“America day – Those who Stayed Behind”

This weekend I attended the “American day” in a small village called Kisa.
The theme for the day was the Swedish emigration to America during the later half of 19th century, with a closer look at the Swedish society, clothing and food for all those who choose to stay behind (mainly the rich).

The old In (Wärdshus) in Kisa hosted the day, and me and a group of volunteer ladies held the costume and fashion “show” including a presentation of 1850-1900s fashion.

The first thing we did after arriving was to set up our dress forms with fashions from 1850-1900s.
Unfortunately we ended up with way to many bustle dresses and lacked both 1850s and 1900s dresses.
We also totally lacked mens fashion.
Lesson learnt for next time I guess.

IMG_5221Our “Showroom” – you can see my 1900s S-shaped corset to the left and my 1850s corset, crinoline and bonnet to the right.

IMG_5330Accessorizes 

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After the “showroom” was set, and we all gotten into our chosen garb, it was time to meet the guests.IMG_5245Group pic (missing two of the ladies who came a bit later)

We were supposed to walk around chatting with the guest, but since everyone was seated listening to the orchestra playing we didn’t had the chance to present ourself, but just stayed in the background as to not disturb the musicians.

IMG_5278Sara is wearing her fabulous military inspired 1880s bustle dress.

IMG_5254Helena in yet another lovely bustle dress.

IMG_5303I went a bit outside the box and wore my Downton Abby 1914s dress.

IMG_5295Gossiping 1850s ladies…

When the music was over, Sara got to show the resemblance between the orchestras uniform and her dress.IMG_5284Twins?

Then we all went inside for our costume presentation.IMG_5304

Helena held a great presentation, illustration the past fashions using both the dressforms and us as mannequins.IMG_5310

Then it was time to get seated for the 1870s style dinner, made by the Ins own chef from an old recipe.IMG_5314Salue! Cheers! Skål!

IMG_5320This pic cracks me up – just look at Mauds face watching me play with my food…

After dinner the guests had a little bit of time to ask us questions and take our photos.IMG_5340Susanna posing for a guest.

Before it was time to head home we all decided to take the time to get some nice photos
(my sister joined us the whole day as a photographer)IMG_5349

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IMG_5362Group-pic

IMG_5365The obligatory crazy group pic

IMG_5383Sara and Helena in beautiful blue bustles

IMG_5395Barbro in lovely 1870s dress – I love the stripe work

IMG_5415Maud and Marie just cant stop laughing in their 1850s garb

IMG_5433Josefine, Susanna and me chatting about some scandalous things.

IMG_5430“No way! I’t was you…”

IMG_5434Lovely Edwardian elegance

Then it was time to pack up and go home…IMG_5444

I’m not super impressed with the arrangement of the event (no PR, no schedule and strange activity clashes),
but I’m definitely happy and thankful for all the lovely ladies who turned up in costume and high spirit to make the day a success.

IMG_5368That pretty much sums it up…
All photos by: Elin Evaldsdottra

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1900s S-shaped Underwear

The item for challenge 4 of the HSF14 was quite simle to decide – Looking at my intended “sewing list” where a 1900s evening gown is the next big thing, I of course needed the proper undergarmnents.

Since this is a new era for me (I’ve done 1980s and 1910s, but they are not at all the same) I needed to start from the bottom. So a corset it is.

Looking through the internet for inspiration I really liked this one. 72867cfdcae740e03be80aca71d75b95

And amongst my patterns I found the 1901s corset from Nora Waughs “Corset and Crinolines”. 1901 waugh

My original thought was to make the corset in ivory cotton sateen, but when searching my stash I discovered it was all gone (I’ve already used it all on a couple of other corsets). And the only other strong ivory colored fabric I had was a rough unbleached cottonblend. So on to the fabric store I went, finding this nice striped cotton upholstery fabric instead. IMG_6291

I had wished to make this a quick and dirty stash busting prject, but found I already had had to many of those lately – thous leaving my stash of notions almost empty (sigh). So I also needed to buy gromets, lacing cord, suspender grips and plastic boning (the planchett and decorational lace thankfully already in stash). IMG_6324

I originaly started this project 9 months ago till the HSF13 “White” challenge – before I realised I had other more pressing costuming needs.

So the pattern and the toile was already prepeared. And since I had absolutly no idea of the measurments I used making the mock-up, I just tried it on.  

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And as could be expected, it didn’t fit at all.

So I took out a total of about 10cm on the size, and added some lenght to make the front bottom smother. The rest of the fitting isues will be corrected once made up in a sturdier fabric and properly boned (I hope).

After the adjusments had been done, I cut the fabric, linning and interlining. Using as litle fabric as I posibly could. IMG_6289

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Then I started to sew it togehter, begining with the narrow side pieces. IMG_6297

And continuing on to the busk…IMG_6304

…and the gromets… IMG_6306

Realising to late I’ve put the gromets to far appart.IMG_6310I tried to fix it by putting some extra gromets at the waist (as in 1880s corsets).

Then I sewed the pieces together and made the boning chanels, using self made bias tape, and sewed them on. IMG_6327

When all the boning was inserted I sewed and trimmed down the top and bottom of the corset, prepeared it for the biastape.IMG_6332

Then I stiched on the pretty lace (which I picked from my “Lace box“).IMG_6317

Finished:IMG_6405

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And being worn:IMG_6359

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Just the facts:

Challenge: 4 – Under it all.

What: a 1900s S-shaped corset.

Pattern: Nora Whaugh’s 1901s corset from “Corset and Crinolines”.

Fabric: 0,5 of striped cotton upholstery fabric (50Sek), 0,4 m of nougat cotton lawn for lining and 0,5 m ivory cotton satten (used on bed-bolsers) both from stash.

Notions: Thread (stash), 32cm Busk (80Sek), 20 gromets (35Sek), 4m of lacing cord (50 Sek), 2 m of ivory biastape (stash), 5m selfmade biastape for boning chanels (stash), 5m plastic cable ties for boning (30sek), 2m steel boning (stash), 1 m lace (stash), 0,5 m elastics (stash) and 2 suspender-grips (50Sek).

How historical accurate: The fabric and pattern are all good. But the plastic boning and the construction tecninques are modern. so maybe 6/10.

Time: About 12 hours.

Cost: Money spent: 275 Sek (42Usd). Actual cost (including stash worth): about 400 Sek (61Usd).

First worn: For photograps 1 mars. But hopefully on some suffraget events and some summer picknics.

Final Thoughs: I’m pretty happy with it, but I think I will need to add some stuffing at the bum to get a more pronounced S-shape.