My original plan for the 16th HSF challenge – Terminology, (making something from “the-great-historical-fashion-and-textile-glossary“) was to make a regency round gown, but as the deadline approached I found an old UFO in my sewing pile causing me to changed track completely.
The item that now got my sewing nerve tingling was the 18th century half boned stays from Nora Waughs Corset and Crinolines. I’d started the project about a year ago, scaled and printed the pattern, took measurements and altered the pieces . Then I left it in favor for some other, more pressing costuming need. And that’s how I found it.
So I searched “The Glossary” for some useful article and found just the one: Stays.The pieces already altered for my measurements.
I decided to keep the pieces as they were (one year old measurements and all), and pinned them to the old cotton sheet I use for mock-ups.
Then I put in some boning, and attached my old lacing strip to the back.Not very pretty, but functional.
So, on to the fashion fabric.
I used the leftovers from my previous corset en-devour (1900s S-shape).Pinning the strong sateen interlining.
The finished Stays:
Just the facts:
Challenge: nr 16 – Terminology
What: a pair of 18th century half boned stays. Read more about the origin of the word (and what differs Stays from Corsets on: http://thedreamstress.com/2013/08/terminology-whats-the-difference-between-stays-jumps-a-corsets/
Pattern: 1770s Stays pattern from Nora Waughs Corset and Crinolines.
Fabric: 0,5 m of striped cotton, 0,5 m of tightly woven cotton sateen and 0,5 m of white cotton sheets.
Notions: Thread, 13 pairs of gromets, 5 m lacing cord, 4 m of cotton bias tape, 1 m of metal boning and about 30 pieces of plastic cable ties.
How historical accurate: The pattern, material and shape of the stays are correct. But I sewed them on my machine and used metal grommets, plastic boning and modern construction techniques. So maybe 4/10
Time: About 15 hours – binding the tabs took like forever.
Cost: About 200 Sek (32 Usd). But since most of the material came from stash and was leftovers from previous projects I didn’t pay that much. More like 80 Sek.
First worn: For photos yesterday, and hopefully for an upcoming 18th century event n a few weeks.
Final thoughts: I really love the look of these stays, but they are really uncomfortable.
I need to make some alterations to make them fit better, and I’m not sure that will help, since I made them to long in the waist. I wore them for about 1 hour this weekend and the boning poking in to my hips and back was really noticeable.
And on top of fixing the ill fitting part, I accidentally burst one of the side seams of the stays while sneezing during the photoshoot (ups)…