As soon as the last piece was finished, I took my new “Outlander” costume out for some photos.
My fiance helped me, and I must say he did a splendid job both photographing and keeping up the good cheer.
I’m wearing: My new 18th century woolen jacket & skirt over stays, petticoats, bumpad and chemise. And a modern knitted shawl, linen cap, knitted mittens (which where gifted to me by the lovely Helena – Thanks again, I love them) and a basket for accessorizes.
After studying the various looks of the character Clare in the series “Outlander”, comparing them to the fabrics from my stash I decided to go for the simple laced up jacket and skirt that’s became symbolic with the series.
I started by making a skirt out of some plaid wool I found in my stash (which I’ve bought on sale about a year ago).
The construction is really simple, since it’s basically two widths of the fabric sewn together and gathered to a waistband.
I used some linen scraps for he hem facing and hooks and bars to close the waistband.
The finished skirt: 
Then I started on the bodice.
Using the pattern from the yellow caraco jacket, only changing the front to accommodate a stomacher instead of button closer, and adding a peplum at the bottom edge.
I used some leftover beige wool for the jacket, interlining it with some linen scraps and dark green wool for the stomacher – all made to match the plaid of the skirt.
It went together pretty fast even though I made it completely by hand.
The peplum being attached.
Trying the jacket on my dressform.
I attached the lining made from two different pieces f left over cotton sheets. 
Then it was time for the eyelets to be made, using a separate fabric strip attached hidden under the boned front edge.
The finial thing to make was to ad channels and boning to the stomacher.
The skirt and jacket ready to be packed for the photoshoot. 
The finished outfit/jacket:
Just the facts:
What: A 18th century jacket and skirt.
Pattern: The jacket is my own draft (yellow Caraco jacket), and the skirt is just two rectangles stitched together.
Fabric & Notions: Skirt – 2,2 m plaid wool, thread and hook & bar.
The bodice: 1 m beige(left over) wool, 1,5 m white cotton for lining and interning, m cotton cord, thread, buttonhole thread, 60 cm plastic boning.
Cost: Everything came from stash but 300 sek would be a fair calculation.
Time: Pretty fast for a complete hand made costume – about 20-25 hours for the whole outfit.
Final thoughts: I really like this outfit. It’s warm and cosy and I really enjoyed wearing it for the photoshoot.
The “Outlander” outfit:
This past year I’ve followed the fenomen of “Outlander” with interest.
I’ve watched the series, read the analysis and discussions about the costumes, and smiled at the world wide drooling over Sam Heughan.
And of course admired all the fabulous recreations of the clothing’s from the show.
But it wasn’t until recently I found myself dreaming of my very own highlander/Clare costume.
It started late august.
I was going through my fabric stash for some creative impulses, when I found a piece of lovely plaid wool, in shades of dark green and navy, that might be just enough for a full skirt.
And there, right beside, a piece of perfectly matching left over beige wool that wouldn’t be enough for anything more then a small jacket, perhaps 18th century…
Yep, you see where I’m going here.
So onto Pinterest I went:
One of few back views
Close-up showing the hooks and bars that keeps the stomacher in place.
And you got to love the cosy knitwear.
Even though I could’t attend the ” Plastique Fantastique” event last weekend, I still took the time to dress up for a photoshoot.
I’m wearing my new Plastic purple flower dress, pair with a purple synthetic wig, high stockings, black Kensington shoes accessorized with fan gloves, jewelry and feathers. Underneath I wear my old 18th century corset, short bloomers and pocket hoops.
Doll Antoinette
Photo: Elin Evaldsdottra
The inspiration was wast for the “Plastique Fantastique” and afters some sketching I finally decided on a model I wanted to make.
Jacket/Caraco and skirt combination.
Then I took a plunge down the rabbit hole that’s my fabric stash and came up with the perfect purple and flower combination – all in fabulous polyester plysch.
Test drape to determent if the design would work.
As I’m really un-used to work with stretch fabrics I made a quick mock-up. 
Some tweaking and it will work just fine.
Then I cut the pieces for the bodice from the flowery fabric.
I used my serger to assemble the pieces.
The sewing went so fast and easy it I was bound to run into trouble…
As I discovered at the first fitting – The bodice is way to short.
I guess the turquoise fabric I used for the mock-up must have been a two way stretch while the my plysch only stretches horizontally.
Since I had only small scraps of fabric left I decided to piece it. And to cover the edge with a belt…
Perfect!
I finished the bodice by pleating the peplum at the sides and attached it, trimmed the sleeves with some plastic lace and decorated the front with purple ribbon bows.
To make the belt I cut a strip of the purple skirt fabric, pressed some interfacing on it and stitched it closed. Then I attached he plastic belt buckle to it.
To finish the ensemble I stitched the purple plysch into a tube, a drawstring at the waist, and cut a shaped hem (to accommodate for the pocket hoops).
The finished skirt (worn over pocket hoops):
As the final touch to my costume I bought a purple clown wig.
The finished Dress:
The Facts:
What: A 18th century inspired masquerade costume
Pattern: I drafted my own, using jersey pattern templates.
Fabric: 1 m flowery polyester plysch, 1 m purple polyester plysch, 0,5m white ply lace, 1m purple fake velvet ribbon, thread and a plastic belt buckle.
Time & Cost: Nothing – Everything came from stash. If new perhaps 150-200 sek (20Usd) (wig – 100sek [16Usd])
Final thoughts: I love it! Even though I had some trouble (Guess jersey’s not my kind of fabric) it came out really well. My only concern is the right side tipping of the skirt (and the fact it’s really short)
Preview:
My final fitting with wig and jewelry.
As I finished the cape just the night before my planed “Maids Photoshoot“, I just had to take some “Red Riding hood” pictures to.
I’m the phantom of the opera...
“Up up and away!”
“I’m Superman!”
Photos: Maria Petersson and Elin Evaldsdottra (in the pic)
About a month ago I decided I needed to make myself a 18th century cloak/cape
Love this picture
I decided to use Baumgarters Cloak pattern from “Costume close-up
Sewing Empire made herself one of these too, and writes a good sumary about her work on her blog.
For fabric I used an old roll of red wool I got for free a few yers ago. 
The fabric are realy coarse and I never thougt I would ever be able to use it for anything, particularly not for a garment.
For lining I dug into my scraps bin, and found a dark red linnen leftover from a gown I made several years ago.
The amount I had was just enough for the hood.
I didn’t traced the pattern, but measured and cut everything from memory. 
Then I did the same with the hood.
The construction of the cape was really simple and straight forward.
The only tricky part was the hood.
Picture of back of hood from “Costume close-up”.
In the description it’s said to be pleats giving the “fan” shape, and after some fideling and testing, I figured out how to make them behave as in the picture above.
From the inside
Once I knew how to do it the lining was really easy to assemble in the same way.
Even though the look of the folds in the thinner linen was a bit different.
It is huge, laying on the floor like this.
Finished:
Just The Facts:
Challenge: nr 3/2015 – Stashbusting
What: a 18th century wool cape
Pattern: Baumgarters “Costume Close-ups” Cloak pattern
Fabric: 3 m of red wool (upholstery fabric) and 40 cm (scraps) of red linen for lining.
Notions: Thread and one hook and eye.
How historica accurate: So, so. The colour and look of it are right, but I doubt they would have used this type of coarse wool for anything other then isolation. I did handstitch the hole cloak but i used syntetic tread – since thats what I had in my stash. All in all I give it a 6/10.
Time: About 5-8 hours – it went pretty quick and only took me about a day to finish.
Cost: Basicly nothing – The fabric was gifted to me and the rest was all leftovers or old stash.
But if I would have bought everything new I guess 300-400 Sek (40Usd)
How it fits the Challenge: It is made completely from stash fabric and scraps. And since I never thought I’d be able to make something from the wool I’m extra happy that it turned out so lovely.
First Worn: On Feruary 28th, for photos.
Final Thougts: I Love it! I felt so pretty and coosy in it, and only wish I would have reason to wear it all the time.
And since I do have fabric left, I’m are already thinking on making one for my sister.
The days leading up to my planed “18th century Maid“photoshoot, I worked on getting all those small items and accessories in order.
Here are some of the things I made and used to get the look just right:
The leftovers from the jacket (part 1. & part 2.) I turned into a simplified version of a 18th century pocket. 
Cutting the pieces in front, back and strength fabric – all of which was almost unusable scraps to begin with.
It was such a quick project (took about 2 hours, once I figured out how I wanted it).
In hindsight I should have made bias tapes for the opening as well, but suppose I didn’t had enough fabric anyway.
I also made a new fichu, since I wanted something les fancy then my regular silk one.
It’s basically a cut triangle, with hemmed edges.
I re-used my white apron, but shortened it about 12 cm to get it to fit lenght of the skirt. 
I also used my “old” cap (made it a couple of months ago) paired with a orange/sierra ribbon.
The final touch was to ad a cross, which I bought on sale in January for about 10 Sek (1,6 Usd).
Everything a proper maid will ever need.
Her are the photos of my recently finished Maid Costume.
I’m wearing:
The Yellow Caraco jacket (part 1 & part 2), brown short skirt, stays, quilted petticoat, and accessories as cap, fichu, apron, bumpads, stockings, black shoes, bible and a cross necklase.
Inspiration
“This is my favourite part… but I’m having a bit trouble living by it…”
Photos: Elin Evaldsdottra och Maria Petersson
Here comes the finishing steps of making my yellow Caraco jacket (read Part 1).
After the assembling of the bodice, and insertion of the lining to the jacket, it was time for the clouser.
Since it is was a stash-busting challenge, I knew I needed to find some solution in my own bins. And after some searching I did. 20 small buttons.
Trying out the layout on the pattern, 10 on the bodice front and 5 each on the sleeves.
Even though hey might have worked as they where, I decided to cover them in self fabric.
Cutting small circles to cover the buttons, making sure the purple stripe is centered on all of them.
Then it was time to start on the buttonholes.
Markings and buttonholes on the sleeves.
And on to the bodice front.
Pinning the edges together to mark the button placement through the buttonholes.
Once the clouser was done, I thought it looked pretty shabby, puckering and not laying flat at all.
Thankfully the problem was adverted once I realized I hadn’t pressed the buttonholes properly.
And once I did they looked so much better.
Hard to tell from this picture, but the difference are really obvious in real life.
Lesson learnt – don’t cheat on the pressing!
Then it was time to attach the sleeves.
I stitched them from the inside and covered the raw edges with a bias tape (also left-over scraps) 
Then I finished the jacket by inserting a few plastic bones in the front and back seams, giving it a good press and putting it on the dressform for pictures. 
The purple lining makes me so happy.
Finished:
Just the facts:
Challenge: nr 3/2015 Stash-busting
What: A 1780-1790s working class jacket
Pattern: A combination of the “Kofta KM 25.429 (jacket) pattern from “Skräddaren, sömmerskna och modet” (“the Tailor, the Seamstress and the Fashion”) and Nehelenia patterns nr E21 1790s Redingote.
Fabric: 1,5m of yellow/lilac striped cotton, 2 m of purple cotton for lining and interlining.
Notions: Thread (purple and yellow), yellow buttonhole thread, 4 cable ties for boning and 10 buttons.
How historical accurate: As much as I could, and to the best of my abilities. The fabric and colors are plausible, the patterns and construction are accurate and came from good sources. I hand stitched the whole garment using period techniques. The only thing I can think of that not right are the use of plastic boning and polyester thread for the buttonholes. I give it 8/10.
Cost: 10 Sek (1,6 Usd) since almost everything came from stash and was leftovers from previous projects. The only thing I bought was the yellow buttonhole thread.
But if you would buy it all anew I’d say about 250 Sek (36 Usd).
Time: It went pretty fast considering it is all hand sewn. About 10-15 hours I think.
First Worn: on February 28 for photos. I started the jacket with the intention of wearing it to a 18th century Tavern Event in beginning of February. But as it happened I newer went. Hopefully I will get another chance later this spring.
Motivation/ How It fit into the Challenge: Even though it did not use up a lot of fabric, I think the jacket serves the challenge both in using leftover stash fabrics and notions, and in helping me re-discover all the little pieces of left over fabrics I already own.
I also think the garment itself is suitable as the women who wore such jackets would not be splurging on new fabrics.
Final Thoughts: I really loved making this jacket. It was such a joy how fast and easy it came together, and I think it looks adorable. I want to make lots more of these jackets.
Accessorized and ready for more pictures.
Fashion Through Herstory 