hats – Fashion Through Herstory

Regency Headwear – Riding bonnet/helmet/?

Published on March 29, 2017March 28, 2017 by fashionthrougherstory5 Comments

While working on my recently finished Regency spencer, I also decided I (of course) needed the headdress the lady in my inspirational picture is wearing.

Looking pretty awesome, right?

Starting with a modern wool hat I got on sale from one of the leading fashion stores, I begun my hat making adventure.

Before

I stated by removing the inner stay band and completely soaking the hat in hot water.

Then I used force and even more hot water to shape it in a somewhat oblong shape. In short supply of proper hat making equipment you got to use what you got…

When dry the hat had a rough but much better shape then before. The brown ribbon is pinned on, to hold the brim in while the hat dried.

The shape after the first round.

Once dry, it was time to cut the shape of the bonnet. Roughly drawn markings on where to cut the brim down.

Looks pretty decent, but the brim was still to wavy to work.

So I got to work steaming the brim and shaping it using my hands and a plastic bowl

Much better.

Then I re-stitched the inside stay-ribbon

using orange thread – ops…

Lastly I added some bias cut scraps of the spencers red wool to make the bonnet look even more like the inspiration.

I also remembered (even though it really was in the nick of time) to add some millinery wire to the brim to help it keep its shape. I finished the hole thing of by adding a woolen chokade and a cotton neck tie.

The finished bonnet:

Complete outfit

The facts:

What: a 1805s riding bonnet

Pattern: None,just a re-shaped and cut hat.

Fabric & notions: 1 black wool hat, thread, scraps of red wool and black cotton, 20 cm millinery wire, 1 hook & eye and one gold button.

Time & cost: Not including the time it took to dry, I’d say about 3-4 hours. The only thing I bought anew was ten hat and it cost 35 Sek (3 Usd), the rest is scraps.

Final thoughts: I’m really happy of how it came out, and I think I looks smashing. But I must admit it looks a bit like a combination of a riding helmet and a truckers hat 🙂

Regency Apron – Photoshoot

Published on January 29, 2017 by fashionthrougherstory8 Comments

For the photos of my new apron I wanted to try to copy the inspiration print s much as possible, and since I haven’t made the rest of the outfit, I picked some pieces from my existing costume wardrobe that would some what give the right look.

I’m wearing my white regency evening gown, regency stays, cap, fichu, mittens and a few different hats and bonnets (like my green silk 1860s, brown velvet 1840s) for props.

Behind the scenes

1860s blue/white hat

Published on June 1, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

Wise from my previous try at millinery, I ordered a pattern without even trying to draft my own for my sister 1860s hat. Lynn McMasters “1860s summer hat”

I drafted and cut the pattern for a medium sized hat and got to work on the buckram.

Stitching the millinery wire to the buckram.

Then I taped and sewed the top and side piece together by hand.

I covered the edges with bias tape.

Then it was time to cut the fabric.
Knowing my sisters fondness for blue, and having just recently finished my 18th century Redingote in a lovely blue wool, I decided to use the scraps for her hat.
Cutting the wool.

I also cut the pieces in cotton thin bathing for interlining, and white linen for lining.left to right: Buckram, bathing, blue wool, pattern piece and linen lining.

I carefully covered the buckram base with first bathing and then wool.

Then it was time for the lining. The piece underneath the brim was pleated, pinned and stitched on.

And the crown part was covered in two steps – first the top, and then the sides.

Then I stitched the brim and the crown part together.

And flipped it over to sew the lining together.

The finished (un-trimmed) hat:

But no hat is complete without some decoration…

I cut stripes of white chiffon to put on the hat. Looking pretty good.

I also wanted to ad a lace veil… ..But decided not to since it looked so stupid, and I doubt my sister would want to wear it like that.

I pinned and sewed the chiffon to the hat in a shape of a bow with long tails.
To get some more interest to the look, I also added a bit of lace to the bow.

And that was that.

The finished hat

The facts:

What: a 1860s hat

Pattern: Lynn McMasters 1860s summer hat

Fabric & Notions: scraps of blue wool, white linnen and cotton bathing, 30cm buckram, 2m millenery wire, thread, 30cm polyester chiffong and 10cm polyester lace for decoration.

Time: About 20 hours.

Cost: ca 200 Sek (32 Usd) – all fabric from stash.

Final thoughts: I think it look really good and I hope my sister likes it – because I do.

1860s (ish) women hats – Inspiration

Published on May 30, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

For my sisters 1860s headwear, I wanted to try something new, and found the chick little hat used outdoors in summer.

Perfect.
Just to decide on which style to make…

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The Start of a war – Downton Marys style – Photoshoot

Published on May 8, 2015May 8, 2015 by fashionthrougherstory8 Comments

Last Sunday I took the chance to both see my sister, and to do a little photoshoot of my new striped Lady Mary/”Downton Abby” Dress (read about it here (Part 1) and here (Part 2)) The weather was warm but a bit cloudy, so unfortunately we didn’t get any sunny pictures. I wore my dress with my long line 1910s corset, Autumn garden hat, American Duchess Gibson shoes, stockings, a thin petticoat, and a few bits and pieces like crocheted gloves, antique velvet bag and long pearl necklace.

Photo: Elin Evaldsdottra

The Start of a war – Downton Mary’s Autumn Flowery Hat

Published on May 6, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

Before I could call it a day and be finished with the Striped Lady Mary dress (part 1 & part 2) I needed to make the most vital (and biggest) of her accessorizes – The hat.

The Hat Lady Mary wears in the series are huge and awesome – of course I needed one just like it.

I started with a cheap straw hat as a base.

The most important things I needed from the hat was a straw base, lightly colored and strong enough to carry all the decoration.

I stitched the netting irregularly and random to the brim of the hat.

For the flowers I visited E-bay before Easter and ordered tree silk flower bouquets in muted brown, beige and violet colors, and the arrived in perfect time a week ago.

I needed to cut the flowers from the stems on each of the bouquets, but that went really easy and fast using a nippers, and then they were ready to be attached.

I placed a few flowers on the hat just to get a feeling for how many I would need, and how to best arrange them to get the flowing organic look of the original.

Looks pretty good I think.

I tried to stitch the flowers down but It didn’t work, so after some hesitation I decided to use the most loved (and hated) tool of them all – hot glue.

Then I got to work arranging and attaching the flowers as I went.
It was so easy, and went so fast, it almost felt like cheating.All you need for your hat project: Hat, Netting, Flowers, Inspiration pic and hot glue…

Finished Hat:

And a few pics from the photoshoot:

The facts:

What: a 1914s summer hat (with autumn colored flowers)

Notions/Materials: A big brimmed straw hat, synthetic flowers in different muted colors, white hat netting, thread and hot glue (ops…)

Time: 1 hour

Cost: 250Sek (40Usd)

Final Thought: The hat is a bit to wide in the brim and a bit to small in the head to be perfect. Put considering the shape (and look) of most modern straw hats I won’t complain.
I think it turned out beautifully, and think it fits my “Lady Mary” dress just perfect.

New patterns

Published on April 26, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

My wove not to purchase so much fabric this year, are going according to plan (I’ve only cheated once (or twice if you count Buckram as fabric)).

What I didn’t take into account was the ever growing temptation to splurge on patterns instead…

Since I mostly make my own pattern (draft or drape) I just recently discovered the allure of already tested, well researched beautiful historical patterns. Who can resist them?

And into the rabbit hole we go…

Lynn McMasters 1850-1860s summer hat

Lynn McMasters 1860s BonnetYep, I got some serious millinery planed.

Past Patterns mid 19th century staysBy now you’d probably guest my next big project…

Truly Victorian 1865 Eliptical Cage CrinolineYes, 1860s costume (followed by at least two crinoline appropiet events) coming this spring/summer.

Laughing Moon Wrapping front Spencer This wil be the year I make one of these (I hope)

Truly Victorian 1880s Hat Frame

Truly Victorian 1887 Alexandra BodiceHopefully I can squeeze in (out?) an 1880s bustle outfit as well this summer.

Wearing History Edwardian Blouse

Wearing History 1910s suit

Wearing History 1879 Pompadour Dinner Bodice

Wearing History Smooth Sailing Pants and Blouse(Apparently I forgot to take a picture of this one, so here are one I stole from google)

Another of my recent buys are a drawing/Inspiration book which hopefully will keep all my costuming sketches in order – instead of on random scraps of paper and receipt.

Here I can penn down both my sketches/ideas and fabric recommendation, event dates and what I will need to complete the outfit (shoes, glows, petticoats ect.

I even started on a sewing diary for each costume.

Now it’s back to sewing.

Fluffy Fur Hat

Published on January 31, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

As I mentioned in my last post, I’ve been obsessing over beautiful fur garments for the last two months.
And more precise – fur hats.

My main inspiration.

Russian fabulousnes from the latest version of “Anna Karenina”

So, in the days after Christmas I dug a piece of left over faux fur out of my stash, and got to work.

I cut the pieces for the hat in fur, cotton batting and linen for lining.

Then I hand stitched the ends of the rectangle together,and attached the circle shaped crown.

When pinning the lining in, I realized the bating made it to bulky, so I decided to remove it.
Then I stitched the linen to the fur and turned it right side out.

The finished hat:

The Facts:

Pattern: N,one – I just drew one rectangle and one circle a few cm bigger then my head measurements.

Fabric: 0,3 m of faux fur and the same amount of linen.

Notions: Thread

Time: About two hours

Cost: Basically nothing. The linen was leftover scraps, and the fur have been in my stash for a year and a half just waiting to be used for some winters stuff.

Final Thougts: This was such a fun, quick and easy project. I would love to make some minor modifications to the pattern and then make several of these hats and sell (I already have a few interested buyers…)

Gentle(wo)mans 18th century Riding Hat

Published on December 30, 2014 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

For the HSF 22 – Gentlemen, I had some grand planes, but life happened and the project has been postponed till next year.

So instead I decided to make and submit the complementary accessory to the original outfit – A 18th century riding hat.

Some inspiration:

To start, I bought a simple wool/felt hat at the local fashion store.

Then I drowned it completely in hot water, and forced it onto a acting hat block (a flower pot) and molded and pinned it to shape.

I used some weights to make it hold its shape while drying over night.

When the hat had dried and the shape was set I pinned one of the side up and stitched it on. I then added a length of feathery trim I found in my stash.

I also added a piece of black satin ribbon and a small buckle to finish it of.

The finished hat:

Just the facts:

Challenge: nr 22 – Gentlemen

What: A 18th century riding hat made from a regular fashion wool hat.

Notions: Thread, satin sash, 1 silver buckle and 80 cm of feather ribbon.

Time: Active time, maybe 30 minutes (24 hours if you count the drying).

Cost: 100 Sek (16 Usd) – 79 Sek for the hat, and the rest of the notions came from stash.

How historical accurate: Not really. Apart from the fact that black wool hast were common for riding attire, there is noting accurate about it.

First worn: Not yet, since this is part of a whole ensemble which is not yet finished.

Final thoughts: I can’t quite decide if I like it or not. It may be that it looks to “costumy” to be any good. But I guess I can always add more feathers.

This was such a fast and easy project that I cant help feel I’m totally cheating as the HSF goes, but at this moment I don’t care, I’m just happy to have something to submit as my final item to finish this years race.

Bonnets and a Bergeré

Published on July 23, 2014 by fashionthrougherstory4 Comments

This spring/summer have been quite intense regarding sewing for me. And as every costume requires it’s own special headwear I haven’t just been making clothes this spring – there have been quite a lot millenery going on as well.

And since The Huge Picture Hatt alredy got its own post, I thought it was time to show a bit more about some of the other pieces of headwear I’ve been doing/re-doing this summer.

Lets start with the 18th century Bergere.

You might remember it from last year (when I made it from an regular sunhat).

This is how it looked when I found it in my big hat box, and decided to make some changes to it.

So I un-picked those green pieces of fabric inside the hat (I put them in last year to get something to attach the hair pins in, but it does work better to just push them through the hat).

Then I stitched on some metalic wire at the edge of the brim, and covered it with white bias-tape.

Then I re-trimmed it with a plain green twill-tape.

And this is how it looked when I wore it with the brim tured up, at the big historic picknic.

***

Next up is a regular straw hat that I’ve turned into a regency bonnet.

I folded the hat in two, made a mark where to cut,

and grabbed the scissors. Make sure to stich the rows down before you cut, so the hat dont un-ravel.

Then I stiched on metal wire along the cut line, and covered it with bias tape.I used white bias tape at first , but decided to change it to a nude tone twill tape instead, to make it more inviseble.

Close up of brown/nude twilltape.

The un-trimmed hat.

Then I pinned on some white lace and a big flower brosh I had in my stash.

Altough it does look pretty, it looks a bit too costumey for my taste.

So I re-trimmed it using another piece of lace and some leftover ribbon from my yellow regency gown paired with a black brosch. Much better.

And here is how it looked worn togeter with my yellow regency dress.

***

And finaly a 1840s bonnet made from skratch.

I used the same pattern (and tecniques) as my brown velvet bonnet, only cut it a bit smaler to get a slimer model for this bonnet.

I used thick canvas and super stiff interfacing as the inner layers. And a white striped cotton voile for fashion fabric.

Before sewing anything togeter I stiched wire to all the pieces.

It was a bit tricky to sew inside the hat piece.

At least I only broke one needle…

Then it was time to start the hand sewing. I attached the “lid” and covered it with fashion fabric.Then I stiched on the brim and more fashion fabric (no pictures sorry). And finaly I attached the lining on the inside.

At this stage I was ready to throw it out, it looked so terrible. The fabric was puckering and nothing I did would make it lay flat. I did a final try and decided to trim it to see if that would make it look any better.

It is fantastic what some pieces of lace can do to a domed project. It does actually look presentable.