“Ariel”, meet “Camille”

From the moment I put the Ariel gown on, I’ve been thinking about ways to alter it to make it more flatterning, tous make me like it more.

I very seldom re-work and alter my costumes. If there is some item I don’t like, I usaly just putt it in the bottom of the costuming box and forget about it.

But this time I figured I give the re-working a try. And after reading all the tips and encuragment from all of you, I decided I was definetly going to try to make it into a more lovable gown.

But how?

After some image searcing, for edwardian dresses, on the internet I came across this pic. Camille21 It’s Camille Clifford in a white “pigeon bust” gown accessorized with black belt and hat.

I emmediately decided to try to re-style my Ariel gown into Camilles beautiful dress.

So, I needed to go from this…b494ff618d0617fcfd3b9dc06ed0a0f5

…To this.b17-1(the black line highlighting the low neckline is a later addition by who ever had the picture before me).

I realized at once I was not going to manadge the black colour fading on the skirt, simply because my fabric didn’t had the toning. Nor did it had the flowery design, and I did not had the time to cut and attach several hundreds of flowers to get the style completly right. Maybe that will be something to do later on, if I decides I like it this time around.

But on to what I could do.

I started by ripping my gown appart, separated the bodice and skirt. IMG_7108

Ripped out and re-cut the sleeves to get rid of some of that high pouf I prevously had. IMG_7115

And getting rid of the cuffs. IMG_7106

Then I started to assemble it again.

Attaching a black self made bias tape to the collar, to mimick the high sharp collar of Camilles gown. IMG_7187

Then I got on to the sleeves. Gattering the sleeve head, and changing the design of the sleeve-end from cuff to rusching.IMG_7181

I re-stiched the bodice to the skirt, rising the waist a bit in the process.

I also experemented a bit with the flowers from the previous design. IMG_7105 Making them smaler and pinning them to the sleeves, bodice and skirt. But decided to pospone that project to the future.

The finished dress:IMG_7230

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When the gown was finished it was time to start on the belt.

I did not had a pattern to use, so I decided to make my own. IMG_7122

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I then brought out all the pieces of black fabric I owned to decide wich one/ones to use. IMG_7113 I decided on the plain cotton fabric (center top) for the foundation, and the cotton voile/cheese-cloth (top left) for the draping.

I cut the foundation pieces and basted on a second layer as interlining. IMG_7137

Marked and stiched the boning chanels, and inserted the boning. IMG_7208

Then I started on the draping.IMG_7209Pinnig the cotton voile on the bias to the foundation piece while attached to the dressform.

Then I cut of the exess fabric and pinned the tucks in place. IMG_7214

I handstitched the tucks down, and folded the exess fabric around to be covered in cotton lining.

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Then I set the gromets (something that caused more trouble then usual due to thick fabric).IMG_7220

And finishing of with some hooks and eyes at the front tabs.

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I really like how the curve of the belt looks in this picture.IMG_7225

Finished:IMG_7238

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Facts re-making:

What:  Re-fashion of the edwardian “Ariel” gown into a new edwardian gown – “Camille”.

Fabric: Scraps of regular black cotton sheets (maybe a total of 30cm), and 30 cm black cotton voile.

Notions: 2x hooks and eyes, thread, 20 cm black bias tape, 1m of boning, 1,5 m black cord and 12 gromets.

Time: To long – ca 8 hours.

Cost: Maybe 20 Sek (3 Usd) worth of stash notions.

Result: I think it looks great (but so did  “Ariel” on the dressform), I will have to wait and se how I feel about it until after the photoshoot next week.

 

Camille Clifford

Searching the internet for som Edwardian inspiration I came across this glamorous lady. 220px-Camille_Clifford_2

Her name was Camille Clifford (29 June 1885 – 28 June 1971), and she was a well known varité artist.

Her towering coiffure and hourglass figure defined the Gibson Girl style.

Camille Clifford - Gibson GirlLook at those shapes…

“Camille was raised in Sweden,Norway and Boston. In the early 1900s she won US$2000 in a magazine contest sponsored by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson to find a living version of his Gibson Girl drawings: his ideal woman.

Clifford became an actress, performing in the United States from 1902 and in England from 1904. She returned from London to Boston on 3 July 1906. While only playing walk-on, non-speaking roles, Clifford became famous nonetheless: not for her talent, but for her beauty. Her trademark style was a long, elegant gown wrapped around her tightly corseted, eighteen-inch wasp waist.” (from Wikipedia.)

Camille-Clifford

“She retired from the stage and married Captain the Honourable Henry Lyndhurst Bruce in 1906. They had one child, Margaret, but the child died five days after birth. Her first husband was killed during The Great War in 1914.

She made a brief return to the stage after the death of her first husband. Then in 1917, married Captain John Meredyth Jones Evans. After the war she left the stage for good and later owned a stable of successful racehorses. Her second husband died in 1957.” (from Wikipedia).

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Photographs of her taken by Lizzie Caswall Smith in 1905 often appear in historical fashion books and on websites to illustrate the Edwardian style.

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I must say I’m totaly in love with her look. Those sweeping skirts, wide hips and slim waist – and not to forget the saucy look in her eyes, telling us she’s in full control.

tumblr_lpuetqs5JQ1qzixv7o1_500The lady does know how to wear a train.

Camille_Clifford_(Mrs._H.L._Bruce)_(Mrs._J.M.J._Evans)_(LOC)Soft and beautiful.

hämtaLooks like a painting (perhaps it is).

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Camille-Clifford-Rotary

tumblr_ljj7c1Y0ZV1qj0xaio1_400Same dress, different style.

526fe4b9691ae34f088253ee5a5e7650Such gorgeous shapes…

gibson007And she certanly knows how to pose to make the most of them.

tumblr_kykf6enEjb1qarrqqo1_500“Just relaxing…”

tumblr_lg41m2e5lz1qb8ugro1_500Love this dress (must make it someday).

Camille21Devine.

I think I’ve found my new style icon.

I may not have the curves (no shit), but I hope I can get the confidens and attitude she has, and the abillity to know my strenghts to make me able to pull of whatever look I want.