the finishing are hand-stitched, as it should be fr this period. I did use some modern techniques on the foundation piece. I’d give it a 7/10.
First worn: Will be worn for photos on October 4th.
Final thoughts: I like how it came out, both the sweep of the skirt and the pattern matching looks really nice, but I’m not completely happy with the raised waistline and I might go back to tweak it a bit later on. But a ll in all it’s a nice piece to have in the costume wardrobe.
I love attending events with my sister/sisters.
It’s so great having a companion in this crazy costuming adventure.
Someone who love dressing up as much as me, and who gets the work and planing goes into making an historical outfit with all it’s accessories and seemingly uncomfortable pieces (non les putting it on).
So when she discovered she was free from work, and thous able to go to the 18th century “fika” in old town, I was so happy and immediately scrambled to find something for her to wear (because that’s what sisters do)
And since I was to wear Edwardian we decided that so should she.
Goofing around
The day of the event I arrived at her house, carrying both our costumes, in good time to get ourselfs ready.
underwear selfie
We helped each-other lazing the corsets and button those buttons, and then we were of (only half an hour to late, ops).
I blame my sisters hair for taking to much time, but really, it just take a lot of time getting into all those layers.
After saying our goodbyes to the others, we stopped for some quick photos of our costumes.
strip it baby…
Sis is wearing the newly made walking skirt, a modern blouse, over my 1880s corset and combined with a modern belt and a ribbon for necktie.
I’m wearing my suffraget skirt, modern jacket, Edwardian blouse, 1900s corset and several accessories like a fur hat, modern fur shawl, elbow length opera glows, my black swiss-waist and an 1950s embroidered bag.
Edwardian Selfie
Two weeks ago me and my sister attended a small gathering of historic enthusiasts for a “Fika” in the local “old town”.
Once me and my sister spent way to long getting ready, we took the bus to the location and hurried to catch up with the others.
We all invaded a small coffee shop, and caused a stir in the other guests who (as usual) wanted to take photos.
It was a lovely event and besides the historic clothes it almost felt like an ordinary “fika” with friends.
My sister looking fab, in her Edwardian outfit and Hairdo.
“What’s that over there….?”
Sara (the initiator to this meeting) asked everybody to tell a bit of our costumes and we got the chance to really look at all the clothing and ask questions. Here is Sara in her gorgeous 1880s bustle ensemble.
Yvonne wore a colorful regency gown, paired with turban made from a shawl.
Those 18th century stays are to die for, and she paired them with a great plaid skirt, apron and of course appropriate head cover.
Then we went outside to chat some more and to take even more pictures.
1920s backsides
Both Denise (left) and Pernilla (right) are in my historic sewing group.
And they made their dresses just in time for this event (between studying and exams).
Pernilla also writes of this event on her blog “fashion of the days gone by”, read the post here.
Let me just say how much I love both their outfits, and those shoes! OMG, I definitely need to get myself some 1920s styled pumps.
It was a bit chilly, so we all had our outerwear on most of the time.
Karin is showing her bloomers beneath her lovely plaid skirt.
Hair and hat detail
“Do my bum look big in this?” – Yes and I love it!
There was no end to Saras wardrobe – Here she’s wearing a Dolman, made from a Truly Victorian pattern, with the most delightful swoon to the back.
I’m not even sure what Dan is doing – lets just say he looks great in his red and white self made ensemble.
Ludwig looks as smashing as ever in newly made plaid breeches and well groomed facial hair.
Me and sis in our Edwardian gear.
Warm ad cosy in velvet and fur.
Gibson hair side view
The obligatory shoe shoot
Of course we posed for photos to. 
Fashion from Regency too 1920s – all in one pic.
Thanks to everyone who attended, it was so nice meeting you all. And lets hope we can do this again sometime.
To really make your costume take you back in time you need the right hair.
So for the historical “Fika” I searched the web for a suited hairdo for my sisters 1900s walking outfit.
The answer was of course the “Gibson hair” – as portrayed by the artist Charles Gibson in the beginning of the 20th century.
picture tutorials
I’m not that good at reading picture tutorials, but thankfully we live in the age of youtube.
Using the video it was surprisingly easy to mold my sisters shoulder length hair into a somewhat recognizable Gibson girls hairstyle.
More then halfway there.
And the finished hairdo.
She did get lots of compliments on the hair, and said more then once that she really liked how it tuned out,
and so did I.
While I’m full steam ahead working on the next HSF project, I figured I give you a close-up of another Allers patterns journals.
This one’s from maj 1912.
Two lovely day/walking dresses.
Love the intricate collar.
Some crocheting ideas.
Crocketed lace on dress.
Some simple needlework patterns.
And some children’s fashion.
A really long coat. I also like the strapping golf player in the background.
I think it is time for yet another look at my (slowly) growing collection of “Allers Patterns Magazines”.
This magazine is from Mars 9th 1913.
Three lovely daywear outfits.
Love the cut of this blouse – sailor with a twist. I will definetly make it someday.
Embrodery and knotting designs.
And an ad for a fashionable shaped dressform. “What every lady should own” is the headline. But I do think it is a bit funny that the from is so extreamly S-shaped, and the rest of the fashions in the magazine is more slender straight lined. Guess the dressform manufacturer didn’t quite keep up with the shifting fashion.
Collars and crocketing patterns.
Love the flowery collars, and there even is a litle bonnet in the pic.
The center fold of eye-candy dresses.
Three darling everyday dresses. Perhaps the right one even will work for dinner.
Great hat.
Young misses dresses.
Awsome ridinghabit and picture.
Embrodery letters.
And the final page with childrens clothing.
Young adults/theenagers
Fashion Through Herstory 