Allers Pattern Journal 12 maj 1912

While I’m full steam ahead working on the next HSF project, I figured I give you a close-up of another Allers patterns journals.

This one’s from maj 1912.IMG_7912

IMG_7913Two lovely day/walking dresses.

IMG_7914Love the intricate collar.

IMG_7915Some crocheting ideas.

IMG_7916
Crocketed lace on dress.

IMG_7917
Some simple needlework patterns.

IMG_7918

IMG_7920

IMG_7921And some children’s fashion.

IMG_7922

IMG_7923A really long coat. I also like the strapping golf player in the background.

IMG_7924

IMG_7925

Allers Pattern Magazine 9 Mars 1913

I think it is time for yet another look at my (slowly) growing collection of “Allers Patterns Magazines”.
This magazine is from Mars 9th 1913.IMG_7669

IMG_7671Three lovely daywear outfits.

IMG_7670Love the cut of this blouse – sailor with a twist. I will definetly make it someday.

IMG_7672Embrodery and knotting designs.

IMG_7676And an ad for a fashionable shaped dressform. “What every lady should own” is the headline. But I do think it is a bit funny that the from is so extreamly S-shaped, and the rest of the fashions in the magazine is more slender straight lined. Guess the dressform manufacturer didn’t quite keep up with the shifting fashion.

IMG_7673Collars and crocketing patterns.

IMG_7674Love the flowery collars, and there even is a litle bonnet in the pic.

The center fold of eye-candy dresses.IMG_7677

IMG_7679Three darling everyday dresses. Perhaps the right one even will work for dinner.

IMG_7678Great hat.

IMG_7680

IMG_7681Young misses dresses.

IMG_7684

IMG_7683

IMG_7682Awsome ridinghabit and picture.

IMG_7685Embrodery letters.

And the final page with childrens clothing.IMG_7687

IMG_7688

IMG_7689Young adults/theenagers

IMG_7690

Allers Pattern Journal 26 jan 1913

and since we’re still on the subject of early 20th century: Here comes another view of my recently accuired “Allers Patterns Magzines”.

“Allers Mönster-tidning 26 jan 1913”.IMG_7643

Close up of front page.IMG_7645All of these dresses looks so comfortable. Even the coat look like it is really easy to wear.

IMG_7646Some knitting patterns and tips.

I just couldn’t resist incluing this add, its hillarious.IMG_7648It tells you about this amazing beverege called “Hunyadi Ja’nos” to get you “bowels movin”, just drink one full glas a day.

IMG_7652And some embrodery and knitting tips.

IMG_7650Take a look at this tapestry of a hunting party chasing the deer through the woods.

IMG_7653Oh those pretty dresses.

IMG_7655Love the draping on the left gowns skirt.

IMG_7654So beautiful.

IMG_7656Contrasting belts, big draping sleeves and trailing trains – heaven.

IMG_7657The right one in light creame and deep reed… drool.

IMG_7658Great shapes on these skirts.

IMG_7660More knitting patterns.

IMG_7661“Suggestions on tapestries”

IMG_7662Childrens fashion.

IMG_7664A litle boy-man with bowler and everyting.

IMG_7665Sailor suits and sweet dresses.

IMG_7666Misses dresses.

IMG_7668Pretty collars and lacing insertins.

Suffragets in action – Luncheon

Yesterday it was finaly time for the “Suffragett luncheon” I’ve been helping to plan since february – or rather been watching while other planed.

Anyway, I got up realy early yesterday morning to get on the train taking me to the capital, were I arrived in good time before the meet-up.

I walked the 10 min to my inlaws empty apartment, and started to get dressed.IMG_7618Underwear and huge red hair.

Using all my flexibility, I manadged to lace the corset (fairly easy), and to button the shirtwaist all the way in the back (really hard). IMG_8085The “In-door” look: Shirtwaist, walking skirt, swiss-waist and brosch.

And before leaving the apartment (about 40min after I arrived) I doned the huge hat, jacket, chain and broschIMG_8098

I took the intercity train to the smal, old house were we was to hold the meeting.

The ones of us who came early, emediatly started to prepar the food and table.IMG_8105Elin and Aggi prepearing the food.

Johanna set the table with yellow napkins, flowers and these lovely place holders, which she made using costuming pictures of all of us.IMG_8103I’m the one at the front.

 Then the guest started to arrive.IMG_8178From left: Elin (organizer and cook) trying to sell of some caviar, Johanna (Co. organizer) in blue and Lina in a purple 1910s dress. In the backround we can also glimps Aggi.

IMG_8112Carolina and Hanna.

Hanna is known for only using original garments. And she’s an expert in finding the most faboulus, well perserved, pieces ever.IMG_8113Close up.

When everyone arrived, it was time to take place by the table to start the 4 course “Suffragett luncheon” from a 1914s recepie. (link “Good housekeping 1914” recepie).IMG_8118

And since I’m not a fan of  “food photos”, I of course forgot to photograp all the courses.

But here are a few.IMG_8122Chicken soup with croutons.

IMG_8129Celery-canapé with salad and toast.

And some pics of the lovely ladies.IMG_8125Looking modelstly happy…

IMG_8126..and happily confused…

IMG_8144..and then back to modestly interested…

But after a while it got a bit crazy… No I’m kiding but Lina did pose in a rater unexpected fashion.IMG_8132A suffragett on top of a suffraget….

When we finished all the courses, it was time to play the original “Suffragett board game”.IMG_8146

Using famous swedish women-fighters for pieces.IMG_8150

 Then some of us took the time to pose for the camera.IMG_8151Emelie in her lovely striped pink, self made gown.

IMG_8152Love this picture – So pretty.

Then it was my turn.IMG_8175I think this pic is hilarious – take a look at the frisky look in the creapy manequins eyes, and you know what I mean.

IMG_8163

IMG_8141Carolina gives us a big smile in her cool, self made outfit.

Then we went outside for some quick group pictures.

IMG_8157We manadged to get a young guy to help us photograp – he was very polite and patient, but he must have thougt we were totaly crazy.

IMG_8159“Empire but skratch”

IMG_8160And of course some shoes – oh those naughty suffragetts.

Then it was time to hurry back to the aparment to change (took me half the time taking it of), and catch the train home.

I had such a good time dressing up and spending an afternoon in the company of all these awsome ladies.

Allers Pattern Journal 20 okt 1907

Last week my first real “ancent/vintage” items arrived in the mail. Three copies of “Allers pattern magazine” from early 20th century.

I must confess I’m in love with them all. And I think I might developed a crushing need to get my hands on lots (all) of these fashion magazines.

And today I will give you a closer look at one of them. Hopfully you will find them as wounderful and lovely as I do.

“Allers Mönster-tidning 20 ok 1907”IMG_7624Some lovely separates: skirts, shirtwaists and a fur jacket at the bottom.

IMG_7626Embrodery and home decor. Not my cup of tea, but pretty non the less.

Winter dresses to die for.IMG_7627Lookig at this pictures makes me dream of ice-skating and winter walks. Lets take a closer look.

IMG_7628I adore this whole outfit: the hat, the muff, the fur trimed skirt – I will definetly try to make this one someday.

IMG_7629Two beatiful gowns with lovely sleeves and decorations.

IMG_7630A mother and child (makes me want a litle one, just to dress in dresses like this.)

IMG_7631Elegance overload. I can’t decide which one I like the best, they are both so lovely. Perhaps  will just have to make them both…

IMG_7632Some more formal gowns. Love the lace treatment on the light skirt.

IMG_7633Beautiful.

IMG_7634Looks warm and cosy. I do however think I would feel very old and shapeless in a cape like this.

This next page is full of sewing tips and instructions for the cape shown in the left corner. The headline on the page is “Husliga sysslor” (domestic chores).IMG_7635

A love this scheme of childrens clothes.IMG_7636

IMG_7637Pretty young ladies.

IMG_7638I adore the short knickers and long socks worn by the boys.

And the final page is also dedicated to childrens clothing.IMG_7639

IMG_7640Look at that lovely jacket and the kick as attitude on the girl. You wouldn’t mess with her would you.

IMG_7641Some essential night gowns and a cute litle nightcap.

And finaly two sweet school girls in striped dresses and hats.IMG_7642

Edwardian Layering

I’ve been working a lot on my edwardian wordrobe latley. If you got tired of it, I can tell you this will be the last one in a while (I do whoever have some post on this era planed for later).

But before we skip backward a few centuries I want to show the complexity in which the edwardian lady dressed. When dressing for the recent photoshoot  my sister/photagrapher exclaimed: Omg, and to think they wore all this every day.

She is not far from wrong. Acctually, the “finer” lady would change into several different dresses in one day (morning, walking, dinner ect.), something that would have taken both time and help from a handmaid/dresses. The women of lesser meens would have to settle for one dress a day (week, month…). And she would not have worn all the extra layers, accessories and padding except perhaps for sundays.

But enough about that. Here is my Edwardian Lady undressed.

IMG_7573As usual we start fully dressed, in: Gown and appropirate accessories like hat, belt/swiss waist, fan, glowes and juwelry.

IMG_7580Once the accessories are removed we find a much softer looking style, wearing only the gown – even though she would never have walked outside this “naked”. Lets do another layer.

IMG_7594Beneth we find the corset cover/brassiere who both keeps the sharp edges from the corset from showing through the dress, and helps create the fashionable “pigeon bust” of the period. We also find the petticoat, which in this period could be very decorative with lots of lace and ruching, but in this case is simply a white cotton one.

IMG_7598When we remove the brassiere, we can se parts of the corset.

IMG_7604And without the petticoat the bum-enhansor/bumpad is visible. I’ve haven’t had the time to make a proper edwardian one yet, but uses my 18th century purple one instead. The bumpads obvious purpose is to enhance the bum and to give a more distinkt S-bend shape.

IMG_7612And then we are down to the unmentionables: The corset with its garter and S-shape, the petticoat, stockings, separate under bodice and shoes. I wear an regular tank-top beneth he corset since I have’nt gotten around to make the proper edwardian combinations yet.

And that was all for this time.

Camille Photoshoot

A couple of days ago me and my sister went outside to take some pictures of my re-modeled edwardian gown and hat.

I tried to capture some of the poses I’ve seen in old photographs but honestly, I both feelt and looked supid. Apperently I ended up  touching my hat a lot, and looking very snooty at the same time. Saucy temptress may not be my strongest look. So I’ve mixed it up with some un-edwardian smiley pics as well.

IMG_7397

IMG_7401

IMG_7455

IMG_7439

IMG_7443

IMG_7471

IMG_7460

IMG_7499

IMG_7515

IMG_7531

IMG_7542

IMG_7559Photo: Maria Petersson

Camilles Picture (Top) Hat

I decide early that I was going to make an Edwardian hat for the HSF ?: Tops and Toes. My original plan was to make a matching hat to wear together with the prevoulsly made edwardian “Farytale”gown, to a upcoming event.

But as you can guess my planes changed a bit once I decided I hated it, and would never wear the “Ariel/Farytale” gown again.

The new plan is to make a hat be-fitting of the faboulus Camille Clifford. And since the dress is now re-styled after one of her dresses, what would be better then to also make the awsome, gigantic hat to match.Camille21

The only problem was – I’ve never made a hat from scratch before… Ok, I’ve made a 19th century bonnet, but nothing this complex, and huge.

I started searching for some pattern layouts on the internet, and was just about to start the drafting, when I stumbeled on this hat hanging in a store. IMG_7070 Since it was both the perfect size and colour, I took the easy way out and bought it.

Since it was so big I decided it needed a bit of strenghtening to get the right shape. So I grabbed my metal wire and got to work, sewing it on to the brim. IMG_7195Bending the edges of the wire so not to poke through the straw. IMG_7197

Then I did the same thing two more times. IMG_7199

The high crown of the hat neded to be lovered to get the right look.IMG_7188But instead of cutting, I decided to just poke it down on itself.

A few stiches and the crown are now les the half its original hight.IMG_7190And since you will need a hatpin to keep it in place anyway, the low crown dosen’t bother me.

Time to deal with the dcorations. I strated by cuting shreads from some of my black fabric scraps.IMG_7117

Then I gathered them to litle “clusters”, and arranged them beneath the brim. IMG_7308

IMG_7309They look kind of strange sitting on the inside/underside of the hat, but I just follow my inspirtiona picture.IMG_7312Hm a litle weard…

Then it was time for some feathers.IMG_7079I used a feather “boa” I bought for this pourpose.

Triming of those ugly ends.IMG_7314

And carefully stiching the feathers on, cirkeling the crown.IMG_7316

I then realised I didn’t had enough feathers to fill the hole in the crown. So I found some black fabric scraps and made a quick litle bundle.IMG_7317

Which I putt in the crown and attached by a few stiches.IMG_7318

Then I could continue attaching the feathers on to the neewly created lower crown.IMG_7320

And Finished:IMG_7323

IMG_7331

IMG_7321

IMG_7363

IMG_7361

IMG_7360

IMG_7553Sneak-a-peak of todays photoshoot…

Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 7 – Tops and Toes.

What: An Edwardian “Picture hat” (ca 1905s).

Pattern: None

Fabric: Nope

Notions: a black straw hat, thread, steel wire, feathers 1,5m, fabric scraps and ribbons.

Historical accuracy: Not at all. Totaly modern construction. It may pas for edwardian but I doubt the laydy of the day would ever consider wearing it.

Time: 2 hours.

Cost: 150Sek (22Usd)

First worn: At easter for a photoshoot. Maybe I will wear it mid may for an event.

Final thougts: I’m pretty happy about it. And it looks even better since I pinned a satin ribbon and broch to it, to break up all those feathers. I just need to get my hands on some hatpins to keep it more firmly on my head.

“Ariel”, meet “Camille”

From the moment I put the Ariel gown on, I’ve been thinking about ways to alter it to make it more flatterning, tous make me like it more.

I very seldom re-work and alter my costumes. If there is some item I don’t like, I usaly just putt it in the bottom of the costuming box and forget about it.

But this time I figured I give the re-working a try. And after reading all the tips and encuragment from all of you, I decided I was definetly going to try to make it into a more lovable gown.

But how?

After some image searcing, for edwardian dresses, on the internet I came across this pic. Camille21 It’s Camille Clifford in a white “pigeon bust” gown accessorized with black belt and hat.

I emmediately decided to try to re-style my Ariel gown into Camilles beautiful dress.

So, I needed to go from this…b494ff618d0617fcfd3b9dc06ed0a0f5

…To this.b17-1(the black line highlighting the low neckline is a later addition by who ever had the picture before me).

I realized at once I was not going to manadge the black colour fading on the skirt, simply because my fabric didn’t had the toning. Nor did it had the flowery design, and I did not had the time to cut and attach several hundreds of flowers to get the style completly right. Maybe that will be something to do later on, if I decides I like it this time around.

But on to what I could do.

I started by ripping my gown appart, separated the bodice and skirt. IMG_7108

Ripped out and re-cut the sleeves to get rid of some of that high pouf I prevously had. IMG_7115

And getting rid of the cuffs. IMG_7106

Then I started to assemble it again.

Attaching a black self made bias tape to the collar, to mimick the high sharp collar of Camilles gown. IMG_7187

Then I got on to the sleeves. Gattering the sleeve head, and changing the design of the sleeve-end from cuff to rusching.IMG_7181

I re-stiched the bodice to the skirt, rising the waist a bit in the process.

I also experemented a bit with the flowers from the previous design. IMG_7105 Making them smaler and pinning them to the sleeves, bodice and skirt. But decided to pospone that project to the future.

The finished dress:IMG_7230

IMG_7227

IMG_7233

IMG_7234

When the gown was finished it was time to start on the belt.

I did not had a pattern to use, so I decided to make my own. IMG_7122

IMG_7123 IMG_7124

IMG_7125

I then brought out all the pieces of black fabric I owned to decide wich one/ones to use. IMG_7113 I decided on the plain cotton fabric (center top) for the foundation, and the cotton voile/cheese-cloth (top left) for the draping.

I cut the foundation pieces and basted on a second layer as interlining. IMG_7137

Marked and stiched the boning chanels, and inserted the boning. IMG_7208

Then I started on the draping.IMG_7209Pinnig the cotton voile on the bias to the foundation piece while attached to the dressform.

Then I cut of the exess fabric and pinned the tucks in place. IMG_7214

I handstitched the tucks down, and folded the exess fabric around to be covered in cotton lining.

IMG_7218 IMG_7219

Then I set the gromets (something that caused more trouble then usual due to thick fabric).IMG_7220

And finishing of with some hooks and eyes at the front tabs.

IMG_7222 IMG_7223

I really like how the curve of the belt looks in this picture.IMG_7225

Finished:IMG_7238

IMG_7253

IMG_7235

IMG_7262

IMG_7247

IMG_7254

IMG_7258

IMG_7242

IMG_7241

IMG_7244

IMG_7260

IMG_7252

Facts re-making:

What:  Re-fashion of the edwardian “Ariel” gown into a new edwardian gown – “Camille”.

Fabric: Scraps of regular black cotton sheets (maybe a total of 30cm), and 30 cm black cotton voile.

Notions: 2x hooks and eyes, thread, 20 cm black bias tape, 1m of boning, 1,5 m black cord and 12 gromets.

Time: To long – ca 8 hours.

Cost: Maybe 20 Sek (3 Usd) worth of stash notions.

Result: I think it looks great (but so did  “Ariel” on the dressform), I will have to wait and se how I feel about it until after the photoshoot next week.

 

Camille Clifford

Searching the internet for som Edwardian inspiration I came across this glamorous lady. 220px-Camille_Clifford_2

Her name was Camille Clifford (29 June 1885 – 28 June 1971), and she was a well known varité artist.

Her towering coiffure and hourglass figure defined the Gibson Girl style.

Camille Clifford - Gibson GirlLook at those shapes…

“Camille was raised in Sweden,Norway and Boston. In the early 1900s she won US$2000 in a magazine contest sponsored by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson to find a living version of his Gibson Girl drawings: his ideal woman.

Clifford became an actress, performing in the United States from 1902 and in England from 1904. She returned from London to Boston on 3 July 1906. While only playing walk-on, non-speaking roles, Clifford became famous nonetheless: not for her talent, but for her beauty. Her trademark style was a long, elegant gown wrapped around her tightly corseted, eighteen-inch wasp waist.” (from Wikipedia.)

Camille-Clifford

“She retired from the stage and married Captain the Honourable Henry Lyndhurst Bruce in 1906. They had one child, Margaret, but the child died five days after birth. Her first husband was killed during The Great War in 1914.

She made a brief return to the stage after the death of her first husband. Then in 1917, married Captain John Meredyth Jones Evans. After the war she left the stage for good and later owned a stable of successful racehorses. Her second husband died in 1957.” (from Wikipedia).

7

Photographs of her taken by Lizzie Caswall Smith in 1905 often appear in historical fashion books and on websites to illustrate the Edwardian style.

936full-camille-clifford

I must say I’m totaly in love with her look. Those sweeping skirts, wide hips and slim waist – and not to forget the saucy look in her eyes, telling us she’s in full control.

tumblr_lpuetqs5JQ1qzixv7o1_500The lady does know how to wear a train.

Camille_Clifford_(Mrs._H.L._Bruce)_(Mrs._J.M.J._Evans)_(LOC)Soft and beautiful.

hämtaLooks like a painting (perhaps it is).

8

Camille-Clifford-Rotary

tumblr_ljj7c1Y0ZV1qj0xaio1_400Same dress, different style.

526fe4b9691ae34f088253ee5a5e7650Such gorgeous shapes…

gibson007And she certanly knows how to pose to make the most of them.

tumblr_kykf6enEjb1qarrqqo1_500“Just relaxing…”

tumblr_lg41m2e5lz1qb8ugro1_500Love this dress (must make it someday).

Camille21Devine.

I think I’ve found my new style icon.

I may not have the curves (no shit), but I hope I can get the confidens and attitude she has, and the abillity to know my strenghts to make me able to pull of whatever look I want.