As soon as the last piece was finished, I took my new “Outlander” costume out for some photos.
My fiance helped me, and I must say he did a splendid job both photographing and keeping up the good cheer.
I’m wearing: My new 18th century woolen jacket & skirt over stays, petticoats, bumpad and chemise. And a modern knitted shawl, linen cap, knitted mittens (which where gifted to me by the lovely Helena – Thanks again, I love them) and a basket for accessorizes.
After studying the various looks of the character Clare in the series “Outlander”, comparing them to the fabrics from my stash I decided to go for the simple laced up jacket and skirt that’s became symbolic with the series.
I started by making a skirt out of some plaid wool I found in my stash (which I’ve bought on sale about a year ago).
The construction is really simple, since it’s basically two widths of the fabric sewn together and gathered to a waistband.
I used some linen scraps for he hem facing and hooks and bars to close the waistband.
The finished skirt: 
Then I started on the bodice.
Using the pattern from the yellow caraco jacket, only changing the front to accommodate a stomacher instead of button closer, and adding a peplum at the bottom edge.
I used some leftover beige wool for the jacket, interlining it with some linen scraps and dark green wool for the stomacher – all made to match the plaid of the skirt.
It went together pretty fast even though I made it completely by hand.
The peplum being attached.
Trying the jacket on my dressform.
I attached the lining made from two different pieces f left over cotton sheets. 
Then it was time for the eyelets to be made, using a separate fabric strip attached hidden under the boned front edge.
The finial thing to make was to ad channels and boning to the stomacher.
The skirt and jacket ready to be packed for the photoshoot. 
The finished outfit/jacket:
Just the facts:
What: A 18th century jacket and skirt.
Pattern: The jacket is my own draft (yellow Caraco jacket), and the skirt is just two rectangles stitched together.
Fabric & Notions: Skirt – 2,2 m plaid wool, thread and hook & bar.
The bodice: 1 m beige(left over) wool, 1,5 m white cotton for lining and interning, m cotton cord, thread, buttonhole thread, 60 cm plastic boning.
Cost: Everything came from stash but 300 sek would be a fair calculation.
Time: Pretty fast for a complete hand made costume – about 20-25 hours for the whole outfit.
Final thoughts: I really like this outfit. It’s warm and cosy and I really enjoyed wearing it for the photoshoot.
The “Outlander” outfit:
This past year I’ve followed the fenomen of “Outlander” with interest.
I’ve watched the series, read the analysis and discussions about the costumes, and smiled at the world wide drooling over Sam Heughan.
And of course admired all the fabulous recreations of the clothing’s from the show.
But it wasn’t until recently I found myself dreaming of my very own highlander/Clare costume.
It started late august.
I was going through my fabric stash for some creative impulses, when I found a piece of lovely plaid wool, in shades of dark green and navy, that might be just enough for a full skirt.
And there, right beside, a piece of perfectly matching left over beige wool that wouldn’t be enough for anything more then a small jacket, perhaps 18th century…
Yep, you see where I’m going here.
So onto Pinterest I went:
One of few back views
Close-up showing the hooks and bars that keeps the stomacher in place.
And you got to love the cosy knitwear.
Even though I could’t attend the ” Plastique Fantastique” event last weekend, I still took the time to dress up for a photoshoot.
I’m wearing my new Plastic purple flower dress, pair with a purple synthetic wig, high stockings, black Kensington shoes accessorized with fan gloves, jewelry and feathers. Underneath I wear my old 18th century corset, short bloomers and pocket hoops.
Doll Antoinette
Photo: Elin Evaldsdottra
The inspiration was wast for the “Plastique Fantastique” and afters some sketching I finally decided on a model I wanted to make.
Jacket/Caraco and skirt combination.
Then I took a plunge down the rabbit hole that’s my fabric stash and came up with the perfect purple and flower combination – all in fabulous polyester plysch.
Test drape to determent if the design would work.
As I’m really un-used to work with stretch fabrics I made a quick mock-up. 
Some tweaking and it will work just fine.
Then I cut the pieces for the bodice from the flowery fabric.
I used my serger to assemble the pieces.
The sewing went so fast and easy it I was bound to run into trouble…
As I discovered at the first fitting – The bodice is way to short.
I guess the turquoise fabric I used for the mock-up must have been a two way stretch while the my plysch only stretches horizontally.
Since I had only small scraps of fabric left I decided to piece it. And to cover the edge with a belt…
Perfect!
I finished the bodice by pleating the peplum at the sides and attached it, trimmed the sleeves with some plastic lace and decorated the front with purple ribbon bows.
To make the belt I cut a strip of the purple skirt fabric, pressed some interfacing on it and stitched it closed. Then I attached he plastic belt buckle to it.
To finish the ensemble I stitched the purple plysch into a tube, a drawstring at the waist, and cut a shaped hem (to accommodate for the pocket hoops).
The finished skirt (worn over pocket hoops):
As the final touch to my costume I bought a purple clown wig.
The finished Dress:
The Facts:
What: A 18th century inspired masquerade costume
Pattern: I drafted my own, using jersey pattern templates.
Fabric: 1 m flowery polyester plysch, 1 m purple polyester plysch, 0,5m white ply lace, 1m purple fake velvet ribbon, thread and a plastic belt buckle.
Time & Cost: Nothing – Everything came from stash. If new perhaps 150-200 sek (20Usd) (wig – 100sek [16Usd])
Final thoughts: I love it! Even though I had some trouble (Guess jersey’s not my kind of fabric) it came out really well. My only concern is the right side tipping of the skirt (and the fact it’s really short)
Preview:
My final fitting with wig and jewelry.
This spring, some of the most awesome historical nerds I knew posted an event on Facebook called:
Plastique Fantastique!
And described it as a meetup/picnic for everyone who’s tired of the whole “Historical accurate” discussion:
“Trött och ängslig att du inte är HK? Har du innerst inne närt en dröm om att bära den där fantastiska Marie Antoinetteskapelsen i vit glansig nylon? Nu kan du kasta korsett och siden! Klä dig i polyester och kardborrband!
Välkomna till Plastique Fantastique!”
(“Tired of worrying about Historical accuracy? Do you dream about that awesome Marie Antoinette gown in shining polyester? Lets throw away the corset and the silk! Adorn yourself in Poly and Velcro!
Welcome to Plastique Fantastique!”
(Yep, the text’s all about ironic, and humor)
Since I love all the quirky and crazy side of costuming as much as the hand finishing, of course I wanted in.
A quick googling gave me overloads of beautiful (if not totally historical accurate) versions of the 18th century.
Enjoy!
Lets start with the o so lovely masquerade costumes:
18th century Halloween costumes – because nothing says 18th century like short skirts and high heels…
(also, read my rant on over sexulized female costumes here)
Who can resit a purple polyester perm?
“I’m a 18th century pirate wench” (in gold lame and pink…)
You just got to love the lovely polyester shine…
Does she have a table under that skirt?
Oh, that’s one way to use grandmas curtains…
Gold and bows – what can go wrong?
Then there are some fine examples of movie costumes:
Stage costume from “The Phantom of he opera” (2004) – It’s got extra everything! I love it!
18th century Velvet and gold through 1950s eyes.
And couture:
John Galliano for Dior fall/winter 2000/2001
And dress patterns:
Change the fabric, remove the zipper and make he stomacher detachable and you do get a pretty good looking 18th century gown – but for now It fit perfectly for my purposes
Then there are the ones that’s more like beautiful art pieces then costumes:
What is that marvelous material?
I just got to have those lips!
“Mm, cake…”
Pastels, huge hair and heart shaped mouches – whats not o love?
Saucy…
“Ops, I forgot my dress” (so beautiful)
“It need some more height, don’t you think Monsieur Léonard?”
Lady in (hair)distress
Ghostly beautiful. Is that paper?
Crinoline pirate
And Asian styled Antoinette
The Kraken!
Ship ahoy!
“Let them eat cake!”
I need to try this sometime – any volunteers?
Couture (clearly influential by Sofia Coppola…)
Promo pic from “Marie Antoinette” (2006)
For some time now I’ve been working on getting a few wigs, to go with all the various styles of costumes that I do. And since I cant afford real and goodness I just got the cheapest ones there is, in order to style them into perfectly historical headwear I will be proud to wear upon my head.
Lets take a look at what I got, and what I plan to do about them.
“Saloon Girl”
Ehm, yeah, right…
I bought this wig for the color, curls and consistent (no, not really).
But I wanted a curly redhead wig to make a awesome “pouf” or “hedgehog” for my 18th century costumes.
Unfortunately the curls are to heavy, and don’t stay put at all.
At the moment it is better suited for a “Greek” styled Regency do then nothing else. But hey I may need one of those to.
Quick Regency up-do
“Renaissance”
The go to wig for all redhead maid Marions out there ( oh I hope not)
“This wig will be perfect for almost any era and hairdo” was what I was thinking buying it.
“This wig have both a sharp part and an awful bang. There is No Way you are going to turn that into something beautiful – let it be!” Is what I should have thought.
I may just use it for hairpieces and rats…
Color scheme: (left to right) “Saloon girl”, “Mermaid” and “Renaissance”
“Marie Antoinette”
If you say so…
My first attempt at taming this wig was about two year ago (result).
I also modified it a few times since then, and it do look better, but I think I will never be totally happy with it.
My second try will be now, and this time in white (oh so white).
After re-reading “The American Duchess” tutorial on how she transformed this style to a beautiful 18th century “pouf”, I decided I needed to give it another go.
I really hope I can do what she did, because this plastic monster definitely need some work to look presentable.
And what were they thinking when they used a whole glue gun to the locks? 
“The glue really makes my hair shine…”
“Greek Goddess”
This actually look pretty decent.
I bought this wig thinking it could fit both Regency and 1880s hair.
The wig is heavy, and the curls seems to be holding up well. Lets just hope I can do something about the curve at the hairline and the small tendrils they call a bang.
I mean look at this – plainly false marketing
“Amy Winehouse”
Baboom!
This wig is so cool.
Ok, the styling is awful, and don’t even get me started on the blond piece in the bangs.
But it is shaped like a “bee-hive”, and have lots of long lose hair in the back…
lets say it together – Perfect for “Pouf”!
And you can even carry stuff in it.
“Ghostly Saloon girl”
Who comes up with these names?
It’s gray, it’s styled upwards and have some ringlets hanging down – Therefor it should be perfect for 18th century styles.
But sadly the polyester ribbon hides a terrible secret – a huge edge, where the top is attached to the bottom of the wig. I’m not sure how I can get round/past that.
“Clown pop wig”
No, I’m not seriously thinking this will work for historical costuming.
I’ve had another event in mind…
(If you’r from Sweden, and like 18th century, but are just a tad annoyed about all the bullshit “historical” costumes out there, I think you know to what I’m referring to. And if you don’t – check it out here: Plastiq fantastiq pique nique)
I have big planes on turning this baby into some awesome 18th century style, you just wait and see. wait and see…
Do you have any favorite cheap wigs or good tutorial to help me style these monsters?
As I finished the cape just the night before my planed “Maids Photoshoot“, I just had to take some “Red Riding hood” pictures to.
I’m the phantom of the opera...
“Up up and away!”
“I’m Superman!”
Photos: Maria Petersson and Elin Evaldsdottra (in the pic)
About a month ago I decided I needed to make myself a 18th century cloak/cape
Love this picture
I decided to use Baumgarters Cloak pattern from “Costume close-up
Sewing Empire made herself one of these too, and writes a good sumary about her work on her blog.
For fabric I used an old roll of red wool I got for free a few yers ago. 
The fabric are realy coarse and I never thougt I would ever be able to use it for anything, particularly not for a garment.
For lining I dug into my scraps bin, and found a dark red linnen leftover from a gown I made several years ago.
The amount I had was just enough for the hood.
I didn’t traced the pattern, but measured and cut everything from memory. 
Then I did the same with the hood.
The construction of the cape was really simple and straight forward.
The only tricky part was the hood.
Picture of back of hood from “Costume close-up”.
In the description it’s said to be pleats giving the “fan” shape, and after some fideling and testing, I figured out how to make them behave as in the picture above.
From the inside
Once I knew how to do it the lining was really easy to assemble in the same way.
Even though the look of the folds in the thinner linen was a bit different.
It is huge, laying on the floor like this.
Finished:
Just The Facts:
Challenge: nr 3/2015 – Stashbusting
What: a 18th century wool cape
Pattern: Baumgarters “Costume Close-ups” Cloak pattern
Fabric: 3 m of red wool (upholstery fabric) and 40 cm (scraps) of red linen for lining.
Notions: Thread and one hook and eye.
How historica accurate: So, so. The colour and look of it are right, but I doubt they would have used this type of coarse wool for anything other then isolation. I did handstitch the hole cloak but i used syntetic tread – since thats what I had in my stash. All in all I give it a 6/10.
Time: About 5-8 hours – it went pretty quick and only took me about a day to finish.
Cost: Basicly nothing – The fabric was gifted to me and the rest was all leftovers or old stash.
But if I would have bought everything new I guess 300-400 Sek (40Usd)
How it fits the Challenge: It is made completely from stash fabric and scraps. And since I never thought I’d be able to make something from the wool I’m extra happy that it turned out so lovely.
First Worn: On Feruary 28th, for photos.
Final Thougts: I Love it! I felt so pretty and coosy in it, and only wish I would have reason to wear it all the time.
And since I do have fabric left, I’m are already thinking on making one for my sister.
Just in time for the last (yeah, right…) snow of the winter I decided I needed to make myself some new outerwear, or rather a 18th century cape to be precice.
So I went on Pinterests and found some goodies…
Nostalgic musings, on historical clothing, traditional costume, fantasy, photography and history.
an exploration of historical costume
The trials and tribulations of an over-enthusiastic seamstress learning to create period-correct historical items and fashions
Make your own history
Regency & Historical Needlework.
My life in stitches - adventures in the world of costuming...
