The Historical Sew Fortnightly – Fashion Through Herstory

HSF14 Round-up – did I make it?

Published on January 2, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

In my last post I counted down everything I made through out the year, and now I will do the same for the challenges of the HSF14, to see if I managed to stick to the plan.
(sorry for the repeats)

In the beginning of 2014 I wrote down all the challenges to come and everything I wanted to make during the year. Then I puzzled and pieced it together, leaving some challenges empty to make room for changed costuming needs and different inspiration.

Lets take a look on what I sad I would do, and what I actually did.

So, did I make it?

1. Make do/mend:

1880s petticoat from two sheets.

Alterations on a 18th century jacket.

Complete: Yes
The first challenge had already ended when I did my list/plan, so it’s not quite fair, but I think I did pretty good.

2. Innovations

A 1880s corset made with busk, spiral steel and grommet.

Complete: So so
The corset was all but finished when the challenges was announced, and I did stretch the challenge dead line a bit to make it work.

3. Pink & 8. Ufo/Pdf

Pink: A 18th century calico jacket (this one depends on how I feel when I get the fabric (which is still in my inlaws basement)).

Ufo/Pdf: I’m not sure about this one, will have to wait and see. Hopefully I can use some of my stash, and perhaps do something for one of my sisters.

A pink 18th century Caraco jacket and pistage skirt.

Complete: Yes & Yes
I did managed to make a complete outfit for my sister on these two challenges.

4. Under it all
A 1900s S-shape corset.

A 1900s S-shaped corset.

Complete: Yes
Dead on!

5. Bodice
I’m not sure about this one, will have to wait and see.

A 1900s brassiere.

Complete: Yes
Unfair since I didn’t had any ideas before hand.

6. Fairytale & 7. Tops/Toes

A 1900s white gown, inspired from the “Ariel” design together with some real pictures, and a big lovely hat to match. I think I got the right fabric for this gown, and now that I got lots of lace as well, I should just go for it.

A white 1900s gown inspired by “Ariel“

A 1900s picture hat, to be worn with the Ariel (later Camille) gown.

Compleat: Yes & Yes

9. Black/White & 10. Art
A 1780s white sateen skirt and the green striped gown in the painting. I already own the striped fabric, just need to find a nice white one for the skirt.

Inspiration Painting

A white skirt and a striped Angalise in the same fashion as the painting.

Complete: Yes & Yes

11. Politic
A regency roundgown. It don’t get more political then that…

A yellow regency gown.

Complete: Yes – although technically I didn’t make a roundgown…

12. Shape/Support
A 1850s cage crinoline to be worn under the 1850s paisley gown

a 1850s cage crinoline

A 1880s mini bustle

Complete: Yes, plus a bonus entry.

14. Paisley/Plaids.
I have two bedsheets in brown/paisley which I bought with a dress like this in mind.

a 1850s paisley daydress

a 1880s paisley evening bodice

Complete: Yes

13. under 10 Usd
I think this challenge can be lot of things, like a chemise, a fichu, a hat or some other accessories. I will wait and see what I will need at the time. But I think it will have to be pretty quick and simple, since the next one will take some extra time.

a 1850s chemise from a bedsheet

a 1850s petticoat from two bedsheets

Complete: Yes, and a bonus entry.

15. Outdoors
A light blue 18th century redingoat. Love this one from “Festive Attyre“, and I do have a pale blue, soft wool that would be perfect.

a regency west.

Complete: No, not even close.
(I did started the redingote for a later challenge, but sadly never finished)

16. Termologi
This one can also be a lot of things, but I think I will do something easy since the “Outerwear” one will be big.

a pair of 18th century stays.

Complete: Yes – also not fair since I didn’t specify in advance, and I’m not sure you can call 18th century stays easy…

17. Yellow
Maybe a regency open robe like the one worn on the round gown for challenge 11. This depends on what kind of fabric I find.

a 1550s doublet in yellow wool.

Complete: No, even though I meant to do the open robe up until the last second. Then I found yellow wool and quickly changed my mind, and I did state that the outcome of this challenge would be based on what fabric I would get.

18. Poetry
Not sure yet, but thinkig of making a 18th century robe out of some flowery fabric I got. There will always be poems about flowers, right.

a 1770s skirt/petticoat made to be worn over pocket hoops.

Complete: So so, not a complete robe, and not in the intended fabric, but 18th century and flower fabric it is.

19. HSF inspiration
I’m sure there will be lots of inspiration in the “HSF” folders by then, but right now I have no idea.

A pair of lace cuffs for my 18th century wardrobe

Complete: Yes – I’m quite a cheater making something so simple from a non specified challenge.

20. Alternative Universe
Maybe some steampunk or halloween dress. I like them both, but are not sure I will be able to make any of them.

tumblr_m9ebbiQMJ11qa0f2qo1_500 bw21

A greecian inspired Regency gown

Complete: No. Even though the Steampunk outfit got finished months before, and the 18th century Halloween gown was planed, but never executed.

21. Re-do
A easy one to do since you can make almost anything, but I will decide later on.

a white regency evening gown thous re-making: Black/white, Politic and Terminology.

Complete: Yes, once again not fair, since I didn’t specify.

22. Fortnightliers Choise (Menswear)
This depends on what the challenge will be. (Well, obviously).

A 18th century riding hat

Compete: So so – This was quite a cheat, since I had great planes for this challenge and only managed to finish the head wear.

– I did to try to get the 18th century riding habit made for this one. Unfortunately it took a bit more time then estimated and I will not be finished for at least another month (but I’m hopefully looking forward to one of the new challenges in the beginning of next year…).

23. Modern History
This one is difficult, since I usually don’t wear “strange” clothing. But maybe I can try some 1930s blouse or pant patterns. Or perhaps the lovely black dress from “True Blood”.

A 1930s party dress.

Complete: Yes – Not quite a blouse, but almost.

24. Glitter
I’m thinking of making a 1920s party gown, maybe something I can wear on new years eve.

A 1920s evening gown.

Complete: Yes – I will not wear it at New Year but otherwise I think I did pretty good.

Conclusion HSF2014: Think I did very good.
It is really hard to plan a whole year ahead of time, and I suppose that’s why the spring challenges are more accurate then the ones from the autumn and winter months.
Even though I didn’t make every challenge according to plan, I’m still proud of myself for finishing the entire HSF14 race.

Now It’s time to look ahead to future sewing….

Gentle(wo)mans 18th century Riding Hat

Published on December 30, 2014 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

For the HSF 22 – Gentlemen, I had some grand planes, but life happened and the project has been postponed till next year.

So instead I decided to make and submit the complementary accessory to the original outfit – A 18th century riding hat.

Some inspiration:

To start, I bought a simple wool/felt hat at the local fashion store.

Then I drowned it completely in hot water, and forced it onto a acting hat block (a flower pot) and molded and pinned it to shape.

I used some weights to make it hold its shape while drying over night.

When the hat had dried and the shape was set I pinned one of the side up and stitched it on. I then added a length of feathery trim I found in my stash.

I also added a piece of black satin ribbon and a small buckle to finish it of.

The finished hat:

Just the facts:

Challenge: nr 22 – Gentlemen

What: A 18th century riding hat made from a regular fashion wool hat.

Notions: Thread, satin sash, 1 silver buckle and 80 cm of feather ribbon.

Time: Active time, maybe 30 minutes (24 hours if you count the drying).

Cost: 100 Sek (16 Usd) – 79 Sek for the hat, and the rest of the notions came from stash.

How historical accurate: Not really. Apart from the fact that black wool hast were common for riding attire, there is noting accurate about it.

First worn: Not yet, since this is part of a whole ensemble which is not yet finished.

Final thoughts: I can’t quite decide if I like it or not. It may be that it looks to “costumy” to be any good. But I guess I can always add more feathers.

This was such a fast and easy project that I cant help feel I’m totally cheating as the HSF goes, but at this moment I don’t care, I’m just happy to have something to submit as my final item to finish this years race.

1920s Glittery Robe de style

Published on December 27, 2014 by fashionthrougherstory3 Comments

I’ve been set on trying my hand at 1920s fashion since the last challenge, nr 24 “All that Glitters”, was announced.

Not quite getting over myself to do the full straight/boyish figure, I settled on this design from “Fashion in Detail”

I drafted the pattern and started cutting the pieces from a lovely black cotton velvet I bought for this purpose.

The skirt are cut like a circular one, but using a square instead of a circle.
I originally planed to level the skirt and to hem it to be circular, but once cut I liked the square hem better.

I used some silver/glittery soft tulle, I got on sale about two years ago, as a second layer for the skirt.

Here you can see the shape of the square pattern, and the finished skirt hanging in tapered edges.

I pinned the dress together and put it on my dressform to get a view of how it would look
– And it looked hideous.

I then tried it on, and the result was no better.

It was around here I really started to look for a dress to buy and wear at new years…

Determent to finish before the challenge deadline, I pushed on and stitched the dress together, aded the zipper, set the sleeves and neck facing, and marked the angel of the skirt.

It do looks better, but a mock up wouldn’t have hurt…

I finished of by shortening the sleeves a bit, cutting and hemming the skirt and making a belt out of some left over velvet.

The finished dress:

A sneak a peak from the photoshoot:

Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 24 – All that Glitters

What: a 1920s evening dress (sort of a Robe de Style)

Pattern: I drafted my own.

Fabric: 2,5 m black velvet, 2 m silver printed black tulle and scraps of black cotton for facing.

Notions: Thread, zipper, 2 hook and eyes and fusible interfacing for the belt.

How historical accurate: I’m not sure, but even though the fitted bodice are un-characteristic for the 1920s the style did exist. The construction methods are modern and the silvery tulle are also to modern. Conclution, maybe 4/10.

Time: About 10 hours

Cost: About 300 Sek (48 Usd) but I only spent about half since most of the fabric came from stash.

First worn: on dec 22 for photos. I planed to wear it for new years eve but I’ve changed my mind in the past few days.

Final thoughts: I actually like it much better now that it is finished, and I will deferentially wear it if I ever get invited to a 1920s themed party.

1930s Christmas dress

Published on December 21, 2014 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

You might have noticed my most un-regular posting this past week. The main reason for that are that I’ve been struggling to finish my by now late entry for challenge 22 – Modern history.

But now finally it is finished, and here comes a quick write up.

My inspiration pic.

I decided to make a 1930s dress using a lovely plaid fabric I’ve bought a few years ago for another project.

I cut the pieces on bias to get a nice layout of the plaids.

The cut pieces.

I’ve started this project about a month ago and since my last update, I’ve fixed some problems and encountered some new.

I took the skirt in a few more centimeters to give it a better fit. Some huge seam allowances before trimming.

So far so good.

I’ve pinned the zipper to the side seam and stitched it in place.

I redrafted and cut new sleeves, which now fit much better (not perfect though).

But what the heck is this!The bias cut of the slim dress make the zipper wobble and pucker something enormously.

I didn’t know what to do to fix it completely, but I ripped the zipper out, fussed on some interlining and hand stitched it back, making sure to shortening it as much as possible. It does look better but not near as good as it should.

I then finished the dress by stitching a bias tape to the inside of the neckline, hemming the skirt and making the belt and bow.

The finished dress:

Just the facts:

Challenge: nr 23 – Modern History

What: a 1930s plaid dress

Pattern: I drafted my own based on the inspiration pic.

Fabric: 1,5 m of polyester plaid, 0,3m of white polyester satin and a scrap of black cotton velvet.

Notions: Thread, zipper, fusible interning, and bias tape used for facing.

How Historical accurate: So so. The look of it is about right, and the plaid is plausible but It should probably have been made in wool.

Time: Way to long! And its a miracle I finished at all with all the trouble I’ve had whit this dress.

Cost: Since everything came from stash it was practically free but If I would have bought everything new I probably have spent about 200 Sek (32Usd).

Fists worn: Dec 22 for a photoshoot. It was meant to be worn for Christmas, but I’m not totally convinced I can pull it of (guess I will decide after the photoshoot).

White Regncy Evening Gown – Photoshoot

Published on November 22, 2014 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

Today I finally got the chance to take proper photos of my new Regency gown, which I wore to last weeks regency ball.

I think I did a pretty good job mimic the left ensemble.

Photo: Maria Petersson

White Regency Evening Gown

Published on November 9, 2014 by fashionthrougherstory1 Comment

For the upcoming ball, hosted by my dancing company, I knew I wanted a new gown.
After several hours on Pinterest, looking through dossins of beautiful fashion plates, I finally decided on a style.

I used the left dress in this fashion plate as my inspiration.

Since time was sparce, I decided to use Simplicity 4055 instead of draping my own pattern.This may now be the pattern I made most garments from (my yellow regency gown, brown spencer/west, my sisters greecian goodes dress, and now this white evening gown).

I also had the perfect fabric in my stash. A white striped cotton voile, that started life as a pair of IKEA curtains.

I started by mocking-up the lining to get a foundation to build the rest of the dress.The neckline needed to be lowered a bit. It is after all a ball, and if there is ever a time to show some cleavage a ball must most definitely be it.

Then I cut the fashion fabric, making sure to get enough fabric into the front piece to get some nice gathering. I stitched the bodice together and basted it into the interlining before I gathered the front.

Then it was time for the next try on.

The bodice fitted pretty good, and the wrinkles at the back comes from my boyfriends pinning me into it (sch, don’t tell him), and not from the back being to small as you would think.

After finishing up the bodice, I attached the skirt making sure to put most of the gathers at the center back.

The sleeves are regular pouf sleeves with a row of gathering stitches in the middle to create a double pouf.

And once again I needed to get help being pinned into the dress (see why I will never say anything about less then perfect pinning…)

Since I didn’t had time to get hold of a long enough red ribbon to tie around the neck, crossed in back and under bust as in the fashion plate, I experimented wit a shorter red ribbon tied under bust.

I finished by attaching the sleeves, hemming the skirt and attaching the hook and eyes at center back.
I also decided to stitch on a ribbon under bust made from the same fabric – something I did at the location of the ball, just before getting dressed.

The finished dress:

A pic from the ball of me wearing the dress, stylishly accessorized in burgundy and beads:

Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 21 – Re-do. I choose to re-do challenge nr 9 – Black and White.

What: A white regency (year 1805) evening gown.

Pattern: I started with Simplicity 4055, but made quite a few changes to it.

Fabric: 3 m of white striped cotton voile from IKEA curtains. 0,5 m of white cotton for lining and interning.

Notions: Thread and 4 pair of hook and eyes.

How historical accurate: So so. The dress looks pretty good and the pattern are pretty authentic, but the construction are all modern with seing machine and bag lining. I would say about 6/10.

Time: I rushed the entire dress (starting only two nights before the ball) working the evenings after work, so I would say about 8 hours.

Cost: About 150 Sek (22 Usd)

First Worn: nov 8, to a Regency ball.

Final Thoughts: I really like it. The fit is good, and the dress looks both delicate and cool at the same time.
My only regret was not to have the time to make/buy the burgundy fabric/shawl that was to be draped across the shoulders and tied below the bust, as in the fashion plate.

Greek Goodes Regency – Photoshoot

Published on November 5, 2014November 9, 2014 by fashionthrougherstory3 Comments

One week before the ball, my sister dressed in her gown and we did a quick photoshoot (in the poring rain).

***

Details:

Greek goodes Regency Dress

Published on November 3, 2014 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

For the HSF challenge nr 20 – Parallel universe, I decided to enter my sisters regency evening dress.

I’ve been planing her dress for quite some time, ever since I talked her into attending the autumn regency bal, but only started working on it just this other week.

We looked at some inspiration together and decided to make something similar on this lovely paining.

The pattern I used was the regular Simplicity regency pattern (which I used for my yellow regency gow n).

I needed to make it quite a lot smaller to fit my petite sister.

The fabric is a curtain I bought on sale last spring, which my sister called dibs on the moment she found it in my stash.

The sewing was pretty easy. I made the bodice and and stitched on the skirt.

Then I inserted the lining and hand tacked it down.

Then I put it on my dress form to make some sleeve-design decisions.

Red or white?

When looking at the dress like this, at the dress form I really hated it.

The fabric looked cheap and washed out, and the sleeves just looked ridiculous. But I decided to keep working, since I hoped the right trimmings and underwear would save the dress and give it some more shape and color.

So on to some more decisions…

White, ok – but long or short?

Short, ok, but should I decorate it? (and so on)

I cut some of the lenght of and started working on a trimming design for he sleeves.

Using some golden trim I dew a scalloped design which I transferred to the sleeves and stitched on.

Then I stitched on the sleeves, and cut the length of the skirt.

I hemmed both layers of fabric, stitched on hooks and eyes and finished of by attaching the whide golden leaf-shaped trim under bust.

The finished dress (and I forgot to take pictures of it on my dress form before giving it to my sister):

And at the photoshoot:

Just the Facts:

Challenge: 20 Paralell Universe

What: A Regency dress (approx year 1805). During the early 19th century ancient Greek aesthetics where all in vogue, and ladies wore sheer slim dresses to copie the gowns they saw in ancient pictures and statues.

Pattern: Simplicity 4055, with some alterations.

Fabric: 1 burgundy polyester curtain from Indiska (120 x 220 cm), 2 m of white polyester satin and 40 cm of white cotton.

Notions: Thread, 80 cm of wide gold trim, 2 m of narrow gold trim, 6 pair of hook and eyes, 30 cm of plastic boning.

How historical accurate: Not much. The pattern are pretty good, but the fabrics, trims and construction techniques are way to modern.

Time: About 10 hours

Cost: I would say about 350 Sek.

First Worn: This weekend for photos, but will be worn next weekend at a Regency Bal.

Final thoughts: I really like this dress (and think my sister feels the same), and the only thing I would change is to lengthen the front bodice a bit more to keep the under bust seam from riding up.

18th century Lacy sleeve cuffs

Published on October 8, 2014 by fashionthrougherstory3 Comments

For the HSF nr 19 – HSF-Inspiration (draw inspiration from any of your fellow HSFs items), I decided to make a pair of 18th century sleeve cuffs.

I found a 6 m long piece of lace in my stash, and decided to use it for this project. I originally had some much more delicate lace in mind for this project, but I couldn´t find any I liked in a reasonable enough price range.
So the white lace it is.

The only problem was, it was too white.

After some debating with myself, I decided to try to tea dye it.
And so I did.The salt´s for setting the color.

Cooking away on the stove.

Rinsing the leftover color out.

When dry, the lace was in dire need of some ironing.

Then it was time to start on the cuffs.
I decided to use two different kinds of lace, using the middle one as extension on the second layer on the cuff.

So I stitched the edges of the pieces together, creating different sized circles of the lace.

then I gathered and pined the pieces together.But then I realised that once the extension lace was gathered into the bias tape, the cuffs would be too puffy.

So I decided to trim a piece of the longer lace to get a more modest gather to start with.The bottom piece are the one cut of.

Then I pinned the second layer to it.

And finished of with the bias-tape.

And Finished:

Just the facts:

Challenge: 19 – HSF Inspiration

What: 18th century lace cuffs.

Inspiration: Erin Lee´s 19th century lace cuffs.

Pattern: none, I just gathered and stitched.

Fabric: None.

Notions: a total of 3 m of cotton lace, 60 cm of bias-tape and thread.

How historical accurate: Not particularly. But I did take what I had at hand, and if that´s not period then I don’t know…
They are completely hand stitched, and hand dyed with natural material. Maybe 5/10.

Time: 4 hours including the dying.

Cost: 50 Sek (8 Usd)

First worn: I hope to wear them on an up-coming costume event this november.

Pink 18th century Flowery Francaise Petticoat

Published on October 4, 2014October 4, 2014 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

“Long petticoats to hide the feet,
Silk hose with clocks of scarlet ;
A load of perfume, sick’ning sweet,
Bought of PARISIAN VARLET.”

From Female Fashions for 1799 by Mary Darby Robinson

This summer, when venturing trough the local fabric store, I couldn’t resist buying this beautiful flowery satin fabric. It just screamed at me from the sales corner, and begged me to make it into a robe a la Francaise – so I bought it all.

And since the this weeks HSF challenge nr 19) is “Poetry”, I figured I’ll start working on it.

I started with the petticoat (since I just needed something simple to occupie my hands and thoughts from work).
Sitting in the sofa, watching old series, I managed to finish it in a couple of nights. But just as I was about to put it away as finished, I noticed the huge amount of fabric at the center front.That didn’t look quite right.
And after some additional image searching I knew I needed to rework the pleating to get a neater appearance under neath the dress.