Re-working the Edwardian Brassiere

Lateley I’ve been bothered by the ill-fitting brassiere I made last week for the HSF 5 challenge (bodice).

And since I’m curently working on a dress to be worn over the brassiere, I figured I needed to take the time to re-work it.

IMG_6578Before

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The brassiere needed to be let out a couple of cm in the sides, shortened at the waist and lowered both at the armcykles and neckline.

So this weekend I grabbed the seam ripper and got to work.

I started by removing most of the bias tape, and the boning.IMG_6654

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Then I cut the new neckline, armholes and waistline. IMG_6647

The side seams was being let out a bit, and I needed to make some additional bias tape to cover for the new and longer edges. IMG_6656

Then I shortened the boning and finishing of by sewing the bias-tape back on.

IMG_6657But it does look very nice. There are to much fabric at the top neckline.

So I tried it on.IMG_6671And pined away the exess fabric.

IMG_6677The shoulder straps need to be adjusted – re-shaped and shortened.

There was noting to do but to start ripping out the bias tape once more.

Finished:IMG_6679

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It is defenetly not my best work, but at least it does what it is supposed to.

The whole procedure took about two-three hours, but together with lots of over time at work, it unfortanly left me with only one week to start and finish my entry for the next challenge…

 

Edwardian Brassiere

When I had finished the Corset Cover for the HSFs 5th challenge – Bodice, I decided to make yet another entrance.

I’ve been thinking of making an Edwardian Brassiere for quite some time, thinking they look both funny and nice at the same time. And being sure it would help give that strange S-bend shape and pigeon bust of the early 20th century, I decided now was the time.

f6e27b4fd05f29ee287551437c04b1d5My main inspiration.

Since I didn’t had any pattern I decided to drape one one my dressform.

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In the end I decided to get rid of the front dart, taking out the width in the side seams instead.

IMG_6475Cutting the pieces from a regular cotton sheet.

I cut the front piece in dubble layers and basted them toghether.IMG_6492Starting on the boning chanels.

I placed the chanels like in my inspiration pic, and stiched them using the “little metal thingy” to get nice and even spaces in between.IMG_6504

After finishing the crossing chanels, I restitched the outer corners of the cross using smal stiches.IMG_6508

And then removing the stiches inside to make nice crossing boning chanels.IMG_6525

Then I made the buttonholes and put on the buttons.IMG_6521

IMG_6522Pinning the biastape.

IMG_6538Brassiere laying flat on the floore.

Finished:IMG_6526

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Just The Facts:

Challenge: 5 – Bodice

What: A 1900s Brassiere.

Pattern: I draped my own.

Fabric: 0,5m cotton beed-sheet.

Notions: Thread, 3 m self made biastape, 7 buttons and 5m syntetic whalebone.

Historical accuracy: It’s okay. The “pigeon”shape is not as dominant as it should be, but other than that it does look the part.

Time: 4 hours

Cost: About 100Sek (16Usd)

First worn: Not yet, (but I’m currently working on a dress ment to go over it…)

Final thoughts: I’m already thinking about going back and rework it a bit – shortening the sides 1-2 cm and making the whole thing a tad bigger, to get a better fit. Other then that, I think it looks really nice and I love that it went together so easy.

Edwardian Corset Cover – inspiration

Lately I’ve been looking at a lot of turn of the century brassiere and corset covers.

I’ve found several different styles and thought I would share them with you before finishing my “Bodice” entry at saturday.

First some 1900-1915s lose and Lacey corset coversil_570xN.372596621_nsjh

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8b12fb47c321775ca50fa277c9978fa1Pattern 3 different verions.

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And a few tight fitting ones from a couple of decades earlier.tumblr_lmqr0dRFnv1qegasto1_500

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Then we continue with the old time brassiere.1912 pigeon waistThis add really tells us a lot about the fashionable form. (and look they had full refund to).

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4181b6bad6ddead954e6d6429954440dPattern for “Brassiere”

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imagesLong version

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d73c5d25ea22da776846f91728953d87And a super cute short one.

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54edff7251aa8afdf72c75901d033627This faux boobs are hilarious, but I can really se the need for them in order to achive the sometimes extrem hourglas shape of the time.

And let’s finish of with some kind of hybrid between corset and brassiere..7d346e18bb116bef4814baf4863318f6

I also noticed that “Wearing History” seems to be working on a simular project – check it out, it is facinating.