Fashion School Graduation Collection 2006

It’s been 9 years since I finished fashion school.
A lot has happened since then, but I thought to share my Graduation collection with you.

The theme for the collection was “Myth and Fairytale”
And I named my collection “Dream of Venus” – I know , So cheesy, but I was only 18 back then.

Dream of Venus

We was asked to make a inspiration collage, from which we was to take colors and shapes to paint 15 fashion sketches, and produce/make 5 complete ensembles

IMG_0030My Inspiration collage

IMG_0033The colors I choose was blue, turquoise, white and gold.

Here are the five designs I decided to sew for the final fashion show.venus 11Halterneck dress

venus nr6Jacket and skirt

venus 2Halter top and floor length skirt

venus 7Jacket/cape and pants

venus 8Strap-less dress
We were assigned classmates to sew for and during 4 weeks we worked diligently to finish all the pieces in time for the fashion show.

My collection at the final fashion show:2E0X2737

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kjol-o-topp-modell

kjol_m_slits

byxor-och-jacka-modell - Kopia

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Looking back at it I think I did pretty good.
Of course there are lots of things I would do differently now, but I learnt a lot working on these pieces and I still love the pre-made two toned viscose fabric.

Blog Awards!

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Wow!
What can I say – Two award in one week!

Last week the wonderful Crystal from “Adventures in Biastape” nominated me to “Sisterhood of the World Blogger Award!”, and this week lovely Catherine from “Catherine the Teacher” does the same.

I’m just so happy and humbled by these ladies kindness and support of my work/blog.
Thank you so much!
I really appreciate it (and I love reading your nice comments to my post and projects every week:-))

To claim the award/awards I need to follow the rules and:
1. Thank the blogger who nominated you, linking back to their site
2. Put the Award logo on your blog.
3. Answer the 10 questions sent to you.
4. Make up 10 new questions for your nominees to answer
5. Nominate 10 blogs.

And since I got two awards I should probably double it…Right?
I normally don’t pas on chain-letters and similar stuff, but I’m willing to compromise a bit on this one.

So, I will nominate a total of 10 blogs, and come up with 10 new questions.
And since answering these kind of questions are pretty fun, I will try to do both Crystals and Catherines questions here below. So prepare for a long post..
That seams quite fair I think.

But first, here are my nominees:

1. Sarah – A Most Peculiar Mademoisell
2. Caroline – Anno 1776
3. Isabella – All the Pretty Dresses
4. Merja – The Aristocat
5. Caroline – Dressed in Time
6. Cathrin – Katafalk
7. Elisa – Isis Wardrobe
8. Nora – The Shadow of My Hand
9. Liz – The Pragmatic Costumer
10. Vienna – The Austrian Woman
Lots of Swedes in there, but these are the blogs/and people I feel all do some tremendous work in both blogging and costuming.

And my questions:

1. How did you start sewing Historical/or other costumes?
2. What other tings do you do then sewing/creating?
3. What item/project that you made are you the most proud of? (may we see pictures?)
4. Do you have a secret shame item/project that you will share? (Pictures?)
5. Do you prefer Books, You-Tube videos or other, for sewing reference? And which are your favorite one/s?
6. Whats your best sewing tip/trick?
7. What’s your biggest sewing cheat that you do but you know that you shouldn’t?
8. What’s you biggest inspiration in deciding on up-coming projects?
9. Do you have a favorite era/style that you do?
10. What is your dream project? (Picture/s please)

Ok, time for some answers:

Crystals Questions:

1. Why is your blog named what it is?
Everything else I tried was occupied. No, but really, I had lots of ideas, but non was vacant, or they would convey the wrong message. And being un-patient as I am, I just ran with the first thing that worked.

2. What made you decide to start blogging?
The Historical Sew Forthnightly” 2013 – I read everyone else’s blogs and loved it.
Then, when Leimomi (the hostess of “The HSF”) picked one of my project as her favorite and linked to my (only) picture, I knew I needed a blog.
63268_10200634023514639_769913574_nAnd now it has it’s own post! Yay!

3. What do you enjoy most about blogging?
I love how you have all your knowledge in one place. You can go back and take a look at previous projects and learn from past mistakes. I usually look through my “Portfolio” when deciding what to wear to an event – so much faster then going down to the basement.
I also love sharing my pictures of both costumes and events, and of course all the nice/smart/funny comments I get from my readers.bild 1

4. On average, how much time do you spend sewing?
Having a full time job, I don’t have the time (or energy) to sew as much as I like, but I usually spent an average of 10 hours a week sewing – ca 1-2 hour/s in front of the TV each night, and at least a couple of hours at the weekend.
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5. Of your favorite eras, do you prefer having patterns pre-made or making your own?
I usually make my own pattern (from any era), I either drape or draft the patterns using pattern templates and my dressmaking books as guides.
I used to think it was hard using bought patterns – not knowing the makers thoughts when drafting.
But lately I’ve been trying out some ready-made pattern which all worked great.IMG_5030

6. Speaking of favorite eras, which one is yours and why?
Oh, this one is always the hardest question to answer, since I love them all so much, and it wary from day to day.
But I must say mid 16th century will always be in my heart – Since that what’s got me into costuming. I love the structured aesthetics of female fashion with its abundance of decoration but without flimsiness – I guess it speaks to my modern sensibility.Catherine_ParrCatherine Parr (6th wife of Henry VIII)

7. What is the most unconventional object used in a previous project? (Either in the making of, or actually in the item)
Hm, I’ve used Duck-tape, hot glue gun and plastic zip-ties.
But I think they looked at me the strangest at the hardware store when I bought metal pipe-cleaners (and heavy duty pliers to cut said metal) to use in my 1850s Crinoline.
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I also must confess: My tool box (which I keep in my sewing room) is bigger then my boyfriends.

8. Describe your ideal sewing area.
Big! Preferably the whole house…
No I’m kidding, even though I tend to use about every room in our (big) apartment for sewing – You know, pattern drafting at the kitchen table, fabric cutting on the living room floor, hand-stitching in the sofa before the TV and trying out mock-ups by the hallway mirror.
Whats the fun in being caught up in your sewing room…?
IMG_4980Using the whole living room and hallway floor for fabric cutting. (1880s Evening Gown)

9. Care to share your favorite sewing tip/trick?
I always work on all the pieces of a garment at the same time:
Pinning everything, then stitching and finally pressing everything in one bunch, then back to pinning once again. And on and on it goes until I finish the garment with hand-sewing.
Working like this makes it go so much faster then working one seam/piece at the time. I do however need to know where I’m going with everything right from the start, as I often finish the sleeves before the bodice, and the lining is ready and waiting even before the final fitting.
IMG_5147The sleeves, “skirt” and buttons were all ready and waiting to be attached at this stage. (1770s Caraco Jacket)

10. Coffee or tea? Plain or doctored?
Neither.
Here in Sweden it’s considered strange (and a bit childish) not to drink Coffee, but I can’t stand the taste. When it comes to tea it’s basically the same – I do however drink it “when etiquette calls for it”, but I just rather have a glass of water.

Catherine’s Questions:

1. What type of music and/or movies do you like to have on while you work (work = sewing/creating art)
I usually watch TV-series on my computer when doing my hand sewing, preferably historic dramas.
This year I’ve gone through all seasons of: Game of Thrones, Downton Abby, The Tudors (I know, I know, sorry), The Borgias, Mr Selfridges, Outlanders and Marco Polo, among others…3f17ccdefb5208a7d3dd2d569c5e3009“Mr Selfridges”
The trick is to re-watch.
Then you already now what’s happening, and can focus on your work while listening and only catching a gimps now and then.

2. What gives you the most satisfaction while working on a new project?
Progress!
I’m what they call a “project starter”, and sometimes have a hard time finishing one thing before moving on to the next. This makes my head over run with ideas, and my cutting table full off fabric and pattern piles for upcoming projects.
So fast, and easy to spot progress, makes me really happy, and make it feels like I’m really getting somewhere (See question 9 above).IMG_2471I love putting my projects on my dressform to see how they’r coming along. (1550s Doublet)

3. What inspires you the most when you are mulling over what to create next?
Pinterest!
And my own fabric stash (and sometimes the fabric stores stash).
It’s when those two comes together that magic happens, as they say.
It’s like “Hey! I have that fabric!” and then I’m of…
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1914s Summmer dress)

4. Does it bother you if your pet lays on your fabric, paper etc while you are trying to work? And what are your pet(s) names?
Well, since I don’t have a pet (only a boyfriend), It does sometimes bother me when he lays on my work for attention, especially if I’m on a tight deadline.
But other times, not so much…
lkpg halvmaraAnd his name is Johan 🙂

5. How long ago did you get involved in your hobby?
As a kid I was a really creative drawer/painter, and flooded my room (and my parents) with paintings. I can sill draw, but now a days I don’t have time to work at it as much as I used to.
I started sewing in “Gymnasiet” (upper high school) about 14 years ago, where I attendedfashion & sewing school“.  syhörnan tyllbergMe, working on a costumers ball gown about 6 years ago.
I’ve always been interested in history, but Historic costuming is relatively new to me – I only started 4 years ago, after some sporadic previous try’s.
I think it was when I discovered “The Historical Sew Fortnightly” I really started to develop an interest in costuming and getting everything “Right”.
(Thanks Sarah of “A Most Peculiar Mademoiselle”, for introducing me to this obsession ;-))DSC_0189My very first 16th century gown, which I loved back in 2008. (1530s Tudor Gown)

6. What is the ultimate garment that you yearn to create?
A perfectly flawless 1550s Gown including accessories – Something I will never afford, or manage to do, but a girl’s got to dream…
I just adore Izabela of “A Damsel in This Dress” Tudor gown.

7. What has been the mistake that taught you the most?
I make so many mistakes all the time (and always learns a lot), I’ts hard to choose just one.
Perhaps it’s one of the events I went to last year – The Historic Multi Era Picnic, were I put so much effort into everything being perfect for me and my sister, that I ended up totally exhausted and really cranky instead of just relaxing and having a good time.
So now I try to put some of the pressure aside and not fretting over every detail ( I said try.)
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8. If you have any advice for someone just starting out in the hobby, what would it be?
Oh gosh there are so many – You know, always press, baste, measure and take your time etc.
But I would say – learn to make it right, so that you then can learn how to cheat.
And also – Don’t be afraid of starting over or doing it wrong – just use cheap fabrics in the beginning. IMG_6233I spent half a day trying to pattern a 1860s bonnet before I realized it just wouldn’t work. (1860s Bonnet)

9. Who has been the biggest inspiration and/or mentor when working on projects and/or keeping you motivated?
Everyone on the historic blogosphere.
But most of all I’ts been Leimomi of “The Dreamstress” for bringing everyone together in “The Historical Sew Fortnightly“, where I love to show of my creations.
I also owe a great debt to Sarah of “A most Peculiar Mademoiselle” for getting me into historical sewing.
And I love to read and marvel over Izabela of “A damsel in This Dress” and Lauren of “American Duchess”  for their never ending inspiration and impeccable sewing skills.red-dress-and-shoesI soo need a red Robe Anglaise now… (Picture from American Duchess)

10. If you could attend any event (historical or otherwise) what would it be and why?
Such a hard one, but I would love to go to Costume College one day, to see all the fabulous people/dresses and attend all the classes I’ve can only dream of here in Sweden.
Poster for CoCo 2015

The Day of the Big Crinolines (part 2)

Here comes the rest of the pictures from “The Day of the Big Crinolines” (part 1).

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As the day progressed we walked round the old town of Gamla Linköping, visiting small shops and gardens, taking lots of photos and buying some new stuff.

IMG_6950_zpsylgylebbMaud, in the sun with her new umbrella/parasol.

IMG_6963_zpss9mca16nMaria, with her Southern American flair.

IMG_6968_zpspbttdfzlFan fighting!

IMG_6971_zpsan5eysn1Ladies walking of to the distance…

IMG_7000_zpsf8k5b5llSara of “A costuming Engineer” in her stunning new 1860s gown.

IMG_7008_zpssnolbt4j Clara reading “the bible” in the shadows.
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IMG_7047_zpsyggjftd3I love the color and shape of Claras bonnet, and she matched it perfectly with the lilac in her dress.

IMG_7007_zpsmror4nbkOne giant skirt on the bench…
IMG_7050_zpsitylkd9b…four giant skirts on the bench.

IMG_7096_zps0svyljhbOh naughty! 

IMG_7097_zps55ommnbgLove this flimsy, of focus photo – that’s what the whole day felt like.

IMG_7106_zpsng69pnzcPernilla and Denise in their lovely new cotton dresses.

IMG_7110_zpse1huickePernilla (in red) was my co-arranger to his event, and an angel at making everything work out perfectly.

IMG_7119_zpsajm1ysn8Such a great color on Denise.

IMG_7137_zps3jkouzcsI love the sheer fabric on Pernillas bonnet.

On the town square we ran into the patrolling policeman, and convinced him to join in some photos.
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20150613_154632_resized“Hm, you are very strange madam…”

When the shops closed (and the tourist headed home), we all went to the old times skittle-alley for some resting and playing in the shadows.

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IMG_7185_zpsfjtvuw9hBarbaras jacket are made out of a tablecloth, can you believe it.
The whole outfit looks so smashing.

IMG_7168_zpsvpkvdogjHelena’s playing ball…

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IMG_7182_zpsy3xhu9alStrike! Eh, No…

IMG_7259_zpspmzu8pprJust general fooling around.

Some of the guest devoted them self to reading “the bible” – Not really
(they’r watching the live streaming from the royal wedding).IMG_7190_zpstcswkhxu

IMG_7208_zpsqxka5zcyGroup-pic – with some added and some lost through out the day.

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IMG_7240_zpsd4ewzssgNewlyweds – Congratulations again!

We ended the day with a nice dinner at an beautiful old restaurant next to were we sat.
The food and the company was great, but we were all a bit exhausted by the long and hot day.
Then it was time to say goodbye.

Hopefully we’ll be able to do this again next year.

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IMG_7255_zpsbtj0ms0iJust awesome!

***

I probably should have stopped at the crazy group picture, but since this is my blog/account of the day, I will also show you the les glorious pics from after we said our goodbyes.

At the buss ride home, hot, tired and sweaty, I encounter my other sister – all fresh and styled for a night on the town.
I just had to do a un-glamours bus-selfie.  20150613_203506_resizedAfter a long day of costuming in the sun…

Once home I finally got to take the boots of, and take a look at my sad feet and socks – the blisters will stay for quite some time I’d wold think, but mu bellowed stockings are lost to all hope of saving.
20150613_212113_resizedGoodbye my friends, We had some good times together.
You could make any historical costume look better and would always stay in place (above the knee) even without garters.
I will miss you, and have a really hard time replacing you.

The Day of the Big Crinolines (Part 1)

So, it finally came – “The Day of the Big Crinolines”, that I’ve been preparing for all spring.

Stora krinolindagenThe Event poster made by Helena, using one of the pictures of my paisley gown.

The day was a collaboration with “Gamla Linköping” and “Svenska 1800-tals sällskapet”.

As a one of the hosts for this event I’ve put quite some work into getting it perfect.
Together with Pernilla from “Fashion of the days gone by” I talked to “Gamla Linköping” (the outdoors museum where the event was to be held) about help with publicity, booking the outdoors dance-floor and using their dressing-room among other things.
We had discussions with the historic dance team (to make hem do a dance show and a short dance course), with the “Historic costume group” for a fashion show and with several well read historic re-enactors for a small lecture on the fashion of the day.

At the end we only managed to get the dance team – who did a great job and was really appreciated by the participants of the day.
(Maybe next year we will be able to book some more entertainment and lectures…)

Besides planing the event itself, I’d worked on getting both me and my sister properly dresses.
Something I finished with just in time.IMG_7094 My sister is wearing her new 1860s ensemble including her blue Skirt, white Shirt, blue Hat and black Swiss-Waist, paired with a bridal petticoat, bloomers, stockings, lace up shoes, and black lace mitts. 
I’m wearing my new 1850s ensemble of plaid Dress, green silk bonnet, cage Crinoline, Corset, petticoats, bloomers, lace up boots and a clock in a chain at the waist.

The event was a big hit and lots of lovely people from different parts of Sweden joined in.
We even got our own full page in the local newspaper.
IMG_7331Yes, it’s me in the big picture – the reporters caught me of guard, and convinced me to both answer some questions and to pose for them. They even caught some of it on tape – read the whole article and watch the interview (in Swedish) here.

Enough talking, on to the pictures…

We started the day by gathering all the attendant at the town square.IMG_6857_zps0p4obyy9awaiting some more people…

IMG_6861_zpsosyyobjyPerfect lilac picture dream

IMG_6860_zpsrcjtpnodStaying cool in the sun

IMG_6862_zpskaq0xb4wA bustle at the Crinoline day was of course also welcome

IMG_6863_zpsmfo3vckrComing back from the interview (with the two reporters trailing behind).

Then we went to the outside dance-floor to talk a bit and to get to know each-other, since there was a lot new faces for all of us.  IMG_6865_zpsoqdi9hrdYou can see the reporters lurking in the background 

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IMG_6867_zpsvgjv4sh2Clara, Maria and Engla in three quite different styles of 1850-1860s dresses.

Then we went for a short walk to some greenery, to have our picnic lunch. IMG_6874_zpsz1rfhfzeEva, with her super modern fruit – the pineapple

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Then we headed back to the dance-floor to watch “Folkungagillets historic dance team” perform.
And for some of us – join in the performance…IMG_6884_zpsxffywhld

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Here’s a short film of one of the dances:

Then everyone was invited to join for a a few group-dances and some polka.

Afterwards, one of the dancers helped me take some pictures of my dress in the nice light of the dance-floor.IMG_6917_zpsgoaummcb

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One of the people who came to watch the public dance show was my friend Annica (who is an expert dancer) and I got to dance some polka with her. Yay!IMG_6924_zpsyd38oss6

IMG_6892_zps8zpctidwBustle glory.

After the dancing some of us headed of to get some cofee, or “Fika” as we say in Sweden.IMG_6926_zpszlw8kxaa

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And asked one of the photographing tourists to take our picture.
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IMG_6935_zpsqo7hrqghMy (quite dramatic) shadow

IMG_6938_zpsl8yupwpnVisiting some shops

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To be continued…

1850s Plaid Summer Dress – Photoshoot

Since I didn’t finish the dress until the night before the event, me and my sister took a few minutes away from the others to document my dress at the day itself.

I’m wearing: My new Plaid 1850s Summer dress (part 1, 2 & 3), green silk Bonnet (part 1 & 2), my cage Crinoline, 1880s corset together with chemise, petticoats, bloomers, stockings, lace up boots and a clock on a chain at the belt.

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IMG_7086_zpsh3pbcy38Photo: Maria Petersson

1850s Summer dress (part 3 – Bodice/finished)

Before I could continue on my 1850s dress bodice, I needed to decide on weather or not to do the gathers (part 1 & 2).

To help decide I posted the question n my facebook wall, and in my historic sewing class, and the answer was unanimous – Do the gathers.

With no time to argue, I got to work, testing the draping on my dressform.
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Using three gathering threads to test the draping on the dressform.

The shoulders being tamed and arranged by two treads of gathering stitches that later is to be hidden in the shoulder seam.
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I was not totally happy with the first try at waist gathers (using three threads) so I decided to re-do it using threads every 1-1,5 cm or so.
IMG_6763Testing the gathers.

Once I was happy with the technique I pinned and basted the lose front piece to the bodice, carefully matching the  tightness of the gathers to hide the darts.IMG_6767

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Then I pulled all the treads through and secured them on the back side, before I stitched the whole piece down using hidden slip stitches. IMG_6839You can see the right side being finished while the left still have all the threads hanging lose.

And then I left it for a few a few weeks, fully occupied by working on my sisters 1860s outfit, training for my big running competition and preparing for vacation on work.

Once I finished all the other things and finally gotten my (well deserved) vacation I once more took on the task of finishing the bodice.

With only one day left to work on the dress before it was to be used, I need to hurry.

20150612_105845_resizedThis is how I found the bodice once more the day before the event – When I decided to give it a try, and finish it.

With no time to lose, I pinned and sewed the sleeves together and added them to the bodice using gathering threads at the sleeve head, before turning under 1 cm and hemming them at the wrist20150514_125842Pattern matching the sleeves

Then I hand stitched the boning channels to the sides, back and darts, and inserted cable tie bones cut to the right length.

I added a placket to the front edge for the clouser, and pined bias-tape to the neck and bottom edge. IMG_6843

Turning the bias tape at the neck down and securing it at shoulder and back.IMG_6848

I stitched and turned over the bias-tape at the waist, and slip-stitched it to the inside lining to make a smooth and clean finish.IMG_6850 IMG_6852

late at night I marked the placement for the hooks and eyes, but I never had the time to finish them before I needed to hurry to catch the buss to the event.20150612_230034_resized(Instead I pinned it shut)

I also added bias binding to the sleeve edges

Outside and inside of the “finished” bodice:
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IMG_7294I didn’t had time to ad the clouser to the front (Edit: Now it’s done).

The finished dress:IMG_7261

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The Facts – Bodice & skirt:

What: A 1850s summer daydress

Pattern: I drafted my own using Janet Arnolds ” Pattern of Fashion” and Nora Waughs “Cut of Womens Clothes”.

Fabric & Notions: Thread, 5 m of light weight plaid cotton, 0,5 of regular white cotton, 1 m cotton tape for waistband, bias tape for boning channels & neck/sleeves/bottom edge binding, Boning, hooks and eyes.

Time: About 10-15 hours – I made most of the dress by machine.

Cost: 300 Sek – the fabric was on Sale and everything else came from stash.

Final Thought: I really love this dress!
I feel so pretty yet comfortable in it. I can move, dance and breath on it and even though it’s long sleeved it’s not hot at all, just perfect for summer.
And I did get lots of compliments at its first outing :-).

All that’s need to be fixed for next time is, adding hooks and eyes for clouser and attachment bodice to skirt.
I also really need to re-set the sleeves. Well nothing is ever perfect 😉
(I’ve now re- set the sleeves, added the hooks and eyes needed at the front and made the bodice and skirt sit firmly together)

1850s Plaid Summer Dress (Part 2 – bodice)

After finishing the skirt (and the Lady Mary dress) I continued on to the bodice on my 1850s summer dress.

Using some green cotton from my stash I draped a pattern on my dress-form trying to get as close to the original shape as possible.2015-04-14_22.28.24

Then I cut it out, stitched it together and tried it on.
IMG_6396bodice with pinned darts on one side.

I pinned the darts while wearing the mock-up. Then I took it of, marked and stitched them shut.

And put it on again for one more try to see if i got it right.IMG_6419Looks pretty good I think.

Then I altered the pattern, taking out a few millimeters at every seam to make it a tad smaller, and shortened the back bodice about a cm to make it end at the waist.IMG_6397

And on to cutting out the pattern.IMG_6465The pattern matching took a while, but whit lots of patients and pinning, I did get it right in the end.

Then I basted the bodice pieces to the interlining (who also served as lining).20150514_125203center back being basted.

I stitched the center back seam,but was not happy with the bad matching of the pattern.
IMG_6681 So I ripped out the seam and used three times as many pins as usual to really get the fabric to lay still while sewing (I could just have basted, but was to lazy at that point).
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The result was much better, still not perfect, but I figured it wouldn’t show that much once worn.

Then I marked, pinned and stitched the darts on the bodice front piece copying the markings from the mock-up.IMG_6655IMG_6665

Then it was once more time to lace o the corset to check the fit.
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Looks good. the only thing I needed to change was to shorten the back length some more. The vertical crease at the shoulder blades is a consequence of my corset, and will disappear as soon as I get the back boning in.

I really love the look of the bodice at this stage.
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IMG_6687Trying it out with the right underwear…

Now it’s time for the front draping.

I used the pattern piece from my pattern draping, now cut in the plaid cotton, and pinned it to the dressform.2015-05-18_18.23.50_resizedMy only problem now was to decide if I really wanted the draping or not.

I loved the clean look of the un-draped bodice (and it would be so much easier and faster to finish), but my I think it was the draping who made me love the inspiration dress so much.

What to do?

To be continued….

1850s plaid summer dress (Part 1- Skirt)

For the upcoming 1850s “Crinoline day” I decided i needed a new dress (even though I teqnicly have two perfectly functional ones already – Green 1840s and Brown 1850s Paisley)

This time I wanted to focus on the light summer dresses I’ve seen so many examples of lately.

So I picked one of my favourites as my main inspiration and started looking for fabric.07176d121492c50c50ebd7441c72bcd5Main inspiration

And to my surprise I found the perfect one straight away, and it was on sale. Yay! 20150325_080825_resizedIt’s a sheer cotton with the light feel of voile, and a pretty, light plaid pattern with lots of white to make the dress fit for summer.

At the moment I was rushing to finish my “Downton Mary dress“, so I couldn’t comit to the new project straight away, so to get tings moving I decided to start working on the skirt.

I almost used the same simple tequnices as in my sisters 1860s skirt (which I made a month later) – Cuting three skirt lenght of whole fabric widhts, matching the pattern and stitching them togeter to a huge circle.

Then I stsitched two rows of gthering stistches at the top and pulled to get the right waist measurment. I purpusly used one fabic widht for the front and two for the back, to disturbute the poufiness to the back.

Then I stitched a cotton tape to the gathered waist IMG_6245and turn it under by hand to get a small but sturdy waistband.IMG_6258

I used my dressform to measure and pin the skirt lenght 20150411_142134Trying it out on my dressform

and make sure the back clouser looked good. 20150411_142206_resized

Then I folded, pinned and hemmed the skirt, using 1 cm long heming stitches.IMG_6837

All and all it took about 4 hours and was an evenings welcome break from “Lady Mary”

The finished skirt:IMG_7298

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A couple of photos with the skirt, (not) Gabardi blouse and green bonnet:IMG_4962

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As you can see I also discovered I needed to shorten the skirt about 5-10 cm – great!
Back to the ironing table…

Nexts up: Construction for the dress bodice…

swiss Waist

As a final touch on my sisters 1860s outfit (Skirt, Blouse, Hat) I decided to make a Swiss waist. f0870122635b3a5962969592ceaf8851I love the look of so many of these pictures.

As it appers, Lots of other bloggers started to show interest in the small, but faboulus looking accessorie.
“Katie Lowely” made one as her HSM15 – Practiality entry.
And “Vintage Visions” examens one of her ancient ones using lots o new photos.

I’ve also had this pattern showing up in my Pinetest feed not long ago.d2a2d1a6a182f3d28fc757e8365d1e2dAnd following the link I discovered that Catheine of ” The fashionable Past” had drafted it from an extant piece in her colection (and also made a great tutorial for stitching it up, which I of course found only after I finished making my own…Doh)

Perfect!

As I wanted this project to be yet another fast one I dow into my scrap bin staright away and came up agin with two pieces of black fabric one cotton lawn and one piece of polyester taffeta.

So I copied the patten and altered it to my sisters measurments, then I cut 1 of each piec in taffeta and two in cotton.
I bsted the one of the cotton pieces to the taffeta as interlining nad pinned the pieces togeter or assemebly.

I stitched the cotton lining and the taffteta together at the front and back.IMG_6771IMG_6776

I made boning chanells from the selvedge at the side seam.IMG_6777

IMG_6778On pieces this uniform and simular, it is extra important to mark your front/back/up/down/right/wrong side.

The it was time to stitch the outer fabric to the lining. I tried the “sticth and turn” method, with bad result.IMG_6770So I ended up ripping the seam out, turning the edges in from the outside and securing them with a wisible seam. (Totaly on purpose…)

Then I inserted the bones at the side seams.IMG_6784

I measured and marked the placeent for the lacing holes.IMG_6786

And spent one evening in front o the Tv sewing them.IMG_6787

Once the lacin holes was fininshed I inserted the last bones and stitched the edge closed by hand. IMG_6788IMG_6789

Then I finished of by adding hooks and eyes to the front edge.

The fininshed Swiss Waist (and whole outfit):IMG_6800

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The whole outfit including:
hat, Blouse, Skirt, Swiss wist and accessories like, fan, shawl, necktie and lace glowes.IMG_6792

The facts:

What: A 1860s Swiss Waist – Belt accessorie

Pattern: “Koshka the cats” pattern for “Swiss waist ca 1860s”

Fabric and notions: Scraps of black cotton and ployester taffeta, thread, scarps of boning, buttonhole thread and hooks and eyes.

Time & cost: About 4 hours and 50 sek (8Usd)

Final thought: It serves it’s purpose, but I think It nwould ahve benefitted from another fabric choise and some more boning.

1860s(ish) 2 hours blue skirt

To have something to go with the hat, and shirt/blouse, my sister also needed some other pieces to make her outfit (why do I do this to myself).

And to save my sanity, I decided on yet another quick and simple project.
A straight skirt sewn on machine.

I had some trouble finding a fabric I liked (and thought my sister would like)20150331_170650Lovely cotton prints, but none that would serve my purposes.

Then I stumbled over this great (and quite loud) print, which I immediately loved.IMG_6758

I started by cutting three widths of fabric the length the skirt needed. IMG_6757

Then I matched the prints at the seams and stitched the widths together.IMG_6756If you look closely you can see the edge.

Then I pleated the upper edge to the right waist measure and added a small strip of fabric for waistband.

I finished by folding and stitching the hem, and adding hooks and eyes for clouser.

The only thing that took some time was the hemming – if I’d sewn it by machine I could have called it my
“1 hour skirt”.

The finished skirt:IMG_6806

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The facts:

What: A 1860s skirt

Pattern: None – just used rectangular pieces

Fabric & Notions: 3,5 m blue patterned light cotton, thread and hooks and eyes.

Time: 2 hours

Cost: about 300 Sek

Final thoughts: The skirt turned out just like I envisioned, and my sister likes it too, The only thing in need of change are to shorten the front a bit to keep my sister from stepping on it.