A Cherry Blossom part 1 – Underwear

A couple of years ago I attended a class in “costume design”, and one of the plays we got to work with was The Cherry Orchard by Anton Tjeckov. The play is set in the late 19th/early20th century russia, and are about a familys last days on their recently sold country estate.

cherry_blossom

We where asked to choose one caracter to design a costume to fitt the narrative of the play. I picked the caracter of “Anja”, a young debutant who dreams of love and a fairytale lifestyle.

I decided to make the costume from the inside out (being me, I couldn’t just do one dress…).

I started by deciding the underwear, doing a principle sketch combined with a lists of material and notions.korsett, turnyr, chemise produktteckningA corset, bustle and chemise.

korsett, chemiseAnd a costume sketch.

I started by making the chemise, in a soft cotton voile and decorated it with some lace. I used a free download pattern from the internet (which I unfortanly have lost the link to). chemise 1

Then I moved on to the bustle. turnyr tillverkningskittWith only pictures of bustles and no pattern I tried to draft my own, resulting in a pretty good shape – but probably not the easyest way to do it.

turnyr inutiInside of the bustle. You can se all the seamlines and the boning chanels.

turnyr stängdturnyr ovanfrån 2

Then it was time for the corset. I used Jill Salens pattern for “Pretty Housmaid corset” 1880s, which I enlarged using the computor and printer.

I cut the pieces in a lovely cotton sateen.Korsett tillklippning

The cording took  quite a while (it was my first time doing it).korsett helt cordat

I sewed it together, inserted busk, bones, gromets and then attached bias tape and lace. korsett divCreative mess.

korsett sidanDetail flossing.

korsett fram

I asked my sister to model the garmnents.CIMG3990

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1My favourite costume picture ever.

So now the underwear was ready, it was time to start on the dress.

But that will have to wait untill next post.

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