swiss Waist

As a final touch on my sisters 1860s outfit (Skirt, Blouse, Hat) I decided to make a Swiss waist. f0870122635b3a5962969592ceaf8851I love the look of so many of these pictures.

As it appers, Lots of other bloggers started to show interest in the small, but faboulus looking accessorie.
“Katie Lowely” made one as her HSM15 – Practiality entry.
And “Vintage Visions” examens one of her ancient ones using lots o new photos.

I’ve also had this pattern showing up in my Pinetest feed not long ago.d2a2d1a6a182f3d28fc757e8365d1e2dAnd following the link I discovered that Catheine of ” The fashionable Past” had drafted it from an extant piece in her colection (and also made a great tutorial for stitching it up, which I of course found only after I finished making my own…Doh)

Perfect!

As I wanted this project to be yet another fast one I dow into my scrap bin staright away and came up agin with two pieces of black fabric one cotton lawn and one piece of polyester taffeta.

So I copied the patten and altered it to my sisters measurments, then I cut 1 of each piec in taffeta and two in cotton.
I bsted the one of the cotton pieces to the taffeta as interlining nad pinned the pieces togeter or assemebly.

I stitched the cotton lining and the taffteta together at the front and back.IMG_6771IMG_6776

I made boning chanells from the selvedge at the side seam.IMG_6777

IMG_6778On pieces this uniform and simular, it is extra important to mark your front/back/up/down/right/wrong side.

The it was time to stitch the outer fabric to the lining. I tried the “sticth and turn” method, with bad result.IMG_6770So I ended up ripping the seam out, turning the edges in from the outside and securing them with a wisible seam. (Totaly on purpose…)

Then I inserted the bones at the side seams.IMG_6784

I measured and marked the placeent for the lacing holes.IMG_6786

And spent one evening in front o the Tv sewing them.IMG_6787

Once the lacin holes was fininshed I inserted the last bones and stitched the edge closed by hand. IMG_6788IMG_6789

Then I finished of by adding hooks and eyes to the front edge.

The fininshed Swiss Waist (and whole outfit):IMG_6800

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The whole outfit including:
hat, Blouse, Skirt, Swiss wist and accessories like, fan, shawl, necktie and lace glowes.IMG_6792

The facts:

What: A 1860s Swiss Waist – Belt accessorie

Pattern: “Koshka the cats” pattern for “Swiss waist ca 1860s”

Fabric and notions: Scraps of black cotton and ployester taffeta, thread, scarps of boning, buttonhole thread and hooks and eyes.

Time & cost: About 4 hours and 50 sek (8Usd)

Final thought: It serves it’s purpose, but I think It nwould ahve benefitted from another fabric choise and some more boning.

Vintage Shopping in the Capital

This weekend me and a friend went to Stockholm for the movie premiere of the movie “Huldra”.

But before we needed to get ourselfs ready for the night, we headed down town for some vintage store browsing and a tiny bit of shopping.

First we visited the much talked about vintage store “Old Touch

20150320_151124_resizedJust the window display are to die for.
I totally understand why everybody recommend this store for anything vintage.

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20150320_151822_resizedThe gentlemen section

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20150320_152025_resizeda dress from the 1950s.

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20150320_153215_resizedIt seams I got some extra love for old shoes somehow.

Bags in plenty hanging on the walls, on the shelves and every other place where they would fit.20150320_152125_resizedTake a good look at that golden one, because it’s no longer hanging on that wall…

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Then, on our way home, we stumbled on the shop “Epok“, which caries everything you could possibly need from late 19th century to 1950s.

20150320_155509_resizedThis store was even more cramped, and every square inch was packed with stuff.

20150320_155512_resizedLace veils, collars and shawls hanging from the ceiling.

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20150320_155624_resizedHats on the walls.

20150320_160224_resizedA fabulous hat from 1910s.

Kristin found a dress from the early 1920s, and tried the skirt on20150320_155746_resizedThe skirt is in two layers, with lots and lots of decorative embroidery and sparkly pallets.

I bought myself a pair of crocheted gloves (for my next big HSM project), and a beautiful beaded party bag. It’s from the 60s, and if it wasn’t in such impeccable shape it could easterly be mistaken for something a lot older.20150321_194521_resizedI highly recommend a visit in to both of these stores.
But be aware, they’r both totally rabbit holes, where you can get lost for hours and emerge with a lot less money then when you entered.

18th century Tavern Maid – Accessoares

The days leading up to my planed “18th century Maid“photoshoot, I worked on getting all those small items and accessories in order.IMG_5489

Here are some of the things I made and used to get the look just right:

The leftovers from the jacket (part 1. & part 2.) I turned into a simplified version of a 18th century pocket. IMG_5867Cutting the pieces in front, back and strength fabric – all of which was almost unusable scraps to begin with.

It was such a quick project (took about 2 hours, once I figured out how I wanted it).
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IMG_6087In hindsight I should have made bias tapes for the opening as well, but suppose I didn’t had enough fabric anyway.IMG_6090

I also made a new fichu, since I wanted something les fancy then my regular silk one.IMG_6105It’s basically a cut triangle, with hemmed edges.IMG_6106

I re-used my white apron, but shortened it about 12 cm to get it to fit lenght of the skirt. IMG_6103IMG_6102

I also used my “old” cap (made it a couple of months ago) paired with a orange/sierra ribbon.IMG_6097

The final touch was to ad a cross, which I bought on sale in January for about 10 Sek (1,6 Usd).IMG_6100

IMG_6107Everything a proper maid will ever need.

Shoes on a Bargain

I follow quite a few historic groups on facebook, including a great “Buy and sell group” for people living in Sweden.

About two weeks ago I found the best ad ever.

A pair of American duchess black “Kensington” in my size, for about half what it would have cost me o order them over seas.
They even came with “Valois” shoe buckles.
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I’ve been dreaming of adding a pair of these to my growing historical wardrobe. So I hurried and snatched them up.

A few days later they arrived.

20150221_11231220150221_112321Looking so pure and perfect.

So, last week (while preparing for my “Redingote photoshoot“) I got ready to attach the buckles using the tutorial from AD-homepage.

AD-valois-shoe-bucklesPic from American Duchess site.

Using a small awl to make wholes in the tongue for the buckle. 20150221_112254

I had a bit trouble to get the buckle to sit nicely without making the tongue pucker.20150221_112113

Since I didn’t wanted to put to much pressure on my new shoes I practiced on my well used white 18th century shoes.
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Yay, it worked (with some mild force and determination).

IMG_5723I’m so happy with my new shoes, and love them to death.

Fluffy Fur Hat

As I mentioned in my last post, I’ve been obsessing over beautiful fur garments for the last two months.
And more precise – fur hats.

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IMG_7628My main inspiration.

55eb1db763c32622c1d3742f588bb547Russian fabulousnes from the latest version of “Anna Karenina”

So, in the days after Christmas I dug a piece of left over faux fur out of my stash, and got to work.IMG_2835

I cut the pieces for the hat in fur, cotton batting and linen for lining.IMG_4842

Then I hand stitched the ends of the rectangle together,IMG_4848and attached the circle shaped crown.
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When pinning the lining in, I realized the bating made it to bulky, so I decided to remove it.
Then I stitched the linen to the fur and turned it right side out.

The finished hat:IMG_4934

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The Facts:

Pattern: N,one – I just drew one rectangle and one circle a few cm bigger then my head measurements.

Fabric: 0,3 m of faux fur and the same amount of linen.

Notions: Thread

Time: About two hours

Cost: Basically nothing. The linen was leftover scraps, and the fur have been in my stash for a year and a half just waiting to be used for some winters stuff.

Final Thougts: This was such a fun, quick and easy project. I would love to make some minor modifications to the pattern and then make several of these hats and sell (I already have a few interested buyers…)

18th century Lacy sleeve cuffs

For the HSF nr 19 – HSF-Inspiration (draw inspiration from any of your fellow HSFs items), I decided to make a pair of 18th century sleeve cuffs.

I found a 6 m long piece of lace in my stash, and decided to use it for this project. I originally had some much more delicate lace in mind for this project, but I couldn´t find any I liked in a reasonable enough price range.
So the white lace it is.

IMG_1670The only problem was, it was too white.

After some debating with myself, I decided to try to tea dye it.
And so I did.IMG_1669The salt´s for setting the color.

IMG_1671Cooking away on the stove. 

IMG_1675Rinsing the leftover color out.

When dry, the lace was in dire need of some ironing.IMG_1792

Then it was time to start on the cuffs.
I decided to use two different kinds of lace, using the middle one as extension on the second layer on the cuff.

IMG_3138So I stitched the edges of the pieces together, creating different sized circles of the lace.

then I gathered and pined the pieces together.IMG_3140But then I realised that once the extension lace was gathered into the bias tape, the cuffs would be too puffy.

So I decided to trim a piece of the longer lace to get a more modest gather to start with.IMG_3144The bottom piece are the one cut of.

Then I pinned the second layer to it.IMG_3152

And finished of with the bias-tape.
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And Finished:IMG_3245

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Just the facts:

Challenge: 19 – HSF Inspiration

What: 18th century lace cuffs.

Inspiration: Erin Lee´s 19th century lace cuffs.

Pattern: none, I just gathered and stitched.

Fabric: None.

Notions: a total of 3 m of cotton lace, 60 cm of bias-tape and thread.

How historical accurate: Not particularly. But I did take what I had at hand, and if that´s not period then I don’t know…
They are completely hand stitched, and hand dyed with natural material. Maybe 5/10.

Time: 4 hours including the dying.

Cost: 50 Sek (8 Usd)

First worn: I hope to wear them on an up-coming costume event this november.

 

Steampunk accessories

I’ve been chipping away at lots of different costuming stuff lately.
But the things most outside my usual sewing zone, are the pieces I’ve made for my up-coming steampunk outfit.

IMG_7059A clock I bought on sale this spring.

 I’ve been loking through lots and lots of pictures on the internet and there are som much incredable talent out there. I can only wish to somedsay be able to create something as beautiful.

Anyhow, here are the items I did make for this costume.

I had this cheap bag who I wanted to turn into something steampunkish.IMG_7058

Using this inspirational picture I got to work.steampunk_bag_by_krammelnira-d5qazu1

IMG_0111Gatering my materials.

Since I didn’t had any leater in my stsh I decided to paint the wheel on my bag using golden craft-paint.IMG_0113Then I glued some gears on it using my regualar fabric glue.

Finished:IMG_0127

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***

My next project was to get that super cool looking steampunk gun.steampunk_nerf_gun_by_fencesmakegoodnebors-d324it0No, not this one – this is my inspiration.

Following some tips on the internet I had bought a cheap water gun. IMG_7056The materials used.

I started by sanding the intire gun down.
IMG_0106 IMG_0107after.

Then I sprayed it with copper craft paint, making sure it was compleatly covered.IMG_0109Letting it dry over night.

Then I painted it with my gold, silver and brown paint, and glued on some gears to make it even more steampunk looking.

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Finished:IMG_0138

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Well, not perfect, but two quick, simple project that will do a lot to enhance the look of my outfit.