Only minutes after finishing my new peasant dress, I packed it and left for my sisters house (and her birthday celebration), where we took a few moments to take some photos around the yard – which was the perfect setting for this dress.
I’m wearing: My new Heirloom dress paired with apron and head-cloth/shawl from my National costume, beige woolen shawl, knitted mittens, chemise, petticoat, bloomers and lace up boots.
Photo: Elin Evaldsdottra
Last months HSM15 Challenge was “Heirlome”, and as never inherited anything suitable and knew nothing about my ancestors I had some trouble deciding what to make for this one.
Basically, I could make whatever I liked as long as it heirs from Sweden.
Initially I thought about making another piece for my national costume – like the jacket, embroidered shawl or headpiece, but since time was short (starting 1 week after deadline) I decided to go with a more classic (and fast) alternative.
The 19th century farm girl.
I love this pic of a girl in her finest clothes in front of her home. So refreshing an “real” from all the fancy dresses you see in fashion plates and preserved garments.
Since almost everybody in Sweden heirs from farmers, it seemed logical to assume that so did me and my ancestors.
I found this fabric, 3 m blue plaid cotton flannel, at an online auction site for a real steal of a price.
I used my 1840s fan-front dress pattern and cut the fabric down to scraps, carefully matching the plaids.
Then I sewed the dress together.
I made it all in three nights, altering between the sewing machine and hand stitching before the TV, and unfortunately “forgot” to take pictures. The sewing was pretty straight forward, so really noting to write in dept about (read about my last dress like this here)
I did however change a few things, from the original green dress, like:
Using darts to shape the front bodice, instead of fixed gathers. 
Adding the bodice to the skirt as to make a “whole” dress, and switching the buttons for hooks and eyes.
The finished dress:
Just the facts:
Challenge: nr 8/2015 – Heirlome
What: A 1850s working woman’s dress – As my ancestors might have worn.
Pattern: Self drafted about 2 years ago.
Fabric: 2,6 m of plaid cotton flanell, 0,5 m of white cotton lining.
Notions: Thread, hook & eyes, 2 m bias tape.
How historical accurate: So so, the look and fabric is plausible, but I sewed most of it on machine and put in some modern techniques. Maybe 6/10
Time: About 10-15 hours
Cost: About 150 Sek (22 Usd)
First worn: For photos September 12.
Final thoughts: Unfortunately I do not love this dress. I like the idea of it much better then the dress itself.
I’t came out a bit to big for me, and being made to work without a corset I feel a bit frumpy wearing it.
Accessorized with apron and head-cloth from my national costume
Last months theme on “Historical Sew Monthly” was “Heirloom” (yes, I’m a month behind, but plan to soon be back on track).
Since all my older relatives have past away I struggled a bit with this one, but finally came up with something that would work.
But while I finish things up an get proper photographs of my entry, I thought I’d share one of my favorite Heirlooms from my grandmother.
Her binder from the pattern drafting mail class she took in 1964. 
“Nordisk brevskola” (Nordic mail courses”
When I was a kid me and my siblings used to visit my grandparents every weekend.
My grandmother was such a fun person who loved children and was never to occupied to play with us or show us how to pluck starwberries from their gardens.
She suffered from a stroke when I was about 13 years old, and even though she survived she could no longer play with us, or even make us understand her strange sounds, no longer able to produce any words.
I remember how chocked I was about her sudden change, and my uncomfortable feeling of insecurity and when she tried to talk to me.
I’m ashamed to admit I couldn’t handle it and thous almost stopped coming along to wist her.
A few years later she had yet another stroke, lethal this time, and I remember the emptiness and sorrow I felt, regretting not being there more at the end.
After her death I was given her old sewing patterns, some threads and this particular binder – which I hold dear to my heart.
The thought of her taking the pattern drafting course slowly learning by finishing one homework/test at the time, is just wonderful.
Since I also know she loved to sew little dresses for me and my sisters – which unfortunately all have now gone to charity.
Anyhow, to late in date for the HSM but a nice piece of Swedish dressmaking history all the same.
“Modern pattern drafting”
You’l learn how to properly measure someone.
Drafting the basic pattern templates – Her the dress/bodice/skirt pattern.
Fabric layout’s equally important – in Sweden we call this a “Läggbild”
You also need to know how to alter the pattern pieces, and how to move the darts to your desired location.
Interesting to see the way they used to put the darts between the breasts – something almost never used anymore.
Drafting a circular skirt (half circle) for that characteristic 50s look.
And some more challenging stuff like this fabulous jacket
I also love this kimono sleeve drafting
And who can resist the glamorous 1960s full skirted evening gowns 
Oh la la
My grandmothers “homework” drafting’s.
And at the end of the binder/course she received a diploma – notice the date…
I’m yet to make up one of these patterns, but I definitely will someday – if only to remember my granny.
By now it’s been two weeks ago the annual cultural festival in our town.
And just like last year me and my dance team was there to do a little performance.
This year the theme/time period on our dance was “Anything goes” or “All decades unite” to promote the upcoming Ball with the same theme.
I had some trouble deciding on what to wear (such a luxury problem, right), but in the end I decided to wear my new 17th century outfit. Mainly because I (correctly) guessed no one else would be wearing 17th century, and because I really wanted to try it out properly, to decide how I felt about it (stomacher and all)
Me and Maud
The weather was perfect (maybe even a bit to hot), and the stage had been set up in the perfect spot in the middle of the park, with lots of market booths and activities close by to help draw audience to us.
The performance went well, even though all our memorys was a bit rusty after the summer break.
Lots of decdes in one dance: 1780s, Medieval, 1850s, regency and 1660s.
I used my thin fichu to cover my scooping decolletage from both uncomfortable eyes and the scorching sun.
Between the shows we had a short break to watch the other teams dance, and to take a short turn at the market (where we handed out information about our ball)
Swedish folk dance team
Lindy hopp
The Swedish Polska dancing team.
The historic dance team’s resting in the shade.
Carl and Shakila from my sewing course, sporting medieval and 1850s evening wear.
Maud in er fabulous 18th century Anglaise.
We performed right beside the old cars exhition.
We also meet the mascot for our local Hockey team – I do not envy the poor hot person inside…
Before it was time to go home I got a few minutes to talk (and take some photos) with my childhood dance teacher Katarina.
I joined in her kids folk dance team at the age of 6, continued as assisting dance teacher at age 15, and still frequent the same summer dances, festivals, and barbecues. 
17th century meets Skedevi national costume (summer edition).
I totally adore this woman.
Once home again, my fiancé helped me by taking some photos of my outfit (sans the fichu).
After the day ended I can truly say that I really love this costume.
I felt so pretty and stylish in it, the shape it gives me and the way it makes me feel really petite and like an Amazon at the same time is just so great (sorry, can’t describe the felling any better)
But I must admit it was quite a relief to get home, unlace and put on some sweats…
(I’m curently working on some big plans for this costume…)
This weekend it was once again time for the annual medieval fair called “Söderköpings Gästabud”.
And just like last year I talked my sister into going with me, to watch and help with the dance recital.
And of course she needed something to wear…
So after a week of intensive sewing we were finally ready for the fair.
Sis and me in our Medieval garb:
Blue Burgundian (24 hour) dress, and green wool cotiehardie.
Once at Söderköping we hurried to find the rest of the dance team to get some last minute practice before we were to perform. 
My sister also got to partake in the dancing (even though she only watched the performance once before, (a task she performed perfectly, of course).
“OMG – how I’m I to keep my hats on while dancing?”
Medieval dancing…
Othilia and Maria (sis) catches their breath after the performance.
Since we then had a 3 hour break until next dance-performance, me, Clara and Maria headed of on our own. 
First stop, “Jofotex fabrics” – the by far best fabric store in our area.
“Price the lords for fabrics”
You could clearly see the influence the Medieval fair had on the store (and the well dressed clientele), with special prices on wool, linens, and everything slightly medieval. And the staff didn’t even bug an eye at our walking in in costumes.
A for effort but some what lower scores for historical accuracy…
Once again out of the store, somewhat poorer, (I bought some lovely ivory lace and fabric for a new skirt to my 17th century bodice) we headed back to the market to see everything. We found:
Knights practicing their fencing.
Maria and Clara listening to lovely music.
Knights and horses.
And a coffin…
The town of Söderköping really is the perfect place for this kind of events, with the rivers, cobblestones and old houses it looks so beautiful.
I managed to get some pic of the new gown:
The market place lay beside the old church in the middle of the city.
There was lots of great things to shop for any historic/fabric nerd:
Natural Furs
Colored furs – note the leopard and zebra colored ones.
Ribbon bonanza
Linen fabrics
Silk and velvet
And of course rows and rows of lovely wool.
Then we returned to the place for or next dance performance just in time to enjoy a great band playing medieval music.
Karin and Dan relaxing in the grass enjoying the music.
Sis in a sea of dress.
I didn’t get any pics of the dancing itself (since both me and my photographer was dancing), but it went really well and we had lots of folks looking and clapping.
Afterwards we had some final chat before it was time to say goodbye for this time.
The musicians Lena and Eric and dance master Sievert.
Maud and Othilia having a cozy moment.
Karin and Solveig both looking great in their dresses and headwear.
And that’s all folks…
Last Saturday evening I came to chat with my sister about the upcoming Medieval fair, where I was to have a dance performance this weekend.
I asked if she wanted to come along, and since she doesn’t have any medieval clothes, if I should try to make her some…
Of course she wanted – So said and done.
I made a quick calculation of how much time I would have for this project – with deadline in 6 days wear of 5 was workdays and the only whole day was Sunday – where all the fabric stores are closed. And no I didn’t had anything suitable in my stash.
This was going to be a though one, but I knew that with some planing (and boyfriend away at work most of the nights) I could do this.
And this is how it went:
Saturday evening/night:
I sent her some picks of various medieval gowns that would be easy to make even without to much time and fittings.
She selected a model – The 15th century Burgundian dress, and sent me her measurements.
Picture from “The Medieval Tailor Assistant”
My quick sketch including calculations on time, fabric and money.
(Consultation = 1 hour)
Sunday morning:
I drafted the pattern for the dress based on “The Medieval Tailor Assistant” and her measurements.
Then I cut and made a mock-up.
I also drafted and made a pattern test for the typical Burgundian “flower pot” headwear. 
I tried the mock-up on myself to see if there was any obvious problems.
(Pattern (1) & Mock-up (1,5) = 2,5 hours)
Monday:
I meet with my sister after work to try the mock-up – which fitted her really good.
Just some minor alterations like shortening the sleeves, raising the under arm seam and ad more width to the skirt and it would be perfect.
Then we went to the store to pick out her fabric.
Due to lack of both time and funds we decided on some cheaper cotton twill in a lovely teal blue color, combined with purple for the stomacher and white fake fur collar – from my stash.
The dress should probably be made in lovely thin wool or heavy silk brocade to look it’s very best, but I’m convinced no one will notice our small budget, and if it men the dress is done in time and looks nice I think it’s the best choice to make.
the selected fabric
Once home again I immediately started to pin the pattern to the fabric for the cutting.
measuring the biggest possible size of the gores
Then I begun the daunting task of pinning all the (huge) pieces together.
The back pieces pinned together.
And finished the night by hand sewing the base of the Burgundian Hening in front of the TV.
(Fitting (0,5) + Fabric shopping (1) + Cutting (1) + pinning/sewing (2) = 5 hours)
Tuesday:
When I got home from work on Thursday I immediately started to sew the dress together, pinning and pressing as I went.
The time flied and by the end of the night I had a pretty decent looking dress (thank good for sewing machines and sergers)
The basic dress stitched together
Once the night fell I once more seated myself in my favorite couch to put some more work into the hat.
Adding bias-tape round the edges and covering it with glued on batting.
(Sewing dress together (2) + Hat (2) = 4 hours)
Wednesday:
On Wednesday I focused on getting the collar done to get the dress as finished as possible for the final fitting on Thursday.
I sewed the collar to the neckline and carefully pinned the fur pieces on top, attaching the by hand.
Then I finished the cuffs and attached the sleeves.
I also started covering the hat with black fake silk.
(collar (2) + hat (1) = 3 hours)
Thursday:
I meet with my sister once more to try the almost finished dress, and to determent the length of the skirt.
I love the look of this whole outfit
Once my sister left, I got to work on cutting the hem.
I really wanted to make it by hand, but time was running out and I still had the head-dress to finish so I took the easy (fast) way out and machine stitched it.
(Fitting (0,5) + hemming (0,5) + hat (2) = 4 hours)
Friday:
With the dress finished I got to work on the hat, adding the front “loop” and the lining. I finished by attaching a sheer veil (my 18th century fichu) at the top.
The I steamed the whole outfit, and put it on my dress-form for some nice pictures “finished”.
(Finishing = 3 Hours)
Saturday:
I re-pressed and packed all her garments, dressed in my cotiehardie and traveled to the fair – leaving home 08.00 pm.
More Pics from the Event and photoshoot is in the works.
(pressing, packing and dressing = 0,5 hours)
(Summary: 1 + 2,5 + 5 + 4 + 4 + 3 + 0.5 = 24 hours)
The Finished Hat:
The Finished Dress:
The facts:
What: a 15th century Burgundian gown and hat.
Pattern: I drafted my own using “The Medieval Tailor Assistant” as a guide and my modern bodice templates as a base.
For the hat I refereed to lots of picture sources online this being the main one.
Fabric & Notions: 4 m of teal cotton twill, 0,3m purple cotton twill for the stomacher, 0,3m white fake fur, and thread.
For the hat I used 0,3m black fake silk, 0,3m buckram, pieces of batting, cotton scraps for lining, 0,5m polyester chiffon for the veil (I used my 18th century fichu), 1m of millinery wire and thread.
Time: 24 hours including fittings and millinery-work.
Cost: About 300Sek (48usd) although some of teh material came from my stash so we didn’t pay that much up front.
Final thoughts: I’m so happy with how it came out, And I think my sister also loves it – at least she looked quite happy and confident at the event yesterday…
The only thing that may need some fixing is to lengthen the sleeves about 1 cm, which I in my hurry to finish cut to short – ops.
But the worst thing is – Now I have to buy some nice wool (or brocade silk, oh my) to make myself one of these gowns….
Even though I could’t attend the ” Plastique Fantastique” event last weekend, I still took the time to dress up for a photoshoot.
I’m wearing my new Plastic purple flower dress, pair with a purple synthetic wig, high stockings, black Kensington shoes accessorized with fan gloves, jewelry and feathers. Underneath I wear my old 18th century corset, short bloomers and pocket hoops.
Doll Antoinette
Photo: Elin Evaldsdottra
The inspiration was wast for the “Plastique Fantastique” and afters some sketching I finally decided on a model I wanted to make.
Jacket/Caraco and skirt combination.
Then I took a plunge down the rabbit hole that’s my fabric stash and came up with the perfect purple and flower combination – all in fabulous polyester plysch.
Test drape to determent if the design would work.
As I’m really un-used to work with stretch fabrics I made a quick mock-up. 
Some tweaking and it will work just fine.
Then I cut the pieces for the bodice from the flowery fabric.
I used my serger to assemble the pieces.
The sewing went so fast and easy it I was bound to run into trouble…
As I discovered at the first fitting – The bodice is way to short.
I guess the turquoise fabric I used for the mock-up must have been a two way stretch while the my plysch only stretches horizontally.
Since I had only small scraps of fabric left I decided to piece it. And to cover the edge with a belt…
Perfect!
I finished the bodice by pleating the peplum at the sides and attached it, trimmed the sleeves with some plastic lace and decorated the front with purple ribbon bows.
To make the belt I cut a strip of the purple skirt fabric, pressed some interfacing on it and stitched it closed. Then I attached he plastic belt buckle to it.
To finish the ensemble I stitched the purple plysch into a tube, a drawstring at the waist, and cut a shaped hem (to accommodate for the pocket hoops).
The finished skirt (worn over pocket hoops):
As the final touch to my costume I bought a purple clown wig.
The finished Dress:
The Facts:
What: A 18th century inspired masquerade costume
Pattern: I drafted my own, using jersey pattern templates.
Fabric: 1 m flowery polyester plysch, 1 m purple polyester plysch, 0,5m white ply lace, 1m purple fake velvet ribbon, thread and a plastic belt buckle.
Time & Cost: Nothing – Everything came from stash. If new perhaps 150-200 sek (20Usd) (wig – 100sek [16Usd])
Final thoughts: I love it! Even though I had some trouble (Guess jersey’s not my kind of fabric) it came out really well. My only concern is the right side tipping of the skirt (and the fact it’s really short)
Preview:
My final fitting with wig and jewelry.
For the photoshoot I got some help from my friend, modelling my new 17th century outfit.
She wore the 17th century bodice, skirt, coif and fur over my quilted petticoat, accessoriced with a string of pearls and a Violine.
Here are the result:
Model: Annika Siljat
And here it is at last, The finished “Sew 17th century challenge” ensemble:
Inspiration pic (like you don’t know by now…)
+ Coif (headwear)
+ Cufs
= the finished ensamble:
The facts:
What: Reproduction of Gerard Ter Borch’s “The Concert”
Pieces: Skirt, cuffs, coif, fur shawl and bodice
Time: About 60-70 hours
Cost: About 400 Sek (60Usd)
Final thoughts: I think this challenge was great and I loved making all these pieces, and stepping away from my usual time periods.
I’m allready planing some new 17th century outfits.
Sneak a peak from the photoshoot:
Modell: Annica Siljat
Fashion Through Herstory 