HS(F)M 2015

The Dreamstress have decided to host yet another year of wonderful historical sewing challenges.
Only this year we will all (and most off all me) slow the paste down a bit and do the “Historical Sew Monthly“.

After some consideration I’ve decided to participate even this year – Oh, how am I kidding there was never any doubt…
But this year I will put up some ground rules for me to follow.

*Use stash first – I may need to buy notions and fabric such as buttons, cord or lining but I will use fabrics from my ever growing stash as much as possible.

* Don’t sweet it – If I can’t finish in time for a deadline, there’s no pressure, I will just post whenever I finish. – This also means I will not rush to complete thing in a slopy manner, but instead take my time and make everything as good as I can.

*Take time of from sewing – If the choice is between hanging out with friends/hubby/family or sewing, I will choose people every time.

Let’s present the challenges and what I intend to do with them for 2015.

January – Foundations:
Make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

18thCpannierI’m going for 18th century here and doing some panniers – probably a smaller version of the ones in the picture.

February – Blue:
Make an item that features blue, in any shade from azure to zaffre.

7f449c24f267568720b72a36903b2682I’ve started a 1790s Redingote in a light blue wool for the HSF 14 challenge 22: Menswear, but left it after some hard design decisions. This is the perfect excuse to finish it.

March – Stashbusting:
Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.

c06c34a182a07515aa4b3c486a835003I’m not completely sure about this one, but I’m thinking of making a Spencer  from a beige wool I’ve got laying around. There are really to less fabric for anything else, and I do need some  more outerwear, but I might as well go in another direction with this one.

April – War & Peace:
The extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace.

sisI’m thinking of making the famous striped 1914s dress that Mary wears in Downton Abbey the day they get the news of the coming war.
I got some leftover striped white/green cotton that would be great for this project.

May – Practicality:
Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone,even princesses, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in.  Create the jeans-and-T-Shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period.

5880ee0d1aa5d43db828e03caa587e55I’ve long been thinking about making a everyday regency dress from some green cotton sheets I’ve got, and this seems like a perfect opportunity

June – Out of Your Comfort Zone:
Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.

borchA few fellow seamstresses here in Sweden are all getting their 17th century dresses finished this year, so why not join in. I love to make a boned bodice and skirt for this challenge.

July – Accessorize:
The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.

bba904c5a7aa1a5222e9b051ebcf7186This challenge could be a lots of things. I’ve considered headwear, aprons, jewelry and shoes, but I think what I most need (and want) are some 1800-1860s chemisetts.

August – Heirlooms & Heritage:
Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations.

dalsland4This one is hard for me, since I don’t know anything about my ancestors, and there are none of my older relatives left to ask.
But considering most of the Swedish population heirs from farmers, I suppose that’s as good guess as any.
I will need some more research to determent what to make for this one.

September – Brown:
It’s not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colours throughout history. Make something brown.

gray1I got some brown wool/polyester blend that would look great as a late 19th century walking dress. Perhaps something along the lines of the suit Satin/Nicole Kidman wears in “Moulin Rouge”.

October – Sewing Secrets:
Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance).

Digital CaptureYet another one I’m not sure about. But I know I want to make a 18th century mourning dress this year, and this may be the chance to do so. And the secret?
You will just have to wait and see.

November – Silver Screen:
Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece.

movies_20_memorable_movie_queens_4I’ve wanted to make this dress (worn by Cate Blanchett in “Elizabeth”) since I first saw it, I already got the fabric, the pattern and the period undergarments for it – so now is the time (If I can brace myself for so long).

December – Re-Do:
It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges.

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I have honestly no idea on what to make for this challenge.
But since it is a whole year left until then, I’m sure I will figure something out.
After all, I got a pretty impressive list on “Want to make” this year…
(More on that in my next post)

HSF14 Round-up – did I make it?

In my last post I counted down everything I made through out the year, and now I will do the same for the challenges of the HSF14, to see if I managed to stick to the plan.
(sorry for the repeats)

In the beginning of 2014 I wrote down all the challenges to come and everything I wanted to make during the year. Then I puzzled and pieced it together, leaving some challenges empty to make room for changed costuming needs and different inspiration.

Lets take a look on what I sad I would do, and what I actually did.

 So, did I make it?

1. Make do/mend:

IMG_58311880s petticoat from two sheets.

IMG_4781Alterations on a 18th century jacket.

Complete: Yes
The first challenge had already ended when I did my list/plan, so it’s not quite fair, but I think I did pretty good.

2. Innovations

IMG_5851A 1880s corset made with busk, spiral steel and grommet.

Complete: So so
The corset was all but finished when the challenges was announced, and I did stretch the challenge dead line a bit to make it work.

3. Pink & 8. Ufo/Pdf

tumblr_m46pbhovqY1qadfhsPink: A  18th century calico jacket (this one depends on how I feel when I get the fabric (which is still in my inlaws basement)).

Ufo/Pdf: I’m not sure about this one, will have to wait and see. Hopefully I can use some of my stash, and perhaps do something for one of my sisters.

IMG_7814A pink 18th century Caraco jacket and pistage skirt.

Complete: Yes & Yes
I did managed to make a complete outfit for my sister on these two challenges.

4. Under it all
A  1900s S-shape corset.

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IMG_6400A 1900s S-shaped corset.

Complete: Yes
Dead on!

5. Bodice
I’m not sure about this one, will have to wait and see.

IMG_7594A 1900s brassiere.

Complete: Yes
Unfair since I didn’t had any ideas before hand.

6. Fairytale & 7. Tops/Toes

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A 1900s white gown, inspired from the “Ariel” design together with some real pictures, and a big lovely hat to match. I think I got the right fabric for this gown, and now that I got lots of lace as well, I should just go for it.

IMG_7024A white 1900s gown inspired by “Ariel

IMG_7439A 1900s picture hat, to be worn with the Ariel (later Camille) gown.

Compleat: Yes & Yes

9. Black/White & 10. Art
A 1780s white sateen skirt and the green striped gown in the painting. I already own the striped fabric, just need to find a nice white one for the skirt.

robe à l'anglaiseInspiration Painting 

IMG_8760A white skirt and a striped Angalise in the same fashion as the painting.

Complete: Yes & Yes

11. Politic
A regency roundgown. It don’t get more political then that…

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IMG_9131A yellow regency gown.

Complete: Yes – although technically I didn’t make a roundgown…

12. Shape/Support
A 1850s cage crinoline to be worn under the 1850s paisley gown

IMG_9571 a 1850s cage crinoline

IMG_9486A 1880s mini bustle

Complete: Yes, plus a bonus entry.

14. Paisley/Plaids.
 I have  two bedsheets in brown/paisley which I bought with a dress like this in mind.

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IMG_0218a 1850s paisley daydress

IMG_0406a 1880s paisley evening bodice

Complete: Yes

13. under 10 Usd
I think this challenge can be lot of things, like a chemise, a fichu, a hat or some other accessories. I will wait and see what I will need at the time. But I think it will have to be pretty quick and simple, since the next one will take some extra time.

IMG_9455a 1850s chemise from a bedsheet

IMG_9528a 1850s petticoat from two bedsheets

Complete: Yes, and a bonus entry.

15. Outdoors
A light blue 18th century redingoat. Love this one from “Festive Attyre“, and I do have  a pale blue, soft wool that would be perfect.

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IMG_1093a regency west.

Complete: No, not even close.
(I did started the redingote for a later challenge, but sadly never finished)

16. Termologi
This one can also be a lot of things, but I think I will do something easy since the “Outerwear” one will be big.

IMG_2197a pair of 18th century stays.

Complete: Yes – also not fair since I didn’t specify in advance, and I’m not sure you can call 18th century stays easy…

17. Yellow
Maybe a regency open robe like the one worn on the round gown for challenge 11. This depends on what kind of fabric I find.

IMG_2924a 1550s doublet in yellow wool.

Complete: No, even though I meant to do the open robe up until the last second. Then I found yellow wool and quickly changed my mind, and I did state that the outcome of this challenge would be based on what fabric I would get.

18. Poetry
Not sure yet, but thinkig of making a 18th century robe out of some flowery fabric I got. There will always be poems about flowers, right.

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IMG_3052a 1770s skirt/petticoat made to be worn over pocket hoops.

Complete: So so, not a complete robe, and not in the intended fabric, but 18th century and flower fabric it is.

19. HSF inspiration
I’m sure there will be lots of inspiration in the “HSF” folders by then, but right now I have no idea.

IMG_3248A pair of lace cuffs for my 18th century wardrobe

Complete: Yes – I’m quite a cheater making something so simple from a non specified challenge.

20. Alternative Universe
Maybe some steampunk or halloween dress. I like them both, but are not sure I will be able to make any of them.

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IMG_3359A greecian inspired Regency gown

Complete: No. Even though the Steampunk outfit got finished months before, and the 18th century Halloween gown was planed, but never executed.

21. Re-do
A easy one to do since you can make almost anything, but I will decide later on.

IMG_4148a white regency evening gown thous re-making: Black/white, Politic and Terminology.

Complete: Yes, once again not fair, since I didn’t specify.

22. Fortnightliers Choise (Menswear)
This depends on what the challenge will be. (Well, obviously).

IMG_4840A 18th century riding hat

Compete: So so – This was quite a cheat, since I had great planes for this challenge and only managed to finish the head wear.

– I did to try to get the 18th century riding habit made for this one. Unfortunately it took a bit more time then estimated and I will not be finished for at least another month (but I’m hopefully looking forward to one of the new challenges in the beginning of next year…).

23. Modern History
This one is difficult, since I usually don’t wear “strange” clothing. But maybe I can try some 1930s blouse or pant patterns. Or perhaps the lovely black dress from “True Blood”.

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IMG_4552A 1930s party dress.

Complete: Yes – Not quite a blouse, but almost.

24. Glitter
I’m thinking of making a 1920s party gown, maybe something I can wear on new years eve.

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IMG_4384A 1920s evening gown.

Complete: Yes – I will not wear it at New Year but otherwise I think I did pretty good.

Conclusion HSF2014:  Think I did very good.
It is really hard to plan a whole year ahead of time, and I suppose that’s why the spring challenges are more accurate then the ones from the autumn and winter months.
Even though I didn’t make every challenge according to plan, I’m still proud of myself for finishing the entire HSF14 race.

Now It’s time to look ahead to future sewing….

2014 sewing planes – how did I do?

2014 are at en end, and it is time to take a look at what this past year have brought – in terms of sewing.

A year ago I made a (quite long) list of all the projects I would like to make during 2014. I must say I did pretty well considered the amount of costumes I dream’t about doing.

Lets take a look…

January:

1880s Corset
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1880s ruffled petticoatIMG_5831

1880s evening dress
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February:

1901s S-bend Corset
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1770s Jacket and Skirt IMG_7731

Mars:

1900s Bust improver and corset cover
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1901 dress
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April:

1901s hat and dress
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May:

A 1780s petticoat and Robe Anglaise
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a 1810s regency gownIMG_9159

June:

a 1880s Bustle IMG_9489

A 1850s cage Crinoline & petticoat
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1850s chemiseIMG_9453

July:

1850s Daydress
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and a 1850s evening bodiceIMG_0402

1880s Steamunk outfitIMG_0665tumblr_m9ebbiQMJ11qa0f2qo1_500

August:

a 1810s velvet spencer
IMG_1093untitled

1770s stays IMG_2192

1780s Robe Anglaise
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September:

A 1550s doubletIMG_2951

October:

18th century robe Anglaise
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Regency evening gownIMG_3376

November:

white regency evening gownIMG_4145

December:

1930s dressIMG_4576

1920s partydressIMG_4383

Countdown:
This year I managed to make:
10 dresses
7 jackets/bodices
6 skirts/petticoats
4 support garments (bustle, bumpad ect)
3 corsets
3 hats
8 (and still counting) accessories

Not on the list:
I’ve also styled a few wigs and re-made several pair of pants, skirts, and two wedding dresses.
This year I also made some things I never tried before (but definitely will continue make) – baby clothes.

I also finally started a facebook page for this blog, where I will post lots sewing, costumes and progress pics.
Follow me at: www.facebook.com/blog.fashionthroughhistory

Not made:
Dress-silk-1887-White-Howard-Co_25-W_-16th-St_New-York-Met-358x500 5024_side_view   2012-10-06 14.01.54  8312358697_ce6e37752bmoulinred1Lorena4Lady_with_Apple_1527cream3h2_1991_6_1a,b10340_201454_mediumbw21
Some of the inspirations above will be transferred to next years “Wishlist”, and some will be filed in the “not as exited about anymore” file.

Well, what can I say, a year is a long time when it comes to planing and keeping an interest, and a short time when it comes to actually getting things done.

I’m however very proud of what I accomplished this year.

Gentle(wo)mans 18th century Riding Hat

For the HSF 22 – Gentlemen, I had some grand planes, but life happened and the project has been postponed till next year.

So instead I decided to make and submit the complementary accessory to the original outfit – A 18th century riding hat.

Some inspiration: tumblr_nh7flpLgEr1sivgcyo4_500

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To start, I bought a simple wool/felt hat at the local fashion store.hmprod

Then I drowned it completely in hot water, and forced it onto a acting hat block (a flower pot) and molded and pinned it to shape.IMG_4221 IMG_4223

I used some weights to make it hold its shape while drying over night.IMG_4224

When the hat had dried and the shape was set I pinned one of the side up and stitched it on. I then added a length of feathery trim I found in my stash. IMG_4806

I also added a piece of black satin ribbon and a small buckle to finish it of.IMG_4802

The finished hat:IMG_4815

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Just the facts:

Challenge: nr 22 – Gentlemen

What: A 18th century riding hat made from a regular fashion wool hat.

Notions: Thread, satin sash, 1 silver buckle and 80 cm of feather ribbon.

Time: Active time, maybe 30 minutes (24 hours if you count the drying).

Cost: 100 Sek (16 Usd) – 79 Sek for the hat, and the rest of the notions came from stash.

How historical accurate: Not really. Apart from the fact that black wool hast were common for riding attire, there is noting accurate about it.

First worn: Not yet, since this is part of a whole ensemble which is not yet finished.

Final thoughts: I can’t quite decide if I like it or not. It may be that it looks to “costumy” to be any good. But I guess I can always add more feathers.

This was such a fast and easy project that I cant help feel I’m totally cheating as the HSF goes, but at this moment I don’t care, I’m just happy to have something to submit as my final item to finish this years race.

1920s Glittery Robe de style

I’ve been set on trying my hand at 1920s fashion since the last challenge, nr 24 “All that Glitters”, was announced.

Not quite getting over myself to do the full straight/boyish figure, I settled on this design from “Fashion in Detail”IMG_4347

I drafted the pattern and started cutting the pieces from a lovely black cotton velvet I bought for this purpose.IMG_4229

The skirt are cut like a circular one, but using a square instead of a circle.
I originally planed to level the skirt and to hem it to be circular, but once cut I liked the square hem better. IMG_4238

I used some silver/glittery soft tulle, I got on sale about two years ago, as a second layer for the skirt.IMG_4231

IMG_4372Here you can see the shape of the square pattern, and the finished skirt hanging in tapered edges.

I pinned the dress together and put it on my dressform to get a view of how it would look
– And it looked hideous.

IMG_4338

I then tried it on, and the result was no better.IMG_4345

It was around here I really started to look for a dress to buy and wear at new years…

Determent to finish before the challenge deadline, I pushed on and stitched the dress together, aded the zipper, set the sleeves and neck facing, and marked the angel of the skirt.IMG_4368

It do looks better, but a mock up wouldn’t have hurt…IMG_4373

I finished of by shortening the sleeves a bit, cutting and hemming the skirt and making a belt out of some left over velvet.

The finished dress:IMG_4734

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A sneak a peak from the photoshoot:IMG_4391

Just the Facts:

Challenge: nr 24 – All that Glitters

What: a 1920s evening dress (sort of a Robe de Style)

Pattern: I drafted my own.

Fabric: 2,5 m black velvet, 2 m silver printed black tulle and scraps of black cotton for facing.

Notions: Thread, zipper, 2 hook and eyes and fusible interfacing for the belt.

How historical accurate: I’m not sure, but even though the fitted bodice are un-characteristic for the 1920s the style did exist. The construction methods are modern and the silvery tulle are also to modern. Conclution, maybe 4/10.

Time: About 10 hours

Cost: About 300 Sek (48 Usd) but I only spent about half since most of the fabric came from stash.

First worn: on dec 22 for photos. I planed to wear it for new years eve but I’ve changed my mind in the past few days.

Final thoughts: I actually like it much better now that it is finished, and I will deferentially wear it if I ever get invited to a 1920s themed party.

1840-1850s Winter Walk

Despite the lack of snow, me and my sister decided to dress in mid 19th century gowns and take some winter (if not Christmasy) photos.

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IMG_4643My sister is wearing the 1840s green plaid dress over my 1880s corset, a bridal hoop skirt, layers of petticoats and bloomers. Accessorized with an apron, bonnet and muff.

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IMG_4671I’m wearing my brown paisley 1850s dress over my regency corset, cage crinoline, petticoats, bloomers and wide sleeved shirt. Accessorized with a white bonnet, gloves and faux fox fur.

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IMG_4614Photo: Helen Eriksson

1930s Christmas dress – photoshoot

Yesterday I did my hair, make-up and put on my 1930s Christmas dress, for the photoshoot.

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IMG_4591Photo: Maria Petersson

I was a bit skeptical and a bit worried about getting any nice photos, since I didn’t like the fit of the dress at all.
But as my sister (photographer) said – “You seam to have lots of fun in this dress – perhaps you like it after all…”
And looking at the pics I can only say yes, I think I do.

1930s Christmas dress

You might have noticed my most un-regular posting this past week. The main reason for that are that I’ve been struggling to finish my by now late entry for challenge 22 – Modern history.

But now finally it is finished, and here comes a quick write up.

cfcc97cb2a0de7209ce391c4cccc995cMy inspiration pic.

I decided to make a 1930s dress using a lovely plaid fabric I’ve bought a few years ago for another project.

I cut the pieces on bias to get a nice layout of the plaids.IMG_4017

IMG_4022The cut pieces.

I’ve started this project about a month ago and since my last update, I’ve fixed some problems and encountered some new.

I took the skirt in a few more centimeters to give it a better fit. IMG_4299Some huge seam allowances before trimming.

IMG_4289 IMG_4285
So far so good.

I’ve pinned the zipper to the side seam and stitched it in place.IMG_4305

I redrafted and cut new sleeves, which now fit much better (not perfect though).IMG_4313

But what the heck is this!IMG_4318The bias cut of the slim dress make the zipper wobble and pucker something enormously.

I didn’t know what to do to fix it completely, but I ripped the zipper out, fussed on some interlining and hand stitched it back, making sure to shortening it as much as possible. It does look better but not near as good as it should.

I then finished the dress by stitching a bias tape to the inside of the neckline, hemming the skirt and making the belt and bow.

The finished dress:IMG_4348

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Just the facts:

Challenge: nr 23 – Modern History

What: a 1930s plaid dress

Pattern: I drafted my own based on the inspiration pic.

Fabric: 1,5 m of polyester plaid, 0,3m of white polyester satin and a scrap of black cotton velvet.

Notions: Thread, zipper, fusible interning, and bias tape used for facing.

How Historical accurate: So so. The look of it is about right, and the plaid is plausible but It should probably have been made in wool.

Time: Way to long! And its a miracle I finished at all with all the trouble I’ve had whit this dress.

Cost: Since everything came from stash it was practically free but If I would have bought everything new I probably have spent about 200 Sek (32Usd).

Fists worn: Dec 22 for a photoshoot. It was meant to be worn for Christmas, but I’m not totally convinced I can pull it of (guess I will decide after the photoshoot).

Progress and set backs – 1930s Christmas dress

I’d planed to be finished with the 1930s Christmas dress by now, but life, work and karma apparently do not approve.

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The good things:

IMG_4269I’ve cut the fabric for the dress and even though the plaid’s not perfectly matched I don’t mind as much as I thought I would.

IMG_4025The contrast between the darker plaid and the white satin for the sleeves looks great. I’m so pleased with this combination.

I have yet another week left until Christmas, and have all confidence I will finish in time.

The not so good things:

IMG_4248IMG_4265I must have had a black out while pattern drafting since I decided to skipp the waist darts and only use the side seams for waist shaping. You would thought 10 years of pattern making for my curvy body would have tought me something about proper fitting to my shapes. I’m currently busy shortening the bodice length and adding darts to both bodice and skirt.

IMG_4264Yet another blackout compelled me to rush through the making of the sleeves pattern and left me with cut out and sewn raglan sleeves fit for a 5 year old. Do it again and do it right.

My design decision to change the bow at the waist to a belt, turned out to be more trouble then anticipated. Since the only store in out town with good sewing notions recently closed, and I couldn’t find anything I liked to a reasonably price on the internet. Guess the bow will have to do. Perhaps I can ad a separate belt later.

hämta

 Lets get back to the sewing machine…