My well known love of fast progress made me decide to start the “Sew 17th century challenge” with one of the faster pieces – the skirt.
Staying true to my promise to avoid new fabric purchases, I choose a golden/beige satin from my stash. I’m not sure of the fabrics content but I would guess on a cotton/polyester blend. The fabric was gifted to me a few years ago and I saved it for something special – and I think this outfit more then qualify. I even got enough left (after the skirt) to piece out a 17th century bodice at a later date.
Without pattern, and with no particular help from the painting, I decided to copie the look of an extant 17th century skirt I’ve studied pictures of.
I started by cutting two skirt lengths of the fabric and stitched them together.
Then I hand basted three rows of spaced running stitch through the top edge, and pulled to create nice cartrige pleats.
Then I cut a piece of bias tape and stitched it on over the gathers to create a waist band.
I also made sure to secure the gathers by stitching the pleats to the next one the inside.the cartrige pleats from the outside…..and from the inside
I had some debate on how to make the waistband and thous treat the bias tape. my first thought was to simply fold it over and tack it down to create a regular waistband. But then I started thinking – a visible waistband would work for this outfit since he bodice sits on the outside, but if I ever wanted to make a matching beige evening bodice the tabs needed to be tucked inside and thous show the waistband. Not so good.
So instead I decided to fold the bias tape all the way over and tack it down to the pleats on the inside. This technique created a nice and smooth look. From the outside
Then I added hooks and bars at the waist, and hemmed the skirt after measuring and folding the bottom edge. Back view on hanger
What: A 17th century skirt
Pattern: None – just two rectangles gathered a the waist.
Fabric & Notions: 2,5 m of cream polyester satin, thread, 1 m bias tape, hook and eye.
Time: about 4 hours
Cost: Free – the fabric was gifted to me
Final thoughts: I’m not sure the bias-tape waistband was such a good idea – the waist seems to be growing for each try on.
6 thoughts on ““Sew 17th century Challenge” – the Skirt”
I suggest that you do some research on cartridge pleating. I think that is the look you were going for. Because you stitch your skirt to a separate band, you don’t get the stretch and the pleats help hold the skirt out from your waist.
That’s the word I was searching for – Cartridgepleating! They called “Stripade rynkor” in Swedish and I just couldn’t remember the English word – Thank you 🙂
You are welcome. I’m enjoying reading about your efforts.
Brilliant succinct tutorial … 😉
I know this post is several years old, but do you recall how wide the fabric was?