January 2015 – Fashion Through Herstory

Fluffy Fur Hat

Published on January 31, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

As I mentioned in my last post, I’ve been obsessing over beautiful fur garments for the last two months.
And more precise – fur hats.

My main inspiration.

Russian fabulousnes from the latest version of “Anna Karenina”

So, in the days after Christmas I dug a piece of left over faux fur out of my stash, and got to work.

I cut the pieces for the hat in fur, cotton batting and linen for lining.

Then I hand stitched the ends of the rectangle together,and attached the circle shaped crown.

When pinning the lining in, I realized the bating made it to bulky, so I decided to remove it.
Then I stitched the linen to the fur and turned it right side out.

The finished hat:

The Facts:

Pattern: N,one – I just drew one rectangle and one circle a few cm bigger then my head measurements.

Fabric: 0,3 m of faux fur and the same amount of linen.

Notions: Thread

Time: About two hours

Cost: Basically nothing. The linen was leftover scraps, and the fur have been in my stash for a year and a half just waiting to be used for some winters stuff.

Final Thougts: This was such a fun, quick and easy project. I would love to make some minor modifications to the pattern and then make several of these hats and sell (I already have a few interested buyers…)

A Skirt is a Skirt

Published on January 27, 2015 by fashionthrougherstory4 Comments

A skirt is a skirt by any other name…

Petticoat or not to petticoat – that is the question…

Ok, enough silliness.
Last weekend I’ve made a 18th century petticoat/skirt.
Here in Sweden “Petticoat” means – “under skirt” or hoop-skirt if you’r talking wedding dresses, and a skirt is just a skirt – nothing else.
But in historic sentence these two seems to be interchangeable (at least to me, since I’d always had a bit trouble keeping the two apart in English).
But I then I read in “Cut of womens clothes” that after 1660s “the underskirt was always called a petticoat”.
Does that mean you can call the same garment “skirt” or “petticoat” deepening on the way it is worn at the moment?

Anyhow,
I’t was such an easy and quick project even though I made it by hand.
One day in front of the computer watching series, and it was done.

I bought this brown fabric for a steal from an online fabric sale – convinced it was a striped cotton twill (as the website claimed).
But once delivered it was more like a heavy polyester made for suits and pants. Darn it.
Well, the price of sending it back would be more then the fabric itself, so I decided to go ahead and make my skirt anyway.

It worked surprisingly well, if you don’t count the bump in my fingers from pressing the needle through, and the heaviness of the fabric gives the skirt and hem a nice drape.

The construction is really simple using two width of fabrics and cartridge-pleating them to a narrow waistband.

I also made sure to hem it quite short, to mimic the length of the fashion plate.

Finished:

Fabric: 2 m of brown polyester “twill”

Notions: thread, Hook and eye.

Cost: about 40Sek (6 Usd) all and all – I told you, a steal 🙂

Time: About 5 hours of hand stitching.

Final thought: I like the drape of the skirt and the pleating looks really nit, even though I would have wished for a thicker fabric.
I think the skirt will look great combined with the new bodice/jacket and accessories I’m working on, for the “peasant fiest” I’m hoping to attend in about two weeks.

Overload on beautiful Books

Published on January 16, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

The days after Christmas I treated myself to some costuming books.

And today they arrived!
Yay!
10,5 kg of costuming happiness!

From left to right:

In Fine Style – the Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion
by Anna Reynolds
I just found this book this winter and I don’t regret for a second my impulse to get it.
Its a real candy book with lots and lots of gorgeous photos of existing garments and paintings with lovely close-ups of details.

Fashion – a History from 18th century to 20th century (part 2 1900s to 2000s)
by Kyoto Institute of Fashion. This book series is classic for a reason. The beautiful pictures and the sheer size of the volumes are all reason you need to love it.

Fashion – a History from 18th century to 20th century (part 1 1700s to 1900s)
by Kyoto Institute of Fashion.

If you ever searched the internet for costume inspiration, you’r sure to have encountered several of the pics in this book. They are simply breath taking, and the book is a real treasure to study closely or to just flip through for inspiration.

The Victorian Tailor – Techniques and pattern
by Jason Maclochlainn
I’ve heard it said that if you only need one book about historic/Victorian tailoring, it is this one.
I can’t wait to really get in dept into this book, and hopes to be able to try some of the techniques in the near future.

The queens servants – Gentlewomen’s dress at the accession of Henry VIII
by Caroline Johnson
Since I love “The Tudor Tailor” I expect this close-up on women’s servants to be great.
So far I’ve seen some interesting dress styles and lots of information about cut and colors.

Elizabethan Costume – Design and Construction
by Helen Qizhi Huang, Kelsey Hunt and Emily Hoem

Considering I own and love the other three books in this costume series, I’m not that thrilled.
There seems to be some interesting stuff about construction and fabrics, but at a first gimps I’d expected more. Not to say that it won’t grow on me later on.

Now you might excuse me while I disappear in to theses goodies for about a month….

18th century skirt foundation (A.k.a Panniers of pain)

Published on January 14, 2015 by fashionthrougherstory2 Comments

For the HSM challenge 1/2015 – Foundation, I knew I wanted to make 18th century panniers to go under my in progress robe a la Franchise (more on that on a later note).

And since I already had all the material (fabric, metal boning and bias tape) in my stash I started by looking for patterns. 1740 panier waugh This pattern from “Corsets and Crinolines” looked good but seemed to be much bigger then I needed.
And I’ve heard from others who made it that it is in fact huge!

I was thinking something more along the lines of this picture. be103b0e94eebfb2dae8a3a825eb33b6 That seems easy enough. So I figured I didn’t need a pattern after all.

So on to the tapemeasure I whent, and started cutting the fabric.A green sort of linen/polyester kind of fabric, here cut in double pieces.

Once all seams was stitched together and felled, I started working on the boning bias tape for the channels I marked where I wanted the bones to be, and stitched the bias tape on top of the chalk lines.

Then I made a running stitch and gathered the top to be set in the waistband.

To get the oval shape on the panniers I attached rows of ribbons to be tied horizontal across the hoops.

Inside of the panniers before inserting the boning.

I used my regular go-to metal pipe cleaners for boning. The shape of the panniers whit the bones are somewhat circular…

And the edges of the top most bones makes a slight worrisome edge.

Finished in one night, yay!

Eh, no….

Once tied together the top hoop made the worst shape ever.

Darn it.
How to solve this?
I posted a quick question on my facebook page and in the HSM facebook group, and over night got lots of great suggestions.

Then I started experimenting.

I removed the diagonal bones at the top. Better, but a long way from perfect.

Once he bones was removed I noticed a excess of fabric at the top front and back. I played with pinning it into a giant dart thous removing the upper bones ability to push out. There was lots of width to take out.

But once pinned in darts and tied into place the pannier keeps the desired shape.

The problem was I thought of the whole panniers like a big circle/crinoline tied into shape. But what I failed to grasp was that to keep the top hoop close to the body at front/back and wide at the sides I needed to shape the top of the fabric. – just like in Waughs pattern….

Once decisive on the actions on how to save and finish the panniers I also decided that the pale green color was a bot bland. So I turned it inside out and stitched the darts from the opposite side to give it a ore interesting look (including removing all the ties and re-attached them on the new inside).

The finished panniers: (Yay)

Just the facts:

Challenge: nr 1/2015 – Foundation

What: A pair of 18th century panniers.

Pattern: None, I just measured and cut.

Fabric: 1,5 m of green linen from stash.

Notions: Thread, 7 m of metal boning, 7 m of brown bias-tape and 5 m of white cotton ribbon.

How historical accurate: Not much. The fabric is wrong, the boning is metal and I sewed most of it on my sewing machine. It looks pretty good though.

Time: About 8 hours – 2 of which I worked on correcting the upper hoop.

Cost: I would guess about 100 Sek (16 Usd) but everything came from stash so I’m not sure.

First worn: Only around the house for photos. But I intend to wear it with my up-coming Robe a la Franchise at the first chance I get.

Final thoughts: This was meant as a quick project, and as usual those are the ones which causes most trouble. But thanks to some minor experimenting and tips from the HSM hive mind I managed to complete them without to much bad words.

2015 Sewing Wishlist

Published on January 6, 2015 by fashionthrougherstory4 Comments

Apart from the HSM15, I have some (many) dresses and outfits I would love to try to make.

Here are a list of what inspires me right now and what I will be longing to making during the year to come.

(In chronological order) I would like to venture a bit furter into the middle ages, and make another cotehardie and a 15th century gown complete with fur and judiciously huge headwear.

Some cool middle class Renaissance wear can never go wrong.

I would live to dip into the 17th century Mantua, perhaps I even get the chance to make a fountang (stovepipe headwear).

My very own Robe a la Francaise are well on its way (cut and pinned) at the moment. I just need to find the time to finish it of.

I love to make a version of this french gown from “Belle” for my sister. I allready have the perfect fabric.

You can never go wrong with a white regency gown, and the dotted organza are already resting in my stash.

With so many sheer regency gowns I need a proper bodiced petticoat too.

Oh sweet 1830s, the age of hideousness. Maybe I can overcome the huge sleeves and make myself a gown from this decade. The fabric I have in mind are bedsheets I bought this summer.

Huge sleeves needs huge foundations, and a quilted petticoat is something every costumer should have.

I’m dreaming of a 1860s daydress in a vivid color, like blue or purple, maybe this will be the year.

This 1880s plaid daydress have been on my list since I found the fashion plate last summer. The fabric in mind are a 5 m blue and white upholstery cotton.

I just love the vivid colors of this flowery velvet. I already have the perfect pattern, just to find the fabric…

Gorgeous – may be a bit to flimsy for my taste but if I do find the right fabric, I’m soo making this.

1880s Christmas party anyone? I love the green velvet against the beige silk and golden trim.

This 1890s-1900s bicycle outfit are both chic and functional at the same time. I think it would be so fun to make and take or a tour through the park.

Both the dress and the cape are fabulous and I want another try at this stylish decade.

I have no illusions of ever making all of these outfits, but is consider it more like a wishlist and inspiration for the year of 2015.

What are you dreaming of making in 2015?

HS(F)M 2015

Published on January 4, 2015 by fashionthrougherstory6 Comments

The Dreamstress have decided to host yet another year of wonderful historical sewing challenges.
Only this year we will all (and most off all me) slow the paste down a bit and do the “Historical Sew Monthly“.

After some consideration I’ve decided to participate even this year – Oh, how am I kidding there was never any doubt…
But this year I will put up some ground rules for me to follow.

*Use stash first – I may need to buy notions and fabric such as buttons, cord or lining but I will use fabrics from my ever growing stash as much as possible.

* Don’t sweet it – If I can’t finish in time for a deadline, there’s no pressure, I will just post whenever I finish. – This also means I will not rush to complete thing in a slopy manner, but instead take my time and make everything as good as I can.

*Take time of from sewing – If the choice is between hanging out with friends/hubby/family or sewing, I will choose people every time.

Let’s present the challenges and what I intend to do with them for 2015.

January – Foundations:
Make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

I’m going for 18th century here and doing some panniers – probably a smaller version of the ones in the picture.

February – Blue:
Make an item that features blue, in any shade from azure to zaffre.

I’ve started a 1790s Redingote in a light blue wool for the HSF 14 challenge 22: Menswear, but left it after some hard design decisions. This is the perfect excuse to finish it.

March – Stashbusting:
Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.

I’m not completely sure about this one, but I’m thinking of making a Spencer from a beige wool I’ve got laying around. There are really to less fabric for anything else, and I do need some more outerwear, but I might as well go in another direction with this one.

April – War & Peace:
The extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear. Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace.

I’m thinking of making the famous striped 1914s dress that Mary wears in Downton Abbey the day they get the news of the coming war.
I got some leftover striped white/green cotton that would be great for this project.

May – Practicality:
Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone,even princesses, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in. Create the jeans-and-T-Shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period.

I’ve long been thinking about making a everyday regency dress from some green cotton sheets I’ve got, and this seems like a perfect opportunity

June – Out of Your Comfort Zone:
Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.

A few fellow seamstresses here in Sweden are all getting their 17th century dresses finished this year, so why not join in. I love to make a boned bodice and skirt for this challenge.

July – Accessorize:
The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look. Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.

bba904c5a7aa1a5222e9b051ebcf7186 This challenge could be a lots of things. I’ve considered headwear, aprons, jewelry and shoes, but I think what I most need (and want) are some 1800-1860s chemisetts.

August – Heirlooms & Heritage:
Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations.

dalsland4 This one is hard for me, since I don’t know anything about my ancestors, and there are none of my older relatives left to ask.
But considering most of the Swedish population heirs from farmers, I suppose that’s as good guess as any.
I will need some more research to determent what to make for this one.

September – Brown:
It’s not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colours throughout history. Make something brown.

gray1 I got some brown wool/polyester blend that would look great as a late 19th century walking dress. Perhaps something along the lines of the suit Satin/Nicole Kidman wears in “Moulin Rouge”.

October – Sewing Secrets:
Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance).

Yet another one I’m not sure about. But I know I want to make a 18th century mourning dress this year, and this may be the chance to do so. And the secret?
You will just have to wait and see.

November – Silver Screen:
Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece.

I’ve wanted to make this dress (worn by Cate Blanchett in “Elizabeth”) since I first saw it, I already got the fabric, the pattern and the period undergarments for it – so now is the time (If I can brace myself for so long).

December – Re-Do:
It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges.

I have honestly no idea on what to make for this challenge.
But since it is a whole year left until then, I’m sure I will figure something out.
After all, I got a pretty impressive list on “Want to make” this year…
(More on that in my next post)

HSF14 Round-up – did I make it?

Published on January 2, 2015 by fashionthrougherstoryLeave a comment

In my last post I counted down everything I made through out the year, and now I will do the same for the challenges of the HSF14, to see if I managed to stick to the plan.
(sorry for the repeats)

In the beginning of 2014 I wrote down all the challenges to come and everything I wanted to make during the year. Then I puzzled and pieced it together, leaving some challenges empty to make room for changed costuming needs and different inspiration.

Lets take a look on what I sad I would do, and what I actually did.

So, did I make it?

1. Make do/mend:

1880s petticoat from two sheets.

Alterations on a 18th century jacket.

Complete: Yes
The first challenge had already ended when I did my list/plan, so it’s not quite fair, but I think I did pretty good.

2. Innovations

A 1880s corset made with busk, spiral steel and grommet.

Complete: So so
The corset was all but finished when the challenges was announced, and I did stretch the challenge dead line a bit to make it work.

3. Pink & 8. Ufo/Pdf

Pink: A 18th century calico jacket (this one depends on how I feel when I get the fabric (which is still in my inlaws basement)).

Ufo/Pdf: I’m not sure about this one, will have to wait and see. Hopefully I can use some of my stash, and perhaps do something for one of my sisters.

A pink 18th century Caraco jacket and pistage skirt.

Complete: Yes & Yes
I did managed to make a complete outfit for my sister on these two challenges.

4. Under it all
A 1900s S-shape corset.

A 1900s S-shaped corset.

Complete: Yes
Dead on!

5. Bodice
I’m not sure about this one, will have to wait and see.

A 1900s brassiere.

Complete: Yes
Unfair since I didn’t had any ideas before hand.

6. Fairytale & 7. Tops/Toes

A 1900s white gown, inspired from the “Ariel” design together with some real pictures, and a big lovely hat to match. I think I got the right fabric for this gown, and now that I got lots of lace as well, I should just go for it.

A white 1900s gown inspired by “Ariel“

A 1900s picture hat, to be worn with the Ariel (later Camille) gown.

Compleat: Yes & Yes

9. Black/White & 10. Art
A 1780s white sateen skirt and the green striped gown in the painting. I already own the striped fabric, just need to find a nice white one for the skirt.

Inspiration Painting

A white skirt and a striped Angalise in the same fashion as the painting.

Complete: Yes & Yes

11. Politic
A regency roundgown. It don’t get more political then that…

A yellow regency gown.

Complete: Yes – although technically I didn’t make a roundgown…

12. Shape/Support
A 1850s cage crinoline to be worn under the 1850s paisley gown

a 1850s cage crinoline

A 1880s mini bustle

Complete: Yes, plus a bonus entry.

14. Paisley/Plaids.
I have two bedsheets in brown/paisley which I bought with a dress like this in mind.

a 1850s paisley daydress

a 1880s paisley evening bodice

Complete: Yes

13. under 10 Usd
I think this challenge can be lot of things, like a chemise, a fichu, a hat or some other accessories. I will wait and see what I will need at the time. But I think it will have to be pretty quick and simple, since the next one will take some extra time.

a 1850s chemise from a bedsheet

a 1850s petticoat from two bedsheets

Complete: Yes, and a bonus entry.

15. Outdoors
A light blue 18th century redingoat. Love this one from “Festive Attyre“, and I do have a pale blue, soft wool that would be perfect.

a regency west.

Complete: No, not even close.
(I did started the redingote for a later challenge, but sadly never finished)

16. Termologi
This one can also be a lot of things, but I think I will do something easy since the “Outerwear” one will be big.

a pair of 18th century stays.

Complete: Yes – also not fair since I didn’t specify in advance, and I’m not sure you can call 18th century stays easy…

17. Yellow
Maybe a regency open robe like the one worn on the round gown for challenge 11. This depends on what kind of fabric I find.

a 1550s doublet in yellow wool.

Complete: No, even though I meant to do the open robe up until the last second. Then I found yellow wool and quickly changed my mind, and I did state that the outcome of this challenge would be based on what fabric I would get.

18. Poetry
Not sure yet, but thinkig of making a 18th century robe out of some flowery fabric I got. There will always be poems about flowers, right.

a 1770s skirt/petticoat made to be worn over pocket hoops.

Complete: So so, not a complete robe, and not in the intended fabric, but 18th century and flower fabric it is.

19. HSF inspiration
I’m sure there will be lots of inspiration in the “HSF” folders by then, but right now I have no idea.

A pair of lace cuffs for my 18th century wardrobe

Complete: Yes – I’m quite a cheater making something so simple from a non specified challenge.

20. Alternative Universe
Maybe some steampunk or halloween dress. I like them both, but are not sure I will be able to make any of them.

tumblr_m9ebbiQMJ11qa0f2qo1_500 bw21

A greecian inspired Regency gown

Complete: No. Even though the Steampunk outfit got finished months before, and the 18th century Halloween gown was planed, but never executed.

21. Re-do
A easy one to do since you can make almost anything, but I will decide later on.

a white regency evening gown thous re-making: Black/white, Politic and Terminology.

Complete: Yes, once again not fair, since I didn’t specify.

22. Fortnightliers Choise (Menswear)
This depends on what the challenge will be. (Well, obviously).

A 18th century riding hat

Compete: So so – This was quite a cheat, since I had great planes for this challenge and only managed to finish the head wear.

– I did to try to get the 18th century riding habit made for this one. Unfortunately it took a bit more time then estimated and I will not be finished for at least another month (but I’m hopefully looking forward to one of the new challenges in the beginning of next year…).

23. Modern History
This one is difficult, since I usually don’t wear “strange” clothing. But maybe I can try some 1930s blouse or pant patterns. Or perhaps the lovely black dress from “True Blood”.

A 1930s party dress.

Complete: Yes – Not quite a blouse, but almost.

24. Glitter
I’m thinking of making a 1920s party gown, maybe something I can wear on new years eve.

A 1920s evening gown.

Complete: Yes – I will not wear it at New Year but otherwise I think I did pretty good.

Conclusion HSF2014: Think I did very good.
It is really hard to plan a whole year ahead of time, and I suppose that’s why the spring challenges are more accurate then the ones from the autumn and winter months.
Even though I didn’t make every challenge according to plan, I’m still proud of myself for finishing the entire HSF14 race.

Now It’s time to look ahead to future sewing….