The myth of perfection – busting my myth

Lauren at “Wearing History” wrote a painfully true and honest post about our way to always appear “perfect” online and in social media.
How it is so easy for some people online, to write nasty comments and the following fear of anybody getting under our perfect polished surface.

This view of perfection we put up can have some serious consequences on other people who’s only seeing this polished shine all day, every day. I’s so easy to compare yourself to others perfection and put yourself down. We must all help each other and try to change this trend.

The simple truth is – No body’s perfect, and everybody have their own problems (big and small).

As a first (small) step to achieve this, I’ve decided to take Lauren up on her challenge – To tell what’s really going on behind the scenes in some of my posted photos.

Ok, here we go:

IMG_4766My legs was so sore and my feet so full of blisters, due to a rapid increase in my running schedule, I could barely walk and never the les wear my shoes.

IMG_20150315_181820I’ve had such a stressful week at work (covering for two sick co-workers while executing a big political meeting on my own), that I’d breaked down crying several times the past days (both at work and home at night).

IMG_58531_resizedI’d had the biggest argument with my boyfriend in our 10 years relationship over me wanting to take the job and do this movie. I feared we would not make it as a couple.
(on top of which I got harassed and grabbed at by lots of creepy drunkards at the party).

IMG_5615I’ve waited for weeks for the heavens to give us some snow, which I needed to be able to do this photoshoot – then I caved in, did the shoot without it.
That same night it snowed several cm.

IMG_3959I arrived at this event more then an hour late after getting completely lost on my way there. I’d sat on a bench lost in the capital late at night, without cell batteries, and not eaten anything that day, crying. Just to find the food all gone once a nice lady finally helped me find my way to the party.

IMG_4097My finger was stiff from cold during this November shoot, and I was freezing my but of in my sheer muslin dress.

IMG_2924 I needed to lace myself really hard to be able to close the jacket.
I feared I would either faint or bust the seams – or both.

CIMG4886My parents went through an awful, problematic and painful divorce,
and I just broken with my mother as a consequence.

IMG_0218This pic was taken on one of the warmest day of the year, and I was pretty much baking in my corset, bonnet and heavy skirts.

IMG_9131I talked my boyfriend into taking these pics – he hated every moments of it and refused to do anything then just push the button on the camera.

IMG_8785I was so tired (and hungry) from the travels and adventures it took me (and my sister) to get to this event, that all I wanted to do was to go home, un-lace, crawl into bed and sleep/cry.

IMG_8989I was suffering from the exertions of the day before (see above) and had the migraine from hell.

IMG_6982I hadn’t slept in weeks due to my terrible itching skin, which caused me to scratch the back of my thighs (and my arms, chins and neck) to raw open wounds. I got sleeping pills to stop the itching and help me sleep, but all it did was to make me les aware of my actions during the night, making my hands (and legs) even bloodier in the morning.
I could barley sit down, and was really afraid I would ruin the white dress with blood.

IMG_1115-okI’d just visited my grandpa at the senior home, trying to recognize him in his ever shrinking 45kg, cancer stricken body.

IMG_5561 näraI had such cramps in my back from the corset and weight of the gown, I was about to cry.

IMG_3663  I had an allergic chock caused by something in the green wool, and my hands, eyes and skin itched like crazy just being in the same room as the dress.

IMG_2035I had one of my (in-famous) menstrual related stomach cramps and was seriously thinking of going to the ER to get some more (and stronger) pain meed’s.

christmasMy sister was in the hospital – fighting for her life in IVF related complications.

This post was really hard for me to write.
Not just to tell the un-glamours truth, but also to re-live some of the worst things from my life.

New patterns

My wove not to purchase so much fabric this year, are going according to plan (I’ve only cheated once (or twice if you count Buckram as fabric)).

What I didn’t take into account was the ever growing temptation to splurge on patterns instead…

Since I mostly make my own pattern (draft or drape) I just recently discovered the allure of already tested, well researched beautiful historical patterns. Who can resist them?

And into the rabbit hole we go…

Lynn McMasters 1850-1860s summer hatIMG_6474

Lynn McMasters 1860s BonnetIMG_6475Yep, I got some serious millinery planed.

Past Patterns mid 19th century staysIMG_6476By now you’d probably guest my next big project…

Truly Victorian 1865 Eliptical Cage CrinolineIMG_6477Yes, 1860s costume (followed by at least two crinoline appropiet events) coming this spring/summer.

Laughing Moon Wrapping front Spencer IMG_6478This wil be the year I make one of these (I hope)

Truly Victorian 1880s Hat Frame IMG_6479

Truly Victorian 1887 Alexandra BodiceIMG_6480Hopefully I can squeeze in (out?) an 1880s bustle outfit as well this summer.

Wearing History Edwardian BlouseIMG_6481

Wearing History 1910s suitIMG_6482

Wearing History 1879 Pompadour Dinner BodiceIMG_6483

Wearing History Smooth Sailing Pants and BlouseSmoothSailingPatternCover(Apparently I forgot to take a picture of this one, so here are one I stole from google)

Another of my recent buys are a drawing/Inspiration book which hopefully will keep all my costuming sketches in order – instead of on random scraps of paper and receipt.IMG_6487

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Here I can penn down both my sketches/ideas and fabric recommendation, event dates and what I will need to complete the outfit (shoes, glows, petticoats ect. IMG_6484

IMG_6485I even started on a sewing diary for each costume.

Now it’s back to sewing.

Vintage Shopping in the Capital

This weekend me and a friend went to Stockholm for the movie premiere of the movie “Huldra”.

But before we needed to get ourselfs ready for the night, we headed down town for some vintage store browsing and a tiny bit of shopping.

First we visited the much talked about vintage store “Old Touch

20150320_151124_resizedJust the window display are to die for.
I totally understand why everybody recommend this store for anything vintage.

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20150320_151822_resizedThe gentlemen section

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20150320_152025_resizeda dress from the 1950s.

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20150320_153215_resizedIt seams I got some extra love for old shoes somehow.

Bags in plenty hanging on the walls, on the shelves and every other place where they would fit.20150320_152125_resizedTake a good look at that golden one, because it’s no longer hanging on that wall…

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Then, on our way home, we stumbled on the shop “Epok“, which caries everything you could possibly need from late 19th century to 1950s.

20150320_155509_resizedThis store was even more cramped, and every square inch was packed with stuff.

20150320_155512_resizedLace veils, collars and shawls hanging from the ceiling.

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20150320_155624_resizedHats on the walls.

20150320_160224_resizedA fabulous hat from 1910s.

Kristin found a dress from the early 1920s, and tried the skirt on20150320_155746_resizedThe skirt is in two layers, with lots and lots of decorative embroidery and sparkly pallets.

I bought myself a pair of crocheted gloves (for my next big HSM project), and a beautiful beaded party bag. It’s from the 60s, and if it wasn’t in such impeccable shape it could easterly be mistaken for something a lot older.20150321_194521_resizedI highly recommend a visit in to both of these stores.
But be aware, they’r both totally rabbit holes, where you can get lost for hours and emerge with a lot less money then when you entered.

Huldra – Movie (pre) Premiere

2 years ago I worked as the costume designer for the movie “Huldra – Lady of the forest”, which takes place in the deep northern forests of Sweden.
(you can red a bit more on my adventures during the shooting here: Huldra, Huldra- characters, Huldra – Working hard)

And now it is finally finished.

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The trailer looks awesome:
https://vimeo.com/84141668

(Official movie website: www.huldra.org)

I’m so happy there’s now a final product for all the hard work we all put in.10806415_750945241651004_3810141470368900492_nOn set, shooting the last couple of scenes.

And this weekend there was a big premiere/screening for everybody involved in the process of making the movie.

Which of course I had to attend.
So me and co costume designer Kristin decided to go (and to go in style – putting on that extra bling).
IMG_20150321_110330_resizedBathroom selfie.
left to right: Mirja – who does incredibly nail and make-up arts – cheek her out here,
Fanny – yet another amazing make-up artist, working in both fashion and theater make-up,
Me, and in front, my companion in costuming crime: Kristin – the most fab and well dressed person I’ve ever meet, who’s strong opinions on nature and women’s rights doesn’t leave anybody unaffected (she also have a great eye for clothing and a passion for historical rural costuming).

IMG_58531_resizedI wore my old new years dress, paired with boots and a crazy beautiful new vintage bag
(you can glimps the golden strap in this picture).

The theater was full and all 350 seats was taken, not just with people involved in the movie, but also lots of friends, family’s and professional movie goers aswell. 20150320_200819_resized

It was such a blast meting everybody again ( I can’t believe it’s almost been two years).

20150320_200810_resizedKristin and Fanny nervously waiting for the movie to begin.

Afterwards the director and the producer held a short speech, asking the leading actors onto the floor for applause.20150320_220852_resizedThen most of us headed to the after party.

Many, many hours later I finally got home.
Looking at the sunrise from my temporary bedroom window, realizing I’ve been partying for about 12 hours. 20150321_055655_resizedOps…
Well, it was so much fun, and totally worth the three hours of sleep I got before the bus was to take me home for real.

Since the only party pictures I got are either to dark or to blurry, I leave you with some nice and clear pics and screenshots from the movie.Huldra-screenshots00165

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10955798_781321845280010_4797106052030112291_nPhotos: Marcus Möller

What I thought of the movie?

Well, lets just say it was fun watching it all come togeter.
And that me and Kristin could feel really proud of our work – The costumes at least, looked great….

A Pile of Notions

My favorite (and only) store for sewing notions have just declared bankruptcy.
They have been my go to store for ages, and even if they’r not the cheapest they are definable the most well stocked.

The most sad thing about it (apart from me not being able to shop there no more) is that they didn’t go bankrupt because of lack of costumers, but because the owner got arrested while traveling and shopping for more beautiful ribbons.

This week I (and every senior citizen who can hold a needle) lined up for the clearance sale.

And here are some of the thing I got…

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IMG_5361Cotton ribbons perfect for laces and cording

IMG_5362Cotton velvet in brown and midnight blue

IMG_536410 m of white and black pleated ribbon.

IMG_5368Many meters of lace

IMG_5370Pompon ribbon and more lace

IMG_5371Feather ribbon

IMG_5373Assorted colors of buttonhole thread

IMG_5374Belt buckles and butterfly patches

IMG_5376Buttons!

IMG_5378Inspiration overload….

Overload on beautiful Books

The days after Christmas I treated myself to some costuming books.

And today they arrived!
Yay!
IMG_496310,5 kg of costuming happiness!

From left to right:

In Fine Style – the Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion
 by Anna Reynolds
IMG_4980IMG_4981I just found this book this winter and I don’t regret for a second my impulse to get it.
Its a real candy book with lots and lots of gorgeous photos of existing garments and paintings with lovely close-ups of details.

Fashion – a History from 18th century to 20th century (part 2 1900s to 2000s)
by Kyoto Institute of Fashion.IMG_4972 IMG_4973This book series is classic for a reason. The beautiful pictures and the sheer size of the volumes are all reason you need to love it.

Fashion – a History from 18th century to 20th century (part 1 1700s to 1900s)
by Kyoto Institute of Fashion.

IMG_4969 IMG_4971If you ever searched the internet for costume inspiration, you’r sure to have encountered several of the pics in this book. They are simply breath taking, and the book is a real treasure to study closely or to just flip through for inspiration.

The Victorian Tailor – Techniques and pattern
by Jason Maclochlainn
IMG_4977 IMG_4979I’ve heard it said that if you only need one book about historic/Victorian tailoring, it is this one.
I can’t wait to really get in dept into this book, and hopes to be able to try some of the techniques in the near future.

The queens servants – Gentlewomen’s dress at the accession of Henry VIII
by Caroline Johnson
IMG_4974 IMG_4975Since I love “The Tudor Tailor” I expect this close-up on women’s servants to be great.
So far I’ve seen some interesting dress styles and lots of information about cut and colors.

Elizabethan Costume – Design and Construction
by Helen Qizhi Huang, Kelsey Hunt and Emily Hoem
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Considering I own and love the other three books in this costume series, I’m not that thrilled.
There seems to be some interesting stuff about construction and fabrics, but at a first gimps I’d expected more. Not to say that it won’t grow on me later on.

 

Now you might excuse me while I disappear in to theses goodies for about a month….

Old Stuff Sold Of

I’ve just posted about all these fabolous books and patterns I’ve bought this spring/summer. And as my friend, whos working in a fabric store, asked after my umpteenth visit to the shop; How do you afford it?

There are acctually sveral reasons I can spend the amout of time and money on this hobbie as I do (even though I try to reduce the costs as much as possible).

The biggest reason being – I don’t make that much money, but I don’t have lots of expences either (no kids, animals, house, car ect.), so the only thing I spend it on (after rent, food, savings ect.) is fabrics and costuming pieces.

But me recent spending spree, comes from another sorce.

I’ve been selling of some of the clothes I’ve made trough the years.
And since the money earned came from sewed things, it is olny fair that I could spend them on more costume related stuff… Right.

Here is what I auctioned out so far.

A jacket in 1950s style, made in some wool/syntetic blend.207I really liked it, but somehow never wore it so better to get some space in the wardrobe.

A 1950s dress, made from a self drafted pattern in a green/black polyester fabric I bought on sale. The skirt is a “double cirkle” and contains about 5 m of fabric.322I adored this dress, and was a bit sad to let it go. But I know it will have a loving home with a girl who’s going to use it for swingdancing.

Another 1950s dress, made from the same pattern and fabric (only in another colour) and with a sligh variation on the waist and neck treatment. 237

A purple dress and bolero, I made about 5 years ago. The patterns are self drafted and the outfit are made in a purple dotted polyester fabric. CIMG2636 - KopiaThe girl who bought it also took the shoes :-).

Another purple dress from a few years past. The dress are made in purple polyester satin and black lace, from a pattern I downloaded for free from the internet.120I never liked this dress. I had to much trouble making it, and there are way to many flawed parts, for me to get over. For someone without my exreamly critical eye, it’s probably perfectly fine.

A green yearsey dress made from another free download pattern. 066I made this dress to wear to a party, but hated the way I looked in it, so I never used it (I wore the green/black 1950s dress on top instead).

A seersucker jacket made from a comercial pattern. IMG_4832I worn this maybe one time and didn’t like the way it fit, so this also had to go.

And here are some things that I will putt up for sale during this weekend.
If you se something you like don’t hesitate to take a closer look at: http://www.Tradera.se search for: asa86.

A halter top dress I made as part of my graduation collection at fashion school.halterneckklanning_modellI do think it is lovely, but the plunging clevage and halter top neckline are not something I can pull of. I think it is time for it to get a more loving home.

The bridesmade dress I wore to my sisters wedding about 5 years ago. The pattern are my own and the dress are made in purple polyester satin.lila tärnklänning i kyrkanI only worn it this once, and it looked great, but I’m over it.

A yersey tunic/dress made as yet another school project. The pattern are my own and it is made in a soft drapery grey yearsey. I think it is pretty cool.IMG_0671The hood can be used as collar or hood, and the back of the dress had lots of volume pleated into “wattaue-pleats”. And it is comfy to.

A black/white chiffong dress I made for my sister a couple of years ago.feab1af55d6d504cd345f3180029bc89

Another “worn once” dress from a free download pattern (I think I begining to see a pattern). The dress is made in green and white sturdy cotton (twill?) and zips up the side.CIMG3465I never liked the sleeves on this one, and thougt it made my arms and shoulders look huge. On a person with slimer shoulders it should look great.

This is acctually a dress I didn’t make. It is from the clothing company “Vila” and are made in a really soft and lovely printed chiffong.IMG_9621

A green chiffong dress from about 6 years ago, made from a comercial pattern.IMG_9630I never wore it since the gathering at the bust and the shape of the neckline and bust made me feel huge and way to top heavy.

Another bough piece. A circular skirt with lots of widths at the hem. IMG_9613I bought it at ” Urban Outfiters” and wore it once. I think it was the elastics at the waist that made me not like it, but looking at it now it do looks pretty cute.

And lastly, a light blue linnen jacket I made in fashion school.IMG_9642You know how it is with these “school projects”, the huge amount of effort and time you put into them, just to realise you hate the damnd thing by the end of it. There are absolutly nothing wrong with it, only I would never wear it.

I will also get rid of some bags, shoes and other smaler stuff.

So, there you have it – This is how I afford it…

New Costuming books

As you might now by now, I’m a real sucker for costuming and fashion books. So when I recently had some money to spair I, spend them on my favourite online book store.

Here are the goddies I got this time.

Dress Design by: Talbot Hughes 
IMG_9683A new to me book, that contains lots of quick sketches of historic fashions and some  patterns.
At first glance I’m not particulary impressed, but I will have to get into it more in depth to give it a fair review.IMG_9684

Everyday Fashions of the Thirties by: Stella BlumIMG_9686I adore this book series (and own the voulmes on theens and twenties  since before), and it did not dissapoint. IMG_9688

Seventheenth-century Womens Dress Pattern part 1. by: Susan North & Jenny Tiramani.IMG_9689I finaly took the plunge and bought this book after at least a year of pining. And it is great – full of  pictures, patternsa and detailed skethes of lots of pretty and interesting costume pieces form this (for my part) un-discovered er.IMG_9690

Seventheenth-century Womens Dress Pattern part 2. by: Susan North & Jenny Tiramani.IMG_9694And while I was at it, I bought the second one too.IMG_9695

Reconstruction Era Fashions by: Frances GrimbleIMG_9700Already owning one of these big beauties I was suprised to discover this book was well past my expectaions. It contained so many and waried patterns and pictures of different items for the 1860s wardrobe.IMG_9701

Historic Costumes in Pictures by: Braun & schneiderIMG_9707
Perhaps you have encountered these types of books before – the ones that promises so many gorgeous drawings from all of costume history, but instead uses half of its pages for pre historic, military and national costumes. Don’t get me wrong – I love me some nice national costumes, but then maybe I could have bough a different book. There are however some lovely dawings of  both high and low fashions.IMG_9710

Creating Historical Clothes – Pattern Cutting from Tudor to Victorian Times by: Elizabeth FriendshipIMG_9704I own the mens version of this book and totaly adores it. And the womens version are just as great.
It is a pattern drafting book however, and recures you to have some knowledge of pattern drafting before hand.
IMG_9705And that was that.
Lets the summer reading begin…

New Patterns

This spring and early summer I’ve been indulging in some serious costume related internet shopping.
I’ve been bidding on the most awsome stuff on online auctions (some of which I already shown you here), but for this post I will focus on some of my new sewing patterns.

Lets start things of with some lovely 1950-1960s fashion.IMG_8424Stil nr 2079.

IMG_9281Stil nr 2560

IMG_9722Stil 1564. This one is about 3 sizes to big but I don’t think it is that hard to re-size it.

And some dresses.IMG_8544Simplicity 2963.

IMG_9743Stil 1975.

IMG_8376Simplicity 3069. This one is my favourite, I can defenetly se myself making the green one to wear to parties this fall.

Then some childrens pattern.IMG_9314Stil 8609.

IMG_9313Stil nr?

And a modern baby patternIMG_8547Burda 9636.

Lets move on to the historical patterns.

19th century underwearIMG_9312Simplicity 6769. I made the Chemise for the last HSF challenge from this pattern.

Regency gownsIMG_8293Simplicity 4055. And my yellow regency gown was made using this pattern.

16th century gownsIMG_9745Simplicity 3782. My dream of a Tudor/Elizabethin gown came one step closer with this pattern.

Ok, not historical (No, Westeros do not actually exist), but I couldn’t resist this “Game of thrones” pattern.IMG_9744Simplicity 1487.

Pretty impressive for somebody who use to draft all her patterns herself.

Well my indulgence didn’t stop there. So talking about Historical pattern, I also found some lovely reproduction ones from Neheleniapatterns.com, which all were to tempting to resist.

A Regency spencerIMG_9315Period Impressions 461

Some gentlemans waistcoats.IMG_9320Kannik’s Korner – Man’s Waistcoat

Gentlemens BreechesIMG_9317Country Wives – Narrow fall-front trousers.

Mens Regency coatIMG_9318Rocking Horse Farm – 1795-1820 jacket

A mens military uniformIMG_9319Rocking Horse Farm – Dragoon Uniform

And a late 18th century riding habitIMG_9316Nehelenia Patterns – 1790s Redingote

Well, that was that. Or at least the patterns.
I will show you my new costuming books next time.

sorting patterns & fabric

I must confess I’m really bad at keeping order amongst my sewing stuff.

I know it is impotant to be organized if you want to be efficient in your sewing, but sometimes it is so much more tempting to start that new project, then to clean and categorize the previous ones.

This habbit of putting stuff in piles, make it inevitable to once in a while do some serious sorting and cleaning in my sewing room.

And so I have.

I started with my patterns. Since I drafted most of my patterns on my own, they don’t come nicely folded and paced in plastic bags. Instead I needed to do all this categorizing myself.

I putt the patterns in different piles (historic, to use again, trash ect.) and tried my best to mach up all those lose pattern pieces.IMG_6221

When finished I’ve tossed about half of them, and sorted the other ones in paper boxes and binders, nicely labeled with year, measurments, and a quick sketch.IMG_6219

 Then it was time to deal with my somehow ever growing fabric stash.

I carried all the fabric boxes and bags into our living rom.IMG_6044

Then I started sorting the fabric in different piles (syntetic, linings, smal scraps, historic ect.)IMG_6045

Some of the piles got quite big. (You might recognize the pink cotton on top (HSF Pink), and the brown flowery cotton print (Sport Anglaise).)IMG_6046The pile for “to make historic costumes of”.

I also found some new fabrics that I’ve forgotten about.IMG_6422A golden patterned syntetic, the striped pistage green “leftover” from my regency gown, and a white striped curtain voile.

Then I packed all the fabrics in different boxes.IMG_7852This is the ones containing syntetics and are going down to the storage in our basement.

And my historic apropirate fabrics, got packed and stored close to hand in my sewing room wardrobe.IMG_7855

I also decided it was time to clean my iron.IMG_7856This cleaning method is the best I’ve ever tried (If you haven’t yet, you really should). You just rubb the white paste to the hot iron and then wipe it of with a cloth. The heat melts the paste and takes the burnt dirt from the iron with it when wiped clean.

How organized are you in your sewing?