Re-working the Edwardian Brassiere

Lateley I’ve been bothered by the ill-fitting brassiere I made last week for the HSF 5 challenge (bodice).

And since I’m curently working on a dress to be worn over the brassiere, I figured I needed to take the time to re-work it.

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The brassiere needed to be let out a couple of cm in the sides, shortened at the waist and lowered both at the armcykles and neckline.

So this weekend I grabbed the seam ripper and got to work.

I started by removing most of the bias tape, and the boning.IMG_6654

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Then I cut the new neckline, armholes and waistline. IMG_6647

The side seams was being let out a bit, and I needed to make some additional bias tape to cover for the new and longer edges. IMG_6656

Then I shortened the boning and finishing of by sewing the bias-tape back on.

IMG_6657But it does look very nice. There are to much fabric at the top neckline.

So I tried it on.IMG_6671And pined away the exess fabric.

IMG_6677The shoulder straps need to be adjusted – re-shaped and shortened.

There was noting to do but to start ripping out the bias tape once more.

Finished:IMG_6679

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It is defenetly not my best work, but at least it does what it is supposed to.

The whole procedure took about two-three hours, but together with lots of over time at work, it unfortanly left me with only one week to start and finish my entry for the next challenge…

 

Wood, Metal and Corsets

As the 19th HSF challenge Wood, Metal and Bone past by I feelt I needed to make something a bit more challenging then the Suffragett brosches I finished just in time.

An with a regency event coming up swifty, I decided it was time to make myself the 1820s corset I’ve been wanting since I bought a wooden busk half a year ago.

Here are some inspiration pictures:

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And the pattern comes from the trusted Norah Waughs “Corset and Crinolines” – A 1820s corset.

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I bought 0,5m of cream colored cotton sateen, and found some plain cotton sheet for the linnig and interlinning in my stash.

I dafted the patten, made some changes to the sizing and made a mock-up.

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I needed to raise the cups 1,5 cm and take them in 2cm a the top. And lenghten the shoulder straps.

IMG_2181I also needed to add 4-5 cm to the back pieces.

After drafting the alterations on the pattern, I cut and interlined all of the pieces.

I sewed the bust and hip gores, the boning chanels and set the gromets on the back pieces.

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Then I started on the decoration.

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By now I feelt I was running out of time (this was just a couple of hours before the event) and I needed to decide which ones of the decoration seams was the most neccessary – regarding both prettynes and function, though to the strengtening quality of the stiching.

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Then I made and attached the lining and putt the boning in to the chanels. I used bias-tape to bind the edges, and put a drawstring into the bias-casing in the front of the corset. Making it adjustable over the bust.

I finished sewing just in time, since I straight away needed to hurry to get dressed and on my way.

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Just the facts:

Challenge: 19 – Wood, Metal and Bone.

What: A regency corset

Year: 1800 – 1830s

Pattern: Nora Waughs “Corset and Crinolines” – a 1920s corset.

Fabrics: 0,5 m of cream cotton sateen, 1 m of white cotton sheet.

Notions: One wooden busk, bias tape, thread, gromets, boning (cable-tie and plastic whalebone), lacing-cord and ribbon.

How historical accurate: Machine made with gromets and polyester thread. Butt the pattern, shape and the color are correct. Mabye 5/10.

Time: 10 hours (the evening before and the same morning as the event).

Cost: 200 Sek (22 Usd)(50 Sek, not counting stash).

First worn: On 28 sep “Mickelsmäss” (celebration of the harwest) where I was part of the dancing entertainment.

Final toughts: The corset do what it is supposed to (bust-wise), but I’ts not that comfortable. I almost got a cramp in my side/waist sitting in it for two hours. Mabye I need to change the fit.

White Edwardian Undies

When the HSF Challenge 15 – White, was announced I decided to make an Edwardian S-shape corset (about 1900s) and maybe a chemise. But at the moment in all the crazy Francaise a la merteuil and Anglaise of satin trouble I had to much on my mind to really take the time to think about it and make a plan.

And then the “Titanic exhibithion” showed up, and I suddenly needed to get myself a 1910s corset instead.

You may think that there’s only a smal differens in shape in the 10 years, but look at this…

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An Edwardian 1901s-shaped corset and a later streamline 1911s underbust corset.

For this challenge I actually did my research and took the time to look at, and read about the range of 1910s corsets out there.

After studying some pattern and pictures I decided to use Waughs under bust “1909 corset” patten.

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I drafted and changed the pattern to fit my shape and then cut a mock-up.

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It fitted surprisingly well, and only needed to be lenghten at center back, and taken in a bit on the hip and butt – so I’d be able to adjust and tighten it even more over the bum.

I searched the stores for some white on white brocade but had to settle for this cotton/polyester blend.

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Altough beautiful I think it’s too white, almost hurt the eyes. And with the polyester content I didn’t want to try dye it to soften the color. So – bright white it is.

I used ordanary cotton fabric for interlining and lining. And cut them all out as one.

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Bias tape boning chanales from the inside.IMG_0066

And from the outside.IMG_0068

I used heavy duty cable-ties for boning the corset, and some metal pipe-cleaners for the lacing in the back.

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I made some bias-tape out of the same white cotton used for lining to cover the upper and lower edges. And as a finishing touch I added some white lace.

I also need to admit that I kind of cheated a bit on this challenge…

Since the rules of the HSF states that an entry can’t be finished more than 1 month before the challenge is due, and I needed to use this corset more than 3 weeks before. I deliberatly left out the suspenders of the corset and only sewed them on until the very last minute, hence finishing it whitin the time limits.

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And finished:

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Just the facts:

Challenge: 15 – White

What: A 1909 corset

Year: 1909 – 1920

Pattern: Waughs “Corset and Crinolines”

Fabric: 0,5m white polyester brocade, 1m white cotton fabric for lining and interlining.

Notion: Thread, busk, gromets, bones (Cable-ties and pipe-cleaners), self made bias-tape, 1m lace, 2 suspender-grips and 0,4m elastics (for suspenders).

How historical accurate: Sewing machines was in use during this period, and the pattern and silhouette and color are correct. The polyester thread, fabric and lace are not. So I say 50%

Time: 10 hours

Cost: 300SEK (33 Euro)

First worn: On the photoshoot begining of July, and then on the Titanic exhibition the day after.

Final toughts: After shortening the front boning about 4cm it became much more comfurtable and I could even sitt properly in it.

I also have some problems figuring out how to attach the suspenders to the socks without messing up the petticoat.