Before I could continue on my 1850s dress bodice, I needed to decide on weather or not to do the gathers (part 1 & 2).
To help decide I posted the question n my facebook wall, and in my historic sewing class, and the answer was unanimous – Do the gathers.
With no time to argue, I got to work, testing the draping on my dressform.
Using three gathering threads to test the draping on the dressform.
The shoulders being tamed and arranged by two treads of gathering stitches that later is to be hidden in the shoulder seam.
I was not totally happy with the first try at waist gathers (using three threads) so I decided to re-do it using threads every 1-1,5 cm or so.
Testing the gathers.
Once I was happy with the technique I pinned and basted the lose front piece to the bodice, carefully matching the tightness of the gathers to hide the darts.
Then I pulled all the treads through and secured them on the back side, before I stitched the whole piece down using hidden slip stitches. You can see the right side being finished while the left still have all the threads hanging lose.
And then I left it for a few a few weeks, fully occupied by working on my sisters 1860s outfit, training for my big running competition and preparing for vacation on work.
Once I finished all the other things and finally gotten my (well deserved) vacation I once more took on the task of finishing the bodice.
With only one day left to work on the dress before it was to be used, I need to hurry.
This is how I found the bodice once more the day before the event – When I decided to give it a try, and finish it.
With no time to lose, I pinned and sewed the sleeves together and added them to the bodice using gathering threads at the sleeve head, before turning under 1 cm and hemming them at the wristPattern matching the sleeves
Then I hand stitched the boning channels to the sides, back and darts, and inserted cable tie bones cut to the right length.
I added a placket to the front edge for the clouser, and pined bias-tape to the neck and bottom edge.
Turning the bias tape at the neck down and securing it at shoulder and back.
I stitched and turned over the bias-tape at the waist, and slip-stitched it to the inside lining to make a smooth and clean finish.
late at night I marked the placement for the hooks and eyes, but I never had the time to finish them before I needed to hurry to catch the buss to the event.(Instead I pinned it shut)
I also added bias binding to the sleeve edges
Outside and inside of the “finished” bodice:
I didn’t had time to ad the clouser to the front (Edit: Now it’s done).
The finished dress:
The Facts – Bodice & skirt:
What: A 1850s summer daydress
Pattern: I drafted my own using Janet Arnolds ” Pattern of Fashion” and Nora Waughs “Cut of Womens Clothes”.
Fabric & Notions: Thread, 5 m of light weight plaid cotton, 0,5 of regular white cotton, 1 m cotton tape for waistband, bias tape for boning channels & neck/sleeves/bottom edge binding, Boning, hooks and eyes.
Time: About 10-15 hours – I made most of the dress by machine.
Cost: 300 Sek – the fabric was on Sale and everything else came from stash.
Final Thought: I really love this dress!
I feel so pretty yet comfortable in it. I can move, dance and breath on it and even though it’s long sleeved it’s not hot at all, just perfect for summer.
And I did get lots of compliments at its first outing :-).
All that’s need to be fixed for next time is, adding hooks and eyes for clouser and attachment bodice to skirt.
I also really need to re-set the sleeves. Well nothing is ever perfect 😉
(I’ve now re- set the sleeves, added the hooks and eyes needed at the front and made the bodice and skirt sit firmly together)