The Start of a war – Downton Mary’s Striped Dress (Part 1)

When going over the many ways on which I could go for the HSM15 nr 4 – War & Peace, I  remembered a project I’ve been dying to make for quite some time.
The striped dress The character Lady Mary wears in “Downton Abby”.  0x600The time period (1914s) was perfect for this challenge, and when I remember the striped cotton in my stash the decision was made.IMG_6454Thin, structured, white and green cotton fabric – leftovers from my 18th century “Artsy Robe a la Anglaise/Turque“.

I started by doing a dress studie – sketching down the basic look, special details for the pattern and all the materials. 20150502_111150

looking through my costuming book for a way to tackle the pattern drafting I found a sketch of a 1910s, high waisted slim skirt that would be perfect for this dress.20150502_111452Sketch from Janet Arnolds “Pattern of Fashion nr 2”.

I used the basic principle from Arnolds book and drafted the pattern to fit my measurements.IMG_6438

Then I made a mock-up and tried it on over my long line corset.
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And it was huge.
I’m still amazed of how much ease it must be in my modern pattern temples since I almost always end up with mock-ups about 10 cm to big.

I took it in everywhere about that much.
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Much better.
But still in need for some extra alterations, like smoothing out the darts and taking out a few cm from the length at the bodice back.IMG_6455Here you can see the way I took out the width at the seams and darts.

Once the pattern was adjusted it was time to cut the fabric.IMG_6459

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The back bodice being cut on bias and with the stripes carefully matched to he shoulders, sleeves and center back.

Before I started sewing I needed to be sure the collar was long enough to fit the neckline.IMG_6467Perfect match.

I sewed most of the dress on my sewing machine. 20150430_080119Sewing the bodice, skirt, sleeves and lining together but away from each other at this pont.

IMG_6503Making the placket for the skirts closure.

Once all the separate pieces was ready, I basted the front bodice to the sides, the bodice to the skirt and one sleeve to the sleeve-cap. And then I tried it on.
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Pretty good fit. The back is still to long (just to take some more out), and the bodice front was a bit to big.
I decided to take the width out at the bust seam.
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Pins to show where to make the new seam line.

When the fit was once more good, I un-picked the basting and marked the button holes. IMG_6500

Then I hand stitched the buttonholes,20150501_195031 and sewed the front pieces to the rest of the bodice (using the new seam-lines).

Once I had the bodice ready, I attached the lining to the neckline,20150430_075631cut he seam allowance, flipped it over and carefully pressed the edge.

Then I made the cuffs for the sleeves, and attached them to the bodice.IMG_6505

20150430_080953Now it is starting to look like something

To be continued…
(Because otherwise this would be an extremely long post)

The start of a War – Downton Mary’s Striped dress – studie

About the same time the challenges for the HSM15 was announced, I was sitting at home in my soffa, stitching and re-watching (for the third or forth time) “Downton Abby”.

I’ve always loved the striped gown Lady Mary wears in the very last scene of the first season.
Realizing how perfect it would be for the April challenge “War & Peace”, and that the perfect fabric already lay waiting in my stash.

So last a few weeks ago I started collecting images of the lady and her fabulous dress (and accessorize).downton460_1755730c

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images (1)What’s pretty obvious straight away are the change in hat and necklace, between the two times she wears the dress in the show. I love the “over the top” wide brimmed, flower-covered straw hat in this photo.

 My searches also led me to some fashion plates from the time, which I’m pretty sure would have been the inspiration for the dress from the costume designer.images (2)

images (3)Sorry for he small size.

I also found lots of people recreating this dress (It seem pretty popular – wounder why…)37e33d1bdc006046b9238d4844fd79cdLady Mary as a doll

1-DSC_0135And a modern interpretation. Love this so much!

Of course there’s also lots of costumers who re-created this dress, but if I post them I will feel the pressure of there beautiful creations so much more…

But this is the picture I decided to try to copie.0x600I’ve bought both the crocheted glows and the super long necklace.
The hat looks a bit intimidating, but I’ve collected the hat base, the flowers and the netting, and don’t think it will be that hard to get the right look.

The dress on displayd10283050e04121086e4765e2635ba73Here you can see the slim width of the skirt and the fact it’s gored all the way down.

downton_abbey_mary_dress_season_oneOn closer look we can see the proper way to close the dress – wit a placket hidden under the contrasting ribbon and front side dart/seam. This means the dress will be closed both with buttons (at enter front bodice) and with hooks and bars at the center side skirt (in a kind of lightning shape).

You can also clearly see that the dress is actually pale lilac & white in the stripes, and a darker lilac on the belt.

I was indecisive of what to do with the bodice back – would it be a center back seam? Darts? Something else?
Until I found this picture…17a9fa6259cc877505541e81efa36bc0Not from the back, but you can clearly see the stripes running on the bias. Of course! The back will be designed with the stripes meeting in a V at center back, running up to the shoulder and continue into the sleeves. So pretty and so simple.

I hopes Lady Grantham approves. images

Lady-Mary-Crawley-Downton-Abbey-GIFChears!

New patterns

My wove not to purchase so much fabric this year, are going according to plan (I’ve only cheated once (or twice if you count Buckram as fabric)).

What I didn’t take into account was the ever growing temptation to splurge on patterns instead…

Since I mostly make my own pattern (draft or drape) I just recently discovered the allure of already tested, well researched beautiful historical patterns. Who can resist them?

And into the rabbit hole we go…

Lynn McMasters 1850-1860s summer hatIMG_6474

Lynn McMasters 1860s BonnetIMG_6475Yep, I got some serious millinery planed.

Past Patterns mid 19th century staysIMG_6476By now you’d probably guest my next big project…

Truly Victorian 1865 Eliptical Cage CrinolineIMG_6477Yes, 1860s costume (followed by at least two crinoline appropiet events) coming this spring/summer.

Laughing Moon Wrapping front Spencer IMG_6478This wil be the year I make one of these (I hope)

Truly Victorian 1880s Hat Frame IMG_6479

Truly Victorian 1887 Alexandra BodiceIMG_6480Hopefully I can squeeze in (out?) an 1880s bustle outfit as well this summer.

Wearing History Edwardian BlouseIMG_6481

Wearing History 1910s suitIMG_6482

Wearing History 1879 Pompadour Dinner BodiceIMG_6483

Wearing History Smooth Sailing Pants and BlouseSmoothSailingPatternCover(Apparently I forgot to take a picture of this one, so here are one I stole from google)

Another of my recent buys are a drawing/Inspiration book which hopefully will keep all my costuming sketches in order – instead of on random scraps of paper and receipt.IMG_6487

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Here I can penn down both my sketches/ideas and fabric recommendation, event dates and what I will need to complete the outfit (shoes, glows, petticoats ect. IMG_6484

IMG_6485I even started on a sewing diary for each costume.

Now it’s back to sewing.

Edwardian Sisters

I love attending events with my sister/sisters.
It’s so great having a companion in this crazy costuming adventure.
Someone who love dressing up as much as me, and who gets the work and planing goes into making an historical outfit with all it’s accessories and seemingly uncomfortable pieces (non les putting it on).

IMG_6179So when she discovered she was free from work, and thous able to go to the 18th century “fika” in old town, I was so happy and immediately scrambled to find something for her to wear (because that’s what sisters do)

And since I was to wear Edwardian we decided that so should she.

IMG_6181Goofing around

 

The day of the event I arrived at her house, carrying both our costumes, in good time to get ourselfs ready.20150315_142515underwear selfie

We helped each-other lazing the corsets and button those buttons, and then we were of (only half an hour to late, ops).
I blame my sisters hair for taking to much time, but really, it just take a lot of time getting into all those layers.

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Gibson hairstyle

After saying our goodbyes to the others, we stopped for some quick photos of our costumes.
IMG_6201strip it baby…

Sis is wearing the newly made walking skirt, a modern blouse, over my 1880s corset and combined with a modern belt and a ribbon for necktie.IMG_6202

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I’m wearing my suffraget skirt, modern jacket, Edwardian blouse, 1900s corset and several accessories like a fur hat, modern fur shawl, elbow length opera glows, my black swiss-waist and an 1950s embroidered bag.IMG_6218

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IMG_20150315_181820Edwardian Selfie

19th century Spring Coffee in Old Town

Two weeks ago me and my sister attended a small gathering of historic enthusiasts for a “Fika” in the local “old town”.

Once me and my sister spent way to long getting ready, we took the bus to the location and hurried to catch up with the others.
We all invaded a small coffee shop, and caused a stir in the other guests who (as usual) wanted to take photos.

It was a lovely event and besides the historic clothes it almost felt like an ordinary “fika” with friends.20150315_153231

20150315_153239My sister looking fab, in her Edwardian outfit and Hairdo.

20150315_154639What’s that over there….?”

20150315_154611Sara (the initiator to this meeting) asked everybody to tell a bit of our costumes and we got the chance to really look at all the clothing and ask questions. Here is Sara in her gorgeous 1880s bustle ensemble.

20150315_154831Yvonne wore a colorful regency gown, paired with turban made from a shawl.

20150315_155723Those 18th century stays are to die for, and she paired them with a great plaid skirt, apron and of course appropriate head cover.

Then we went outside to chat some more and to take even more pictures.IMG_61961920s backsides

Both Denise (left) and Pernilla (right) are in my historic sewing group.
And they made their dresses just in time for this event (between studying and exams).
Pernilla also writes of this event on her blog “fashion of the days gone by”, read the post here.IMG_6174Let me just say how much I love both their outfits, and those shoes! OMG, I definitely need to get myself some 1920s styled pumps.

IMG_6172It was a bit chilly, so we all had our outerwear on most of the time.

IMG_6191Karin is showing her bloomers beneath her lovely plaid skirt.

IMG_6193Hair and hat detail

IMG_6176“Do my bum look big in this?” – Yes and I love it!

IMG_6198There was no end to Saras wardrobe – Here she’s wearing a Dolman, made from a Truly Victorian pattern, with the most delightful swoon to the back.

IMG_6183I’m not even sure what Dan is doing – lets just say he looks great in his red and white self made ensemble.
Ludwig looks as smashing as ever in newly made plaid breeches and well groomed facial hair.

IMG_6180Me and sis in our Edwardian gear.

IMG_6200Warm ad cosy in velvet and fur.

IMG_6189Gibson hair side view

IMG_6185The obligatory shoe shoot

Of course we posed for photos to. IMG_6160

IMG_6170Fashion from Regency too 1920s – all in one pic.

Thanks to everyone who attended, it was so nice meeting you all. And lets hope we can do this again sometime.

Gibson Hairdo

To really make your costume take you back in time you need the right hair.
So for the historical “Fika” I searched the web for a suited hairdo for my sisters 1900s walking outfit.

The answer was of course the “Gibson hair” – as portrayed by the artist Charles Gibson in the beginning of the 20th century.

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I’m not that good at reading picture tutorials, but thankfully we live in the age of youtube.

Using the video it was surprisingly easy to mold my sisters shoulder length hair into a somewhat recognizable Gibson girls hairstyle.20150315_134713More then halfway there.20150315_140003

And the finished hairdo.IMG_20150315_183352 She did get lots of compliments on the hair, and said more then once that she really liked how it tuned out,
and so did I.

Vintage Shopping in the Capital

This weekend me and a friend went to Stockholm for the movie premiere of the movie “Huldra”.

But before we needed to get ourselfs ready for the night, we headed down town for some vintage store browsing and a tiny bit of shopping.

First we visited the much talked about vintage store “Old Touch

20150320_151124_resizedJust the window display are to die for.
I totally understand why everybody recommend this store for anything vintage.

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20150320_151822_resizedThe gentlemen section

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20150320_152025_resizeda dress from the 1950s.

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20150320_153215_resizedIt seams I got some extra love for old shoes somehow.

Bags in plenty hanging on the walls, on the shelves and every other place where they would fit.20150320_152125_resizedTake a good look at that golden one, because it’s no longer hanging on that wall…

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Then, on our way home, we stumbled on the shop “Epok“, which caries everything you could possibly need from late 19th century to 1950s.

20150320_155509_resizedThis store was even more cramped, and every square inch was packed with stuff.

20150320_155512_resizedLace veils, collars and shawls hanging from the ceiling.

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20150320_155624_resizedHats on the walls.

20150320_160224_resizedA fabulous hat from 1910s.

Kristin found a dress from the early 1920s, and tried the skirt on20150320_155746_resizedThe skirt is in two layers, with lots and lots of decorative embroidery and sparkly pallets.

I bought myself a pair of crocheted gloves (for my next big HSM project), and a beautiful beaded party bag. It’s from the 60s, and if it wasn’t in such impeccable shape it could easterly be mistaken for something a lot older.20150321_194521_resizedI highly recommend a visit in to both of these stores.
But be aware, they’r both totally rabbit holes, where you can get lost for hours and emerge with a lot less money then when you entered.

Huldra – Movie (pre) Premiere

2 years ago I worked as the costume designer for the movie “Huldra – Lady of the forest”, which takes place in the deep northern forests of Sweden.
(you can red a bit more on my adventures during the shooting here: Huldra, Huldra- characters, Huldra – Working hard)

And now it is finally finished.

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The trailer looks awesome:
https://vimeo.com/84141668

(Official movie website: www.huldra.org)

I’m so happy there’s now a final product for all the hard work we all put in.10806415_750945241651004_3810141470368900492_nOn set, shooting the last couple of scenes.

And this weekend there was a big premiere/screening for everybody involved in the process of making the movie.

Which of course I had to attend.
So me and co costume designer Kristin decided to go (and to go in style – putting on that extra bling).
IMG_20150321_110330_resizedBathroom selfie.
left to right: Mirja – who does incredibly nail and make-up arts – cheek her out here,
Fanny – yet another amazing make-up artist, working in both fashion and theater make-up,
Me, and in front, my companion in costuming crime: Kristin – the most fab and well dressed person I’ve ever meet, who’s strong opinions on nature and women’s rights doesn’t leave anybody unaffected (she also have a great eye for clothing and a passion for historical rural costuming).

IMG_58531_resizedI wore my old new years dress, paired with boots and a crazy beautiful new vintage bag
(you can glimps the golden strap in this picture).

The theater was full and all 350 seats was taken, not just with people involved in the movie, but also lots of friends, family’s and professional movie goers aswell. 20150320_200819_resized

It was such a blast meting everybody again ( I can’t believe it’s almost been two years).

20150320_200810_resizedKristin and Fanny nervously waiting for the movie to begin.

Afterwards the director and the producer held a short speech, asking the leading actors onto the floor for applause.20150320_220852_resizedThen most of us headed to the after party.

Many, many hours later I finally got home.
Looking at the sunrise from my temporary bedroom window, realizing I’ve been partying for about 12 hours. 20150321_055655_resizedOps…
Well, it was so much fun, and totally worth the three hours of sleep I got before the bus was to take me home for real.

Since the only party pictures I got are either to dark or to blurry, I leave you with some nice and clear pics and screenshots from the movie.Huldra-screenshots00165

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10955798_781321845280010_4797106052030112291_nPhotos: Marcus Möller

What I thought of the movie?

Well, lets just say it was fun watching it all come togeter.
And that me and Kristin could feel really proud of our work – The costumes at least, looked great….