Presenting – Fashion through HERstory

What’s really in a name?

For me, it’s important that a chosen name have some type of meaning, and lately I’ve been thinking more and more about names in general (this might have something to do with the up-coming task of finding the perfect name for my soon to come second child).

I always felt a bit hurried starting this blogg, just wanted to get going sewing and writing, and never really taking the time to find the perfect name.
In the beginning I did felt it was a pretty good name – It did clearly convey what this site is all about (fashions through the history of mankind).
But lately I’ve been growing more and more tired of it.

And with my decision to turn this hobby into a (small) business, the importance of the name once more struck me.

Since I started taking commissions, I’ve have several inquires about making costumes for gentlemen – which I’d kindly to passed down, since both the construction and tailoring of mens clothes are quite different from women’s wear, and nothing I feel confident enough to take on (also, I find it a complete bore…).

Another thing I’ve been thinking a lot about lately are the mening of words, and what we’r really saying underneath, just using our regular wording/vocabulary.
Think about it – I make clothes from all of the “History of Mankind”, but in fact I only want to make women’s wear…

And with the women’s revolution finally making some progress (I know they been working tierdless for about 100 years, and made lots of sufficinet improvments to womens life over the years), like the chance to a female president in US, the “Me-too” movement and with the terms like “Herstory” starting to be more commonly used.
I thought it time to start to favour my own gender in my day to day talk.

So when my boyfriend sudgested I rename my Blogg/brand to “Fashion through Herstory” I emidiatly liked the idea.

So here it is – my new blogg/brand name:
“Fashion through Herstory”

Hope you like it as much as I do 🙂

(I’m currently working on switching the name on both the blogg, facebook and Instagram, but it might take a while until everything is completely fixed. Please let me know if you’r having any trouble with one of my sites).

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Checking in – What I’ve been up to

UPS!
I can’t believe it’s almost been four months since my last post – where do the time go?

Even though I’ve been lacking in posting (don’t say I didn’t warn you), I do have some things that’s been happening behind the scene here at my “Headqarter”.

Here are some of the things that kept me occupied this winter:

*My 1,5 year old

What ever did I do with my time befor I got kids – Oh yeah I sewed – a lot…

*My growing belly

Only three more months to go:-D

*My regular work

Working part time att our local childrens theatre taking care of 6-15 year olds on a dayely basis.

*Helping “La Belle Epoque” with some planing, and doing all the graphic designs for “The Officers ball 2018”Affisch Officerarnas bal 2018 EngIt’s going to be an awesome event – be there if you can 🙂

*Working on (more planing then actually working on) my own ballgown for said ball.

It’s kind of hard starting anything for myself due to “the football” beneath my sweater right now…

*Also plotting a 1880s evening gown for my sister to wear to the same event.

Searching for patterns and fabrics at the moment 🙂

*Re-designing my logo and brand name.

Teaser 😉

*Working on some stock items

Currently focusing on 18th century 🙂

*Working on a woundeful gown for a clients wedding.
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I’m so exited over this project 🙂

*Preparing for a lecture incl. workshop on Regency fashion to help prepare all the volunteers at new Regency inspired market/fair.

How do you even teach someone to make good reproductions of every piece of Regency clothing in just a few short days?

*And re-arranging our entire apartment for the new-commer 😀

I do have a lot of backed up posting to do (some dresses which I made last summer :-O)

..just need decent pictures of the finished garments, (and to edit those pics, upload, write the post and post…).

2017 Sum up

And so another year of sewing draws to it’s end, and it is yet again time to look back and count down the makings of the past year.

My 2017 have been a real roller-coaster ride, juggling maternity-leave, work, keeping a home and a looking after a ever growing baby/toddler (with a love for running around and climbing on stuff…).

But I’ve also managed to get quite some sewing done between babys naps and some an-planed unemployment.

Here’s what I’ve been up to:

(And here’s a reminder from January on what I planed to make 2017 and part 2)

January: 

A green Regency apron  For the HSM2017 Challenge nr 1 – First and last, I made a fast and simple Regency Apron, from fabric i had in my stash.

A 1860s Corset for my sister The first piece for her 1860s ensamble, was made in a beautiful light green cotton satin from my stash.

February:

A golden 1860s corsetWhile I was on it I made one for me to in a flowery coutil I had bought for just such a project a few years ago.
And yes – I already had all of the materials for both the corsets at home – got to love a big stash, right?

Re-made my old Elizabethian pair of bodice for the HSM 2/2017 – Re-make
I made the whole thing a bit smaller by taking out the added guesets, and a bit more comfortable by removing 2/3 oft the boning. So much better!

Added some lace to my 1660s evening gown – Not yet blogged about

Mars:

A Regency Spencer For the HSM 3/2017 – Outdoors, I made a Regency Spencer n a lovely burgundy and black colored wool.

A (huge) Eliptical Cage CrinolineTo complete my sisters 1860s underwear I made a Huge orange Crinoline (and petticoat) out of a cotton sheet and some (a lot, actually) bits of metal pipe cleaners.

April:

A grecian Chiton For the HSM 4/2017 – Squares and rectangles, in made a Grecian chiton in an (totaly inapropirate and hiddeous) poly satin.

A 1865s evening gown
To finish of my sisters ensamble I made her a 1860s evening gown from a teal colored curtain sprinkled with silver sparkles (each attached by hand, by me). This gown also fitted the HSM Challenge 5/2017 – Literature, and since I teqnically finished (I made the final touches and added the belt) in may, I say it works.

May: A 1825s evening gown I just couldn’t resist the lovely purple bedsheet when I found it on sale at my local chain store. The urge to turn it into something crazy (like a 1820-30s dress) came soon after. And I just love how quirqy and colorful the whole ensamble looks.

June:
A 1860s walking outfit for my sisterAnother one I’m shoe-horning into the HSM – nr 7/2017 – Fashion Plate, since this needed to be worn in June, but since I found the perfect fashion plate to mimic I knew I had to enter it. This dress is yet another one made from beddings.

A 1920s turqouise colored daydress My original plan for the HSM 6/2017 – metallics, was this jade colored 1-hour dress, maybe decorated with some silvery gems, but once finished I liked it as it was and I decided to leve it bare.

A 1920s evening dressSo I ended up using one of my long stashed sequnied fabrics for this sparkly bit of 1920s evening dress – Which fit perfectly into the June challenge.

1801s cotton drop front daydressI made this dress as part of “Romantic Recollections” Regency challenge where you where asked to make something from the Regency era and then emelish it. I’m really happy about how it turned ot and the matching bag (where I tried my hand at silk embroidery for the first time) is one of my favourites.

July:
July was the month where I really started working on some stock items for my business. In a few weeks I finished several Regency dresses (tweaking the pattern as I went). Unfortuanly I haven’t have the time to blog about them yet, and not all have proper photographs taken.

A striped Regency Evening gown 

A golden/glittery Regency evening “skirt” (to be added to any plain dress)

A dotted Regency evening gown

A red/white flowery Regency Daydress

A blue/white striped Regency Daydress (no photos yet)

August:

A Pink/white Robe a la FrancaiseI started this project about 3 years ago and finally took the time to finish it this summer, and I’m so happy I did. It’s so joyfully over the top that it fit perfect for the HSM 8/2017 – Ridicuolus.

A Green Cotton Regency Pelisee (No other photos yet)

a complete re-make of my old Spring Anglaise I’m so happy how this dress turned from something “Not even worth selling” to “I’m keeping this one for me”.

September:

A 1690s MantuaYet another “over the top” dress, this time for the HSM 9/2017 – Seen on Screen. I made this dress to wear at an Baroque ball tis fall, but once my planes fell through I still managed to get it finished in time for the HSM.

Oktober:

Regency menswear (No photos yet)Both to challenge myself for the HSM 10/2017 – Out of Your Comfort zone, and to add another few pieces to my ever growing stock, I made 3 Regency Wests and 1 Pair of pantalons.

November:

A 1920s Cocoon coat (no photos yet)For a friends 1920s themed Halloween-party, I made a black velvet skirt and a blue/black ribbed Cocoon coat, which sadly never got worn due to my whole family getting sick with the flu.

A Purple Regency “Train” (awaiting better pictures)For my dance teams annual Regency ball I updated my old evening gown with some gold leafs and added a Court train (cut short for dancing).

December :
A Burgundy 1450s Burgundian gown (Still in process)
hopefully finished by the new year mark…

I’ve also made a ton of kids-clothes.
Mostly T-shirts and soft pants, but also a few hats, pajamas and warm (water-resistant) pants for outside play. The first batch of long and short sleeved T-shirts for my little boy.

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Phew, that was that 😀

Wow, this year I’ve been really productive (If I might say so myself ;-))
It’s so unrealistic seeing it all in a row like this – you might think I never do anything other then sew.
But thanks to a really nice kid (who sleeps like, well, a child) and some lesser work load then usual I, counted to about 3 hours of un-interupted sewing timme each day (some days a lot more).

Did you find the time (and energy) to make what you wanted this year?

2017 – Planing Ahead

As we go deeper into January 2017, its time to plan this years sewing.

Yay!

This year I did things a little differently then usual (where I just pic ALL the things), because having a small baby really eats away of your sewing time 😉
So, this year I picked All the things I want to sew..

…and then I removed half of them.
All costumes with lots of pieces/decorations/complicated (and time consuming) elements had to go. Sorry, Not sorry.

Then I took a hard and “realistic” (yeah right) look at what was manageable with approx 1-3 hours sewing a week (more, if I could use nap time at its fullest but that’s hardly likely).

Then I took a look at my stash (because after half a year of maternity leave you really need to cut back on the excesses, like fabrics) and added that account into the ekvation.

And lastly I run everything through the eyes of the “Historical sew monthly” and possible events to come, and tried my best to match everything up.

So, after lots of forth and back, here is what i plan to make during 2017:
(Presented through the HSM17 lineup)

 The Historical Sew Monthly 2017:
(January-July)

January:
Firsts & LastsCreate either the first item in a new ensemble, or one last piece to put the final fillip on an outfit.

8b05963d5ee97df4f28e42f9f5f09e09I begun the work on the apron on this fashion plate back in December and it will be both my first entry into 1810-20s (late Regency), and possibly the last piece of this ensemble I can finish this year (even though I would love to make the dress and bonnet as well).
And for the purpose of this challenge the apron will be the first item on this ensemble and the last ting to put on before leaving the home.

February:
Re-Make, Re-Use, Re-Fashion
Sew something that pays homage to the historical idea of re-using, re-making and re-fashioning.

For this one I have two dresses that I would love to re-make to a better fit and perhaps even a better design.

IMG_2031 This 1780s Robe needs to be fitted better over my “new” stays, and perhaps let out a tad in the sleeves.

IMG_0522This 1910s evening gown needs a nicer back closure, and I think it would look better with the draping a bit more stitched down and controlled.

March:
The Great Outdoors
Get out into the weather and dirt with an item for outdoor pursuits.

I’m not quite sure on what to make for this one yet, but I would love to make either a Regency Spencerempire2

Or this 1910s wrap cape.4208693c640de62d4b97f0ac6ec639fdBeautiful, Isn’t it?

Another thing I’m contemplating is to make a 18th century hair decoration to match the brown Robe Anglaise above. fbac9dca5d32b7a9e85ab39e839c26ea 650e2205c62d97b75a2e1ba7ad3e4a16
Something like these two mixed up

April:
Circles, Squares & Rectangles
Make a garment made entirely of squares, rectangles and circles.

1237560510215538790warszawianka_chiton_clothing-svg-hiOn this one I plan to keep it simple with a Greek Chiton or Peplos made from one/two big rectangles of fabric.

I might also get time to make the frilly 1820s bonnet from January’s fashion plate.

May:
Literature
– Make something inspired by literature.

Also not sure on this one.
I would love to make a new Edwardian evening gown (if some of my fabrics speaks to me)mode1910-2

Or a green Regency day dress (or maybe a Pelisse) out of a pretty cotton fabric I’ve been sitting on for a few years now.5880ee0d1aa5d43db828e03caa587e55

Or I might just take this opportunity to finish my Robe a la Franchaise (begun in 2014)
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The literature reference won’t be hard to find on either of them.

June:
Metallics
make something in silver, gold, bronze, and copper, whether it be an actual metal, cloth of gold or silver, or lamé.

I was planing on making one of these 1-hour dresses from the 1920s in a lovely turquoise jewel toned fake silk, but now that I read the challenge description again I realize that won’t do.ladda-nedPerhaps I can add some sparkle or a nice piece of jewelry to go with the dress, to make it fit the challenge criteria better.

July:
Fashion Plate
Make an outfit inspired by a fashion plate, whether it is a direct replica, or a more toned down version that fits the resources and lifestyle of the character you are portraying.

Another Regency piece I’ve been coveting for a while is a greek inspired over robe like his one.eveningfulldresslabelleassembleeapril1811

For the rest of the year (Aug-Dec) I want to wait a bit to decide what to do, since life and priorities change depending on sewing time/up-coming events or new interests.

So the last 5 challenges will be decided later this spring/summer.

AugustRidiculous 

SeptemberSeen Onscreen

OctoberOut of Your Comfort Zone

NovemberHSF Inspiration

DecemberGo Wild

Here is however some of the things I’m thinking about

A new 17th century evening bodiceelizabeth-capell-countess-of-carnarvon-ca-1665-sir-peter-lely

A 15th century Burgundian gownspinning-women1

A sheer Regency gown to dress up/down depending on occasion. 28187ad2219cb5718f1b8e6e7609ab73

A man’s Regency waistcoatk4202drw

Of course I also plan to make lots of new baby clothes and perhaps one or two modern dresses/shirts for myself.

Lets see what I can get done 🙂

Elizabeth I – Costume analysis

One of the costumes I wanted to make since I first became interested in historical costumes is the yellow dress from the Movie “Elizabeth” (1998), and last year I decided it was time.
The October theme for HSM2015 was “Silver screen”,  and since I acquired the perfect fabric a couple of months before I made grand plans to make the dress during the fall.

Then life happened (Jupp, baby haze), so this summer,when I finally had the energy to once more dream of pretty dresses, the yellow dress was not far from my mid.
And then when the HSM16s theme “Hero”, lined up with an growing itch to sew and grand planes for Halloween, I knew that the time had come, at last.

So lets take a look at the Dress:

(Pictures from “Costumers guide“)
elizabeth-1It’s made in a yellow/golden brocade with a snakeskin feel to the fabric.
The bodice are stiff and ends in a deep point at center front.

ref5The skirt are worn over layers of petticoats and probably a big bumpad to get the hips really wide and rounded. It’s either parted at front over a identical petticoat or pleated to look like it’s open. I think its the later, which you can better see in other pics.

ref17The line of the dress are slim and soft with a flat bodice front and rounded hips.

ref19The skirt are pleated  to the waist all around and opens up at the back. Even though you can’t see it in this pic I’m fairly sure the bodice laces up the back (as most of the dresses in the move has this somewhat un-historical feature). You can however see the sleeves and the delicate buttons (which I later decided to leave of my version).

ref26The neckline is square with a slight angle.

ref31Behind the scenes worn with a neck-ruff.

ref23The dress is worn during the coronation styled with a massive coronation robe and beautiful regalia.

fidm1Here you can better see the pleating of the skirt and the impressive point on the bodice.

2f65df3f3eea3f0f56e60e15cd347accI’m actually not sure if this picture are of the movie original or if its a great copy but i’s beautiful on the les.

english-school-koenigin-elisabeth-i-in-kroenungskleidern-123215The painting the movie based everything of.

Jewelry fit for a Queen

Earlier this year, when planing one of the major costumes (If you follow me on Instagram you already know of which costume I speak) I wanted to attempt this year, I stumbled upon the perfect accessories in an Etsy shop:
Evil-Ogis-GarbRecycled-Rockstah*

Namely this set of Tudor jewelry.
14191863_10210265175087409_1931442235_oPhoto from “Evil-Ogis-GarbRecycled-Rockstah”

Not only did it include all the pieces I ever dreamed of (ok, minus a ginormous tiara ;-)), but you was also to chose the color of the pearls, metal and chokade pieces. Yay!

14215307_10210265175567421_107739505_oPhoto from “Evil-Ogis-GarbRecycled-Rockstah”

There was Sooo many colors I wanted (imagine Ruby red, Smaragd green or beautiful Amathyst), but I finally settled for a ivory pearl, gold metal with a auburn chockade.

In my hurry to order I accidentally hit the “Buy” button twice. Ops!
But before I had time to send an email explaining my mistake, I got a message asking if I indeed meant to buy two sets or if they should cancel one of the orders. Talk about costumer service 🙂

Then all there was to wait…

14203439_10210265181327565_285637099_o …for the package.

It arrived in a lovely box14233846_10210265177007457_1855676599_o

with all my Tudor goodies insideimg_0734

img_0737Pretty!

Lets take a closer look:

Bust piece:img_0722This was the piece that I coveted most of them all. And it looks exactly as I imaged.

img_0725Lovely pendant at the center.

Girdle:
img_0727It have a chain in back for size adjustments which is really smart. My only wish is for the hanging front piece to be a little bit longer, like you see in portraits of the time, but I get that that would give it another price.

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Necklace:img_0717

Earings:img_0712

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The complete set:
img_0707You could never wear to much jewelry, right?

I’m so pleased with the set and love the color and quality of all the pieces. And think hey look great and really authentic for the period.
And just the other day I took them for a real test drive…

*I don’t get any financial (or other) gain for promoting this site or its products, but are simply a happy customer, who like to show things I like on my blog 🙂

Medieval Fair Söderköping 2016

A few days after I finished my “Borgia dress” it was time for it’s first outing – To the yearly medieval fair in Söderköping.

This year I had a hard time deciding whether or not I should go, and if I did, then in what way would I attend.
Because of the new baby…
The first thing I needed to decide was If I should go at all, and should I then take him with me?
And If I took him, should I breastfeed or give him the bottle (this is the million dollar question when it comes to clothing decision), and would it be better to wear something old and easy to wash (because, baby spit) instead of my new princess gown?

I had three dresses that I could wear to the event:

1. Italian renaissance
img_0504Pros:
New dress!
Never worn
Soo pretty

Cons:
“Booberella”
Difficult to wash and thous breastfeed in
Never worn….

2. Medieval Cote
IMG_3663Pros:
Comfortable and opportunity to wear a whimple
Perfect for the Fairs time period
Easy to breastfeed in
Well tested and trusted

Cons:
Thick wool = super hot
Difficult to wash
Worn a lot

3. Tudor Peasantsidan-solPros:
Easy to wear
Easy to wash and to breastfeed in
Cons:
Simple on the verge to boring

In the end the choosing was made easy by my boyfriend insisting he take the baby for the day and I go alone (well not alone, my sister was to come to).
This was to be the longest time away from Charlie I ever been, so lets just say I was les then focused when dressing in my gown (New Borgia gown for the win, because – New dress :-)) and kissing my boys goodbye.

img_0919The familiar scenery of Söderköping.

We meet up with the dance team and participated in the show (with only a handful of on-lookers)img_0890

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img_0900I really need to do something about that neckline (or work a bit more on my posture)…

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img_0913Ha ha, love this picture.
Some people do take the dancing a lot more serious 😀

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After the dance recital me and my sister took a walk around the market.

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img_0922Mmmm fabric….

We also took a few minutes to take some pictures by the big church (while trying our best to ignore the other visitors taking our picture).

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14689770_10210697130606027_928742329_oMedieval selfie 🙂

Before heading hoe we did a pit-stop at the fabulous fabric store, where I got lots and lots of cute baby fabrics.

1490s Borgia dress – Construction part 2 – Finishing

And here comes the second part on the construction of my “Borgia” dress (part 1)

tumblr_mc079qPab21r4sg4ao2_250The Main inspiration

As a new mom the time for sewing is a bit more restricted then before, but when the urge to create gets to overwhelming you sometimes need to do what ever needed to get the itch satisfied.  
14203599_10210265181927580_1854767540_o#multitaskingmom
He actually falls right asleep once carried, whether I’m handsewing or using the machine.

Starting where we left of, finished the skirt, sleeves and assembled the bodice I hated the dress. I was so frustrated I left it on the dressform several days before I got the energy to tackle it again.14191394_10210265180927555_1142277737_oBy then I’ve convinced myself that once finished it would look much better then limp and sad on my dressform. I also hoped the proportions would look much better on me then on the form.

So carry on I did, marking the lacing holes.
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14215727_10210265181247563_2038233614_oHm, what color to use…

img_0345Right side finished with lacing holes and trim.

Once the lacing was finished I stitched the sides of the bodice together and then it was time to put it on to14191493_10210265181287564_429470907_o img_0350
The fit is almost perfect (if you ignore the ridiculous low neckline).

The small lacing holes I’ve made needed a thin and delicate lace – one which would not hold the preasure of my not so small bust. So I added some lacing rings and a cotton cord (to be hidden beneath the stomacher) to take the stress of the pretty golden laces.img_0377

Then I added the lining to the bodice, fixed the front clouser, finished the edges of all the little laces (sooo many laces and lacing holes) and hemmed the skirt.img_0382

And that was that 🙂

The finished Dress
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Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 1/2016 Procrastination – I’ve been wanted to make this dress for  long time, but only now (summer 2016) got around to make it.

What: A 1490s Italian Dress inspired by the TV-series “The Borgias”

Pattern: I drafted my own, using “The tudor tailor” for reference on the bodice.

Fabric: 4 m light blue satin (1 m wide) 1,5 m striped brocade, 0,5 m white cotton for lining and interlining.

Notions: Thread, buttonhole thread, 6 m silvery ribbon, 3 m golden ribbon for front lacing, 3 m cotton lacing for internal lacing, 12 lacing rings, 2 m plastic boning, 0,5 m steel boning, 4 m blue furniture braid for decoration.

How historical accurate: Not that much I’m afraid. The fabric are all modern (polyester) and the sewing and construction was made using modern techniques and sewing machine. the style of dress itself are plausible but probably borderline fantasy. I must admit I’m not that knowing on this specific period. Maybe 5/10

Time: Way to long – I would guess about 20 hours over the course of 1,5 month, working in small batches of maximum 1 hour at the time.

Cost: About 200 Sek (16 Usd) – A real bargain! It should probably be more like 1000 sek (160 Usd)

First worn: For photos mid August and at a Medieval Fair late August.

Final Thoughts: I actually like it even though I feel like Booberella in it. The neckline ended up to low, and the way it closes in the front are not the best solution.
But I think this is one of the most decorated pieces I’ve ever made, and think it looks great.

Announcing the Winner…

To celebrate another year of blogging and getting lots of new followers, I wanted to give someting back to you all (or at least one of you😉) by hosting a giveaway (ending September 7).

And after meticolus consideration, no I’m kidding, I just pulled one name out of a ball.

The winner are:

Gabriella Salvador

(Who also run the faboulus blog pourlavictoire – go check it out)

Congratulation to your new fan!*

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Thank you to all who participated.

Love

Åsa

*Gabriella – It would be great if you could email me your shipping adress (asasomnasodesign@hotmail.com), and I will make sure to post the fan first chance I get. 

Thank you! 😀