2016 in Review

2016 is one of those years we will always remember for it’s tragic events, raising lack of humanity/ compassion for the most vulnerable in our society (and world).

But for me, 2016 will always be one of the mot important years in my life – it’s the year my son was born.

Thus a big change in my priority’s (and time/energy) leaving my sewing somewhat on the backwater.
And taking into account that I had a 6 months hiatus from sewing last winter(Oct 2015 – April 2016) there is a miracle I managed anything at all. But I did actually finish a few items both before and after my delivery in June.

And here they are:

1790s printed Roundgown:
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Viscose 1790s Roundgown (both with and without baby-bump)IMG_9669

Regency Petticoat IMG_9661

Babyclothes:
Modern:
Jackets, bodys, pants, hats and rompers several of each.IMG_9732 IMG_9915

Historical:
A hat and shirt for a newborn IMG_0282

Halloween:
Henry VIII Costumeimg_1718

Menswear:
(not yet posted about)

Medieval shirt:img_0416

Regency Shirt:img_0861

1950s turquoise viscose dress:IMG_0842

1450s Italian Gown:img_0524

1400s Chemise IMG_0334

1450s Italian Court Gown img_0442

1550s Elizabethan gown:img_1581

Brocade gown img_1480

  Quilted petticoatimg_1033

I’ve also finished a few minor projects like, hemming skirts/pants, sewing curtains/pillows, adjusting dresses etc.

And as always I have a few things on their way which I didn’t manged to finish before the new year (but which hopefully will be completed in he following months).

Al in all I think I did pretty well with my 3 mayor project, which all has been on my wishlist for quite some time.

Regency Round Gown Photoshoot

Right after the dance recital me and my sister did a quick photoshoot of my new Round gown.

I’m wearing the dress (obviously), my new petticoat, chemise, stockings, American Duchess 18th century shoes, a white fichu, mittens, and a turban made from a shawl decorated with feathers.

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IMG_6298Photo: Elin Evaldsdotter

18th century/Regency Dance recital

In the end of April my dance team attended a the local event called “dance week”, where teams and dancers from all genres in dance.

The theme was 18th century/regency and we all dressed in our favorite costumes. I wore my new regency Round Gown (which I only just finished that same morning…)

We had a short recital and then invited the on-lockers to participate for a few dances.

The whole event was pretty low key, with only a few on-lockers, but it felt good to once more dress up and move my ever growing body.

(Sorry for the poor photos)IMG_5966

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IMG_6027Together with some of the interested public.

IMG_6118The whole team gathered.

Regency Round Gown – Construction

Long time no seen.
I´ve been living in my bubble for the past couple of months, but I have been creating some small tings while taking a break from blogging.

In the beginning of April, I got into my head that maybe I should join the dance team for one last performance before my time was due.
The recital was a 18th century/Regency themed one, set to April 24 (two weeks from then) – and I had nothing to wear.

You would think I’d be able to use one of my regency dresses (with lots of space for my growing belly), but unfortunately some other parts of me had grown as well (yes I´m talking to you, boobs), and there was no way I could close any of my old dresses.

So, a new one it is…

I’ve long been planing to make a regency/transitional round gown, and this was my chance.
Not only would it be perfect for accommodating my growing belly, but later it would also work as an “easy to access” nursing gown. Perfect!rd10

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I used the pattern from “Cut of Womens clothes” as a guide for the draping and seam placement, and the “Laughing Moon” wrap front spencer pattern for the front bodice foundation.
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As usual I drafted the pattern and made a mock-up.
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Due to my growing belly, I could not use my regency stays, but trusted a modern sports bra to do the work – after all for this project comfort was a priority.

Once happy with the fit, I when’t through my stash and soon found exactly hat I was after – a beautiful flower viscose in different shades of blue. And the almost 2 m of it would be exactly enough to make the dress.
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I cut the lining in a lavender blue satin (also from stash) and began the assembly.IMG_9601

All the seams in the back melts together from the print, but I do like the structure it gives to the bodice non the les.
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Once the back pieces was ready, it was time to get working on the front.IMG_9615Draping the front pattern

Using two gathering treads, I collected and arranged the fabric at the shoulder and under bust seamIMG_9622

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Before and after gathering the width.

Once the basic shape was done I tweaked it a bit by raising the under bust seam and removing a few cm from the neckline.IMG_9630

I stitched the lining using darts for bust shaping, IMG_9609

and basted the lining to the outer fabric.
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Then I added the sleeves and skirt.IMG_9640 The first look at how it might look once done (skirt just basted at this point).

I tried the dress on, and it fitted like a (very soft and unbelievable comfortable) glove.
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IMG_9655Tiny belly showing…
All that remained was to add ties and buttonhole for clouser and to hem the dress.

But before I could take the dress out for a spin (literally) I needed to make myself a skirt to match, to prevent any mishaps in the “underwear showing through the front opening” category.

Said and done.
I cut two widths of the same lavender fabric and stitched them together.
I pleated the top to a waistband, added shoulder straps, clouser and finished it by hemming.

The finished skirt/petticoat:IMG_9661

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The finished dress:IMG_9669

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IMG_9682Back shoulder

IMG_9683Ties in the back

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Sneak a peak from the photoshoot;IMG_6187

Regency hairdo

I’d be the first to admit that I know nothing about hair – My own are really short and don’t need much attentions, and when I had long hair a couple of years ago, I just wore it in a ponytail or bun.

But with great costumes comes great hair styles… or something like that.

So today I will show you the hairstyle I did on my sister for the Regency ball.IMG_3406

The day before the ball she pinned her hair up in curlers while still wet, and then slept on it.
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The first thing to do was to remove all the hair pins. IMG_3746

And shake the hair out, using the fingers to get it really big and fluffy.IMG_3747

Then I gathered most of the hair in a ponytail, leaving some hanging in the front. Using the ponytail as a base I attached a hair doughnut to add some volume and structure to the do.
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I then twisted and pinned the rest of the hair up in messy curls IMG_3751

Lastly I added the golden headband and secured it with some boby-pins.
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The finished hairdo at the ball.

I could also have left some of the front hair curls hanging to get another effect.

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IMG_3415The finished hair do at the photoshoot.

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Peace of cake.

Regency Ball 2014

At long last the day of the Regency ball had arrived.
10425524_1004195869596971_6268147082631848256_nThe dance cards in shape of fans.
Photo credit: Helena Brodd.

The evening stared with mingle, chatting and everyone trying to flirt there way to a full dance card. IMG_3756

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Then we moved upstairs to the great hall to sit down for dinner.IMG_3772

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IMG_3762The awesome ladies I had o the table, Ms Berg and Helena Brodd.

IMG_3771Me and my sister at dinner.

Then it was time for the dancing.
And since I danced almost every dance I don’t have any pics of the acctuall dancing, but had to settle for some in between shoots.

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IMG_3789Oh, I swoon over all the handsome gentlemen…

IMG_3832Blurry dancing…

I between and in the dance breaks I did get some photos of lots of lovely dressed people.
10410439_1004058419610716_53117235616509123_nTwo dresses from the same fabric.
Photo credit: Helena Brodd.

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IMG_3827The king and Queen…
(Helena is wearing a replica of the Swedish court dress)

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IMG_3811Kodac moment

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IMG_3809Regency photo bomb…

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IMG_3795The sewing group.

IMG_3804Sewing group wedgie…

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IMG_3844Silly shoot.

Regency Sewing Course

This fall I’ve been knee deep in Regency – in a good way.

As preparations for the up-coming regency ball I was asked to teach a night class in historic sewing.

So in beginning of September we had the first class. I was really nervous, not at all sure about this period  and not knowing was the students were expecting.

IMG_3351Patterns.

Everything went smooth, and the students were very grateful and everyone helped in answering the more tricky questions, which made me really happy about all the combined knowledge in the group.

IMG_3656It seems even I got some time working on my dress between helping the others.

IMG_3652My sister working on her ridicule.

IMG_3342The last meeting was held just a week before the ball, and the theme were accessories.

bild 1Concentrating hard.

IMG_3347Carl’s pinning the lining for his waistcoat.

IMG_3349Anna is a happy camper stitching away on her mock up for a spencer.

IMG_3662Pernilla stitching on her gown.

IMG_3350Maud usuly does 18th century but have changed century for this ball.

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The day of the ball some of us was not quite finished…IMG_3724Sneaking out those needles during the water break in the dancing rehearsals

 And here comes some pics from the ball to show of everybody’s beautiful work.

IMG_3755Denise and Pernillas lovely green creations.

IMG_3810Paula and Carl shared and used the same sari for their outfits, and they both looked smashing.

IMG_3815Maud made her whole dress by hand, and did manadge to finish before the last minute.

IMG_3819Solveig made the dress for her daughter Othelia.

IMG_3821Clara in her light green dress and wonderful ridicule.
Hm, do I detect a color trend…

10799595_1007608945932899_1896436223_nAnna in her fabulous cream colored gown
(photo credit to Anna)

IMG_3801And Pose….

 I’m so proud of what everyone of you have accomplished, and you all looked fantastic at the ball.
I’ve learnt so much during our meetings and hope to continue this classes, now when we all are ready for some new challenges.

White Regency Evening Gown

For the upcoming ball, hosted by my dancing company, I knew I wanted a new gown.
After several hours on Pinterest, looking through dossins of beautiful fashion plates, I finally decided on a style.

1799-1800-dressesI used the left dress in this fashion plate as my inspiration.

Since time was sparce, I decided to use Simplicity 4055 instead of draping my own pattern.simplicity4055This may now be the pattern I made most garments from (my yellow regency gown, brown spencer/west, my sisters greecian goodes dress, and now this white evening gown).

I also had the perfect fabric in my stash. IMG_7086A white striped cotton voile, that started life as a pair of IKEA curtains.

I started by mocking-up the lining to get a foundation to build the rest of the dress.IMG_3675The neckline needed to be lowered a bit. It is after all a ball, and if there is ever a time to show some cleavage a ball must most definitely be it. IMG_3683

Then I cut the fashion fabric, making sure to get enough fabric into the front piece to get some nice gathering. IMG_3684I stitched the bodice together and basted it into the interlining before I gathered the front.

Then it was time for the next try on.
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The bodice fitted pretty good, and the wrinkles at the back comes from my boyfriends pinning me into it (sch, don’t tell him), and not from the back being to small as you would think.

After finishing up the bodice, I attached the skirt making sure to put most of the gathers at the center back.IMG_3702

The sleeves are regular pouf sleeves with a row of gathering stitches in the middle to create a double pouf.IMG_3703

And once again I needed to get help being pinned into the dress (see why I will never say anything about less then perfect pinning…)

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Since I didn’t had time to get hold of a long enough red ribbon to tie around the neck, crossed in back and under bust as in the fashion plate, I experimented wit a shorter red ribbon tied under bust.

I finished by attaching the sleeves, hemming the skirt and attaching the hook and eyes at center back.
I also decided to stitch on a ribbon under bust made from the same fabric – something I did at the location of the ball, just before getting dressed.

The finished dress:IMG_3871

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A pic from the ball of me wearing the dress, stylishly accessorized in burgundy and beads:IMG_3797

Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 21 – Re-do. I choose to re-do challenge nr 9 – Black and White.

What: A white regency (year 1805) evening gown.

Pattern: I started with Simplicity 4055, but made quite a few changes to it.

Fabric: 3 m of white striped cotton voile from IKEA curtains. 0,5 m of white cotton for lining and interning.

Notions: Thread and 4 pair of hook and eyes.

How historical accurate: So so. The dress looks pretty good and the pattern are pretty authentic, but the construction are all modern with seing machine and bag lining. I would say about 6/10.

Time: I rushed the entire dress (starting only two nights before the ball) working the evenings after work, so I would say about 8 hours.

Cost: About 150 Sek (22 Usd)

First Worn: nov 8, to a Regency ball.

Final Thoughts: I really like it. The fit is good, and the dress looks both delicate and cool at the same time.
My only regret was not to have the time to make/buy the burgundy fabric/shawl that was to be draped across the shoulders and tied below the bust, as in the fashion plate.