18th century skirt and bumpad – re-making

These last weeks I’ve been up to my ears in sewing to do since apparently finishing a costume is not enough for me – I need to alter the pieces I thought I’ve already had.

So after finishing my latest project I dug some of my previous costuming peices out from their box for some re-working.

Starting of with my big bum-roll.IMG_1731Does my bum look big in this skirt?

I started by removing the stuffing, getting quite an impressive pile. IMG_0982

The I turned it inside out and marked the new smaller shape.IMG_0990

I focused on getting the sides smaller but trying to keep the size at the back.IMG_0988

I trimmed the excess fabric and notched the new allowance. IMG_0994

Then it was time to re-stuff it.IMG_1002

And lastly I stitched the opening shut.IMG_1003

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The altered bumpad:IMG_1521

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Time: 30 min

Cost: Nothing

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Then I got to work on my golden skirt.

The original shape or the skirt was made to fit over posher with extra length at the sides to accommodate the lift at the hips of this model.

But now I wanted to pair it with my new Anglaise, so it needed a change (and a shortening).

IMG_1594Just a teeny bit long… or not

I started by removing the lining. IMG_0975

And un-picked the pleats. IMG_0971 IMG_0973

Then I measured and cut the top to make more length at the back instead if the hips. IMG_0983

Unfortunately the current length wasn’t enough so I had to use some of the cut-offs to lengthen the back.IMG_1007

I used a gathering thread to get the waist down to the right size. IMG_1010

Then I re-attached the waistband.IMG_1012

And stitched it down.IMG_1016

You would think the skirt was finished by now, but no.IMG_1358Going through the photos from the photoshoot I discovered the skirt still was way to long.

So it was back to the drawing board (so to speak)IMG_1578I didn’t wanted to re do the waist once more so instead I let down the hem.

And cut of a good 10 cm on the bottom.IMG_1579

I then ironed the edge down and pinned it in place.IMG_1580

And finally I hemmed it all again.
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The finished skirt:IMG_1495

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Time: About 2 hours.

Cost: Nothing except a few pennies for thread.

(And if you been paying attention you might already know what project I’ve just recently been finishing, (and will post about next time)).

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White additions

For the HSF nr 9: Black & white, I decided to make some pieces I’ve needed to make my next big costuming project work.

Since my plan is to make a compleatly hand made Robe Anglaise as the next challenge (due 1 june) I needed to give myself a head start. So by making a simple piece for this one, I could save some time and make it possible to start the Anglaise earlier.

The theme of this challenge fit perfectly for some of the pieces I needed for the “Art” gown to be finished.

First: The skirt.

A 18th century petticoat/skirt made from regular white cotton (I needed it to be both quick and cheap).

I used a regular white cotton fabric that I found in my stash.

Since I made almost the exact skirt for the previous challenge, I won’t bore you with construction detals, but instead go straight to the Finished photos. (If you’re still want to know how I made it, take a look at my Pastell UFO skirt.

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IMG_8066Just The Facts:

Challenge: nr 9: Black & white.

What: A 18th century skirt/petticoat.

Pattern: None, just measured and cut.

Fabric: 2,5 m of white cotton sheets.

Notions: Thread and 2 m cotton ribbon for tying at the waist.

How Historical Accurate: So so. The time constraint caused me to sew it by machine (and Ialso do think it is stupid to handsew pieces which are clearly in the wrong material). But the shape and construction are plausable.

Time: 4 hours

Cost: 60 sek (9Usd)

First worn: Not yet. But hopefully at june 6 for a huge costuming event.

Final thoughts: I had some trouble deciding on the bottom flounce.The original calles for fringes, but there was no way I was going to get hold on some cheap and sutable ones in time. I did try to make my own, but they lacked the weight neccesary to hang nicely. In the end I opted for a narrow flounce, and I’m pretty happy with the result.

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The second thing I needed was a bigger bumpad.

I’ve made a temporary one about a month ago, to wear with my Edwardian dress. However, I didn’t had the time to finish it, so last night I picked it up again.

IMG_8054Pink and purple cotton basted to several layers of quilt padding.

IMG_8055It was originaly ment to be a quilted petticoat, but as you can see, I didn’t get very far.

I covered the pad in white cotton, leftover from a previous project. Making self fabric bias-tape to trim the edges and make tying ribbons.

IMG_8079It was such a quick and easy project.

Finished:IMG_8071

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Just the facts:

Challenge: 9 – Black and white

What: A bumpad – 18th century to early 20th century.

Pattern: None

Fabric: 0,5 m of white cotton (originaly 0,5 m of quilting padding and some leftover fabric scraps).

Notions: Thread.

How historical accurate: Not at all. Maybe the shape will pass, but the construction, material and look is all wrong.

Time: 1 hour (perhaps 30 min more, if it hadn’t been half finished already).

Cost: Nothing since I only used leftover scraps.

First worn: Not yet. But hopefully at june 6 for a huge costuming event.

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I had time to make one final item before the deadline – a fichu.

I wanted to make one large enough to wrap around the body and tie in the back, like you se in many paintings from the 1780s.

Using some adwise I got on the internet, I cut two large triangles and stiched them togeter to make one huge.IMG_8274

Then I shaped and rounded of the neck, to make it wrap better around the neck. I french seamed the center back, and hemmed the whole thing – everything by machine. IMG_8289

IMG_8291Close up: French seam and hem.

Finished:IMG_8284

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IMG_8276All my “White” items at once.

Just the facts:

Challenge: Nr 9 – Black and white.

What: A big fichu ca 1780.

Pattern: none.

Fabric: 70 cm of dotted white polyester organza.

Notions: Thread

Historial accuracy: I think the pattern shape will suffice, but the material and use of sewing machine is all wrong.

Time: Half an hour.

Cost: Perhaps 20 Skr (1 USD)

First worn: Not yet, but hopefully at a big costuming picknic next month.

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I had originaly planed to make all tese items compleatly by hand. But as usual life happens, and time is never enough for everything you want to do – so this time the hand sewing had to go.

But I don’t really mind. I kind of think it’s a waist of time to hand sew istorical items made from polyester fabric.

And as you probably can guess – I hadn’t even started the “Big Project” yet.