menswear – Fashion Through Herstory

Shirts for a Gentleman

Published on February 9, 2017 by fashionthrougherstory2 Comments

Last fall, right before I hit the wall sewing wise I’d taken on one of my rare commissions (I don’t usually sew for others unless its totally on my terms).
But when my wonderful dancing master Sievert asked me if I could help him update his historical shirts I couldn’t say no.

He needed both a new medieval and a new regency shirt to use on our dance recitals.

So I got some nice cotton (I know linnen would be more accurate but I was to make them on machine anyway. And they needed to be easy to wash and care for), made some quick pattern calculations and cut the rectangles needed for both the shirts.

Then I stopped, put my head in the sand and closed my eyes to everything sewing/historical (because pregnancy can do that to you)

More then 10 months later (after the birth of my son, and then some), I was once more ready to tackle the shamefully late commission.

So after one intense week of sewing in between feedings, I managed to sew and deliver both shirts.

The process went pretty fast and straight forward except one little hiccup –
While putting the last hand on and pressing the Medievals shirt I noticed the seam allowance on the outside on one of the sleeves.

Meaning i’ve put it in inside out.

Crap!

So it was on to un-picking the french felled seam (with hand finishing:-( )

I then turned the sleeve outside- in and re-attached it, pressed and once more used tiny hand stitches to fell the seam.

There done!

Or, wait a second…

NOOOOoooo!!!

I done the exact same mistake AGAIN!

Some of you might remember that I’ve done this before (on my Borgia chemise les then a month before).

How is it even possible that I didn’t learn?
By now I tossed the damned thing into the corner and went to sleep, debating with myself if I could leave it like that.
Of course I couldn’t – It was a commission piece after all.

So bring back the seam ripper.

The only trouble was that these folded french seams needs really small seam allowance to look good, and the only way to achieve that is by trimming it after you stitched the first seam. This practice, and the fact I’ve done it wrong not one, but twice, meant that I cut of about 1,5 cm on the left shoulder compared to the right. Making the whole garment a bit of.

Once the sleeve was re-set, a third time, I quickly finished and packed the shirt away, out of sight.

The finished medieval shirt:

The final result after all the re-stitching.

Sleeve with ties

Then it was time to get cracking on the Regency shirt.

This time I didn’t do the same mistake (Hurray!), and the shirt was finished in a few days.

The finished Regency shirt:

Metal buttons on a standing collar.

The two shirts now at their new home.Lets hope he gets a lot of wear out of them.

“Foxhunt” School Project – part 3

Published on March 12, 2014March 12, 2014 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

The day before me and my sister was supposed to do the photoshoot of the “Foxhunt” Collection, I got it in my head to try to get some more pieces in to it.

So I decided to finish the mock-up for the breeches, thous including them in the Collection. They were already half finished, and only needed the lining, the buttons and some decoration. Sewn in a plain cotton fabric in a lovely green colour.

I also dug up my 1780s corset from half a year before.

Design sketch: Flowery corset and green breeches.

This corset was one of my second attempt at the 1780s pattern from Salens “Corsets”.Wise from my previous attempt at the pattern I decided to only use it as a guide in drafting the new pattern.

Not historical correct at all, but I still think the flower design looks great (and a bit kitch) on the front piece (and matching back piece).

The boning layout, using plastic cable-ties.

The corset turned out pretty good, and I frekvently use it in my costuming. If you been reading my blog Before, you might recognize it from some of my previous posts.Draping a robe Anglaise.

Photo from “1750s Layering“.

And worn together with the rest of my “Foxhunt” pieces.Where did the boobs go…

And at the photoshoot.

“Foxhunt” School Project – part 2

Published on March 10, 2014 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

For my school project last year I made a 18th century Collection called “Foxhunt” (Part 1).

When finished with the coat I started on the pants – A pair of mens breeches, using the pattern from Costume Close-up, and this picture as my guide.

Design sketch – Breeches.

I bought a light colloured faux sweade fabric, wich I fell in love with on the rack, but hated long before finishing the pants. The fabric was the devil, and totaly hopeless to manuver into the sewing machine, and harder still to hand stich.

The front opening on the pants was also hard to figure out while patterning (and to sew). But it did end up looking great, and the self covered buttons, jeans buttons and, sweade ribbons I used realy cooperated to make a pretty whole.

And I do love the look and the fit of the finished breeches, so I guess it was wort the work.

Then it was time to deal with the waistcoat.

Design sketch – waistcoat and green breeches.

I used a gold/yellow upholstery fabric I found on sale, and cut the pieces from the same pattern as the coat – only a tad smaller, and without the sleeves. For the back I used brown polyester lining, and the buttons are self covered in the golden fabric.

Fisnished outfit.I’m also wearing: A re-shaped feelt hat, the shirt for my national costume, neck-cloth, stockings and my folk dancing shoes.

And at the photoshoot.

When the whole outfit (coat, breeches, waistcoat and hat) was ready, I had abot 2 days left until the photoshoot.

And you know I can’t resist making some more items when I got such a massive amounth of time on my hands (ehm… Yeah, right).

So I decided to do a corset to complement the look.

Design sketch: Corset and breeches.

Using the leftover golden fabric from the waistcoat and the 1780s corset pattern from Jill Salens book, and all my spear time, I manadged to get it finished in time.

“Foxhunt” cover pic

And if you thought that was it, you are wrong – well kind of. I will show you the rest of the collection next time.

“Foxhunt” School Project – part 1

Published on March 6, 2014 by fashionthrougherstory8 Comments

Last year I attended a class in “Pattern Constuction”.

For the final exemanation we where suppose to make (pattern and sew) something to challenge and push ourself. We would have about a month to design, pattern and sew the item.

And since I always make womens gowns I decided to try my hands at some menswear.

I really like the late 18th century style and decided to try to recreate something like this right one.

I used this fashion plate as my inspiration.

And drew my own version of it.

Since I don’t know anyone who would like a coat like this (and no, I wouldn’t even think of asking my boyfriend), I decided to make the costume to my own measurments.

To keep to the original ideá of a mans coat, I used a mens pattern from “Costume Close-up” by Baumgarther, and altered the shape to fit my somewath more womanly figure.

I used a lovely brown wool with a nice strong but shapeable feel to it, and decorated it with lots of self covered buttons and suttage ribbons. (And since this was something I made before my blogging days, I sadly have no construction photos).

When the coat was finished I had 2 weeks left to deadline, and being me, I emedatly started working on a couple of other clothing items to make a mini collection. (Don’t worry, I will show you everything soon).