Birthday and Happy News

Wow, times really flies, it’s already been a month since my birthday and I haven’t posted about my gifts yet.

So here are what I got from my friends, family (and myself).

Gift-certificate presentkort Valid in almost any shop in our town

Part game “Kortslutning” kortslutning_551813ae9606ee4e02f499d5A question game where you are supposed to answer wrong. I’ts a lot harder then you’d think.

Book – “Victorian Fashion & Costume from Harpers Bazar” By Stella Blum 61RtChs-2LL._SX258_BO1,204,203,200_Unfortunately I already have this book – Guess there will be a giveaway soon…

Book – “Möte med Mode” (“Meeting with fashion”) by Berit Eldvik 20150614_150324_resizedI bought this book for myself for some birthday money, and I love it (an in dept look into this book are in the progress)

Dressform size S-M from my siblings50406(Not this one, but I haven’t got any pictures of it yet)

And a second Dressform size L-XL 20150529_144006_resizedThis one was not a birthday gift, but an heritage from a recently past aunt, but I count it as well.

I’m so thankful for all my gifts and of course my ever loving family.

But this year my birthday was spent a bit different from past years.
I didn’t get any celebration or special birthday food, instead i got to bed early after dining on some pasta with sauce.

Why?

Because the day after was the day I’ve been awaiting, and training for, all year
– The Local half Marathon, which I was to run.

After hours and hours of training during the winter and spring, I felt I was ready for the competition.

So the day after my birthday me and my boyfriend made our reparation (big breakfast) and got on our bikes to the start area.
The weather was pretty lousy, but at least it wasn’t to hot…
Since this was my first try at such a long distance I made the usual beginners mistake and ran the first 10 km to fast, and didn’t had enough strength to keep it up all the way.
I did finish however, and even if I was a bit disappointed at the time, I’m also happy I took the challenge and didn’t quit even when it was at it’s hardest.
lkpg halvmara

Afterwards me and my boyfriend (who did a great time in the race,  by the way) went out to eat.

At the restaurant we decided to go home to our balcony for dessert, so we did.

And then, among ice-cream and strawberrys, my boyfriend for ten years, proposed to me.
20150616_185703_resizedOMG!
And yes, I said YES! 🙂

2 years Lottery winner!

First I want to thank all of you who participated , and you who didn’t, but still gave your best wishes and congratulations – Thank you All so very much!

And now for the winner of the lottery.

Jennifer of “Country Mouse – City House”

Congratulations!
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I will send you an E-mail asking for your post address.

And your pattern will be yours in a few days/weeks depending on the post office.
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Thanks again for all your support.

/Åsa

2 year celebration and (maybe) a lottery coming up…

In a few days my blog will turn 2 years!

Hurray!

I hope to be able to celebate this with a lottery including one really nice price for the winner…

..BUT…

..To do so I want to reach 250 blog followers (248 today),
and 150 facebook followers (147 today),
making it a total of 400.

So if you want the lottery to take place, and get your chance to win the price for yourself (it really is a very nice price), tell your friends to hit the like/follow button either here on the blog or on my facebook page before Thuesday May 12 at noon (Swedish time).
(Rules for the lottery (if I hit 400 followers) will be announced in my celebration post on Thuesday.)

erzherzogin_marie_christine_am_spinnrad_oelgemaelde_mitte_des_18._jahrhunderts_original

A Pile of Notions

My favorite (and only) store for sewing notions have just declared bankruptcy.
They have been my go to store for ages, and even if they’r not the cheapest they are definable the most well stocked.

The most sad thing about it (apart from me not being able to shop there no more) is that they didn’t go bankrupt because of lack of costumers, but because the owner got arrested while traveling and shopping for more beautiful ribbons.

This week I (and every senior citizen who can hold a needle) lined up for the clearance sale.

And here are some of the thing I got…

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IMG_5361Cotton ribbons perfect for laces and cording

IMG_5362Cotton velvet in brown and midnight blue

IMG_536410 m of white and black pleated ribbon.

IMG_5368Many meters of lace

IMG_5370Pompon ribbon and more lace

IMG_5371Feather ribbon

IMG_5373Assorted colors of buttonhole thread

IMG_5374Belt buckles and butterfly patches

IMG_5376Buttons!

IMG_5378Inspiration overload….

Overload on beautiful Books

The days after Christmas I treated myself to some costuming books.

And today they arrived!
Yay!
IMG_496310,5 kg of costuming happiness!

From left to right:

In Fine Style – the Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion
 by Anna Reynolds
IMG_4980IMG_4981I just found this book this winter and I don’t regret for a second my impulse to get it.
Its a real candy book with lots and lots of gorgeous photos of existing garments and paintings with lovely close-ups of details.

Fashion – a History from 18th century to 20th century (part 2 1900s to 2000s)
by Kyoto Institute of Fashion.IMG_4972 IMG_4973This book series is classic for a reason. The beautiful pictures and the sheer size of the volumes are all reason you need to love it.

Fashion – a History from 18th century to 20th century (part 1 1700s to 1900s)
by Kyoto Institute of Fashion.

IMG_4969 IMG_4971If you ever searched the internet for costume inspiration, you’r sure to have encountered several of the pics in this book. They are simply breath taking, and the book is a real treasure to study closely or to just flip through for inspiration.

The Victorian Tailor – Techniques and pattern
by Jason Maclochlainn
IMG_4977 IMG_4979I’ve heard it said that if you only need one book about historic/Victorian tailoring, it is this one.
I can’t wait to really get in dept into this book, and hopes to be able to try some of the techniques in the near future.

The queens servants – Gentlewomen’s dress at the accession of Henry VIII
by Caroline Johnson
IMG_4974 IMG_4975Since I love “The Tudor Tailor” I expect this close-up on women’s servants to be great.
So far I’ve seen some interesting dress styles and lots of information about cut and colors.

Elizabethan Costume – Design and Construction
by Helen Qizhi Huang, Kelsey Hunt and Emily Hoem
IMG_4966 IMG_4967 IMG_4968
Considering I own and love the other three books in this costume series, I’m not that thrilled.
There seems to be some interesting stuff about construction and fabrics, but at a first gimps I’d expected more. Not to say that it won’t grow on me later on.

 

Now you might excuse me while I disappear in to theses goodies for about a month….

Fashion Through History – Now on Facebook

I just wanted to make a quick post to let you all know that I started a facebook page for my blog.
I mentioned this in my yearly summary, but felt it needed a proper mention.

Hopefully this page will be an easier way for me to share progress and inspiration pics, tutorials, links and great blog posts that comes my way.
I also hope the Facebook page will be a way for better communication, discussions and as a whole a part of the great costuming community that we share.

You can find it here (https://www.facebook.com/blog.fashionthroughhistory).

I hope you will enjoy it.

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Love

/Åsa

 

HS(F)M 2015

The Dreamstress have decided to host yet another year of wonderful historical sewing challenges.
Only this year we will all (and most off all me) slow the paste down a bit and do the “Historical Sew Monthly“.

After some consideration I’ve decided to participate even this year – Oh, how am I kidding there was never any doubt…
But this year I will put up some ground rules for me to follow.

*Use stash first – I may need to buy notions and fabric such as buttons, cord or lining but I will use fabrics from my ever growing stash as much as possible.

* Don’t sweet it – If I can’t finish in time for a deadline, there’s no pressure, I will just post whenever I finish. – This also means I will not rush to complete thing in a slopy manner, but instead take my time and make everything as good as I can.

*Take time of from sewing – If the choice is between hanging out with friends/hubby/family or sewing, I will choose people every time.

Let’s present the challenges and what I intend to do with them for 2015.

January – Foundations:
Make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

18thCpannierI’m going for 18th century here and doing some panniers – probably a smaller version of the ones in the picture.

February – Blue:
Make an item that features blue, in any shade from azure to zaffre.

7f449c24f267568720b72a36903b2682I’ve started a 1790s Redingote in a light blue wool for the HSF 14 challenge 22: Menswear, but left it after some hard design decisions. This is the perfect excuse to finish it.

March – Stashbusting:
Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.

c06c34a182a07515aa4b3c486a835003I’m not completely sure about this one, but I’m thinking of making a Spencer  from a beige wool I’ve got laying around. There are really to less fabric for anything else, and I do need some  more outerwear, but I might as well go in another direction with this one.

April – War & Peace:
The extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace.

sisI’m thinking of making the famous striped 1914s dress that Mary wears in Downton Abbey the day they get the news of the coming war.
I got some leftover striped white/green cotton that would be great for this project.

May – Practicality:
Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone,even princesses, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in.  Create the jeans-and-T-Shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period.

5880ee0d1aa5d43db828e03caa587e55I’ve long been thinking about making a everyday regency dress from some green cotton sheets I’ve got, and this seems like a perfect opportunity

June – Out of Your Comfort Zone:
Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.

borchA few fellow seamstresses here in Sweden are all getting their 17th century dresses finished this year, so why not join in. I love to make a boned bodice and skirt for this challenge.

July – Accessorize:
The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.

bba904c5a7aa1a5222e9b051ebcf7186This challenge could be a lots of things. I’ve considered headwear, aprons, jewelry and shoes, but I think what I most need (and want) are some 1800-1860s chemisetts.

August – Heirlooms & Heritage:
Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations.

dalsland4This one is hard for me, since I don’t know anything about my ancestors, and there are none of my older relatives left to ask.
But considering most of the Swedish population heirs from farmers, I suppose that’s as good guess as any.
I will need some more research to determent what to make for this one.

September – Brown:
It’s not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colours throughout history. Make something brown.

gray1I got some brown wool/polyester blend that would look great as a late 19th century walking dress. Perhaps something along the lines of the suit Satin/Nicole Kidman wears in “Moulin Rouge”.

October – Sewing Secrets:
Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance).

Digital CaptureYet another one I’m not sure about. But I know I want to make a 18th century mourning dress this year, and this may be the chance to do so. And the secret?
You will just have to wait and see.

November – Silver Screen:
Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece.

movies_20_memorable_movie_queens_4I’ve wanted to make this dress (worn by Cate Blanchett in “Elizabeth”) since I first saw it, I already got the fabric, the pattern and the period undergarments for it – so now is the time (If I can brace myself for so long).

December – Re-Do:
It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges.

?

I have honestly no idea on what to make for this challenge.
But since it is a whole year left until then, I’m sure I will figure something out.
After all, I got a pretty impressive list on “Want to make” this year…
(More on that in my next post)

2014 sewing planes – how did I do?

2014 are at en end, and it is time to take a look at what this past year have brought – in terms of sewing.

A year ago I made a (quite long) list of all the projects I would like to make during 2014. I must say I did pretty well considered the amount of costumes I dream’t about doing.

Lets take a look…

January:

1880s Corset
IMG_5851

1880s ruffled petticoatIMG_5831

1880s evening dress
IMG_566039.384 0002

February:

1901s S-bend Corset
IMG_7612

1770s Jacket and Skirt IMG_7731

Mars:

1900s Bust improver and corset cover
IMG_6527IMG_6477
1901 dress
IMG_7017995254_791052380911322_1484548453_n

April:

1901s hat and dress
.IMG_7559Camille21

May:

A 1780s petticoat and Robe Anglaise
IMG_8804images

a 1810s regency gownIMG_9159

June:

a 1880s Bustle IMG_9489

A 1850s cage Crinoline & petticoat
IMG_9578IMG_9544

1850s chemiseIMG_9453

July:

1850s Daydress
IMG_02202922460163_61fd26c808

and a 1850s evening bodiceIMG_0402

1880s Steamunk outfitIMG_0665tumblr_m9ebbiQMJ11qa0f2qo1_500

August:

a 1810s velvet spencer
IMG_1093untitled

1770s stays IMG_2192

1780s Robe Anglaise
IMG_122025_xl_AC04236

September:

A 1550s doubletIMG_2951

October:

18th century robe Anglaise
IMG_35851423_medium

Regency evening gownIMG_3376

November:

white regency evening gownIMG_4145

December:

1930s dressIMG_4576

1920s partydressIMG_4383

Countdown:
This year I managed to make:
10 dresses
7 jackets/bodices
6 skirts/petticoats
4 support garments (bustle, bumpad ect)
3 corsets
3 hats
8 (and still counting) accessories

Not on the list:
I’ve also styled a few wigs and re-made several pair of pants, skirts, and two wedding dresses.
This year I also made some things I never tried before (but definitely will continue make) – baby clothes.

I also finally started a facebook page for this blog, where I will post lots sewing, costumes and progress pics.
Follow me at: www.facebook.com/blog.fashionthroughhistory

Not made:
Dress-silk-1887-White-Howard-Co_25-W_-16th-St_New-York-Met-358x500 5024_side_view   2012-10-06 14.01.54  8312358697_ce6e37752bmoulinred1Lorena4Lady_with_Apple_1527cream3h2_1991_6_1a,b10340_201454_mediumbw21
Some of the inspirations above will be transferred to next years “Wishlist”, and some will be filed in the “not as exited about anymore” file.

Well, what can I say, a year is a long time when it comes to planing and keeping an interest, and a short time when it comes to actually getting things done.

I’m however very proud of what I accomplished this year.

An Outdoorsy Regency Spencer (sort of)

By the time it came to start on the HSF challenge 15, The great Outdoors, I was pretty drain sewing wise. I knew that if I was going to compleat this year of cahllenges I needed to give myself a break and make something simple once in a while.

So I decided to make something I’ve been thinking about for a while – a regency spencer.
But then I realised that I only had scraps left of lovely brown coton vevet I’ve wanted to use. and I did like the idae of buying even more fabric.
So I re-calculated and decided to make a sleveless spencer instead. And while I was at it why not turn it in to a west compleatly.

I used the Simplicity 4055 as a guide to get the overal line right, since I wanted the west to go over the yellow dress I made from the same pattern.IMG_0724I made some changes, like added a dart and re-shaped the back.

Then I cut it, made a mock-up and tried it on.
IMG_0807IMG_0811

It fit pretty well, but I didn’t really like the high neckline.IMG_0808

So I marked the new neckline and cut.IMG_0835

Ok, so it looks pretty stupid in these pictures but I like the tought of the lower necline and the dress showing.IMG_0844IMG_0839

When the pattern was fitted properly, I started to cut the fabrics – velvet, cotton lining and cotton twill for interlining.IMG_0891

I stiched the back seams and basted the shoulder and side seams together.IMG_0908

IMG_0909A first version to try on.

IMG_0923IMG_0926
It fit perfectly, even though the new lower neckline didnt really show due to the seam allowence.

IMG_0931I didn’t like the bust darts though, so I marked hem for shortening.

IMG_0963I toyed with the idea of skipping the dart and gather the bust instead. But decided it looked to bulky on the velvet. So I restiched the darts instead.

Then I putt in the lining, fideling a bit on the arm holes.IMG_0968The last piece to attach was the waistband, which I stiched to the lower edge.

IMG_1019I made one edge of the wasiband longer to make a cross over clouser.

Before turning the west right side out, I made sure to notch all the curved seams to make everything lay nice and flat. IMG_1018

I used a regular bath towel when iron the velvet as to not crush the pile.IMG_1017

Lastly I attached some buttons and the hooks and eyes for the clouser.IMG_1029

The finished piece (paired with my yellow regency gown):IMG_1171

IMG_1432

IMG_1434

IMG_1429

IMG_1177

IMG_1178

IMG_1180

IMG_1094

Just the facts:

Challenge: 15, The great Outdoors.

What: a regency spencer/west

Pattern: I used Simplicity 4055 as a guide, but re-shaped it quite a bit..

Fabric: 0,4 m of brown cotton velvet and 0,4 m brown cotton for lining (both scraps left over from previous projects) and 0,4 m of cotton twill for interlining.

Notions: Thread, two buttons, 5 hooks and eyes.

How historical accurate: not much I fear – even though it is compleatly hand sewed. I havn’t found any sources on this kind of wests.

Time: about 8 hours.

Cost: Basicly free since everything was leftovers from previous projects but if I would have bought it now it would probably be about 150 Sek (22 Usd).

First worn: For photos in the middle of august.

Final thoughts: I’m not happy with the bust. It looks rediculus and I have no idea how to fix it. Perhaps gathering will be my only alternative after all.

200 post and a update

Wow, So this is my 200th post!e1476ca3877049009670a843f92c70ad_PS_Krøyer__Hip_hi

A lot has happend since I first started this blog back in may 2013, both in my personal life and in my costuming world.

I have advanced quite a lot at work, and are now working ful time at the children section of out towns theatre.  a work which I love and hopes to be able to stay on for a long time.
Me and my boyfriend have also moved to a bigger apartment, where we for the first time feel we what to stay for quite some time. 5962707442_3ebed4feb1_o[1]And I even got a sewing room, where I try, but seldome succed in, keeping all my fabric, threads and pins. (Handsewing alone in the sewing room is just sooo boring…)

And regarding my sewing, I’ve been working on some new item as soon as I have some spair time.
This year I have also been attending a lot of costuming events. 800px-William_Hogarth_027I never knew there was so many creative historical nerds and events out there. I used to never get to wear my costumes, and now I constantly need to prioritice, to be able to go to the event I just can’t miss.

Right along with this being the 200th post, it seams as my pace here at wordpress is running out.
When starting this blog I didn’t know if I would like it, or even continue writing through the whole month. So I picked the free blogspace as a starting place, and now it seams like it’s time for me to start pay for the priveladge to write about my costuming endevor. Moneylender and His WifeWell, it’s been a year, and I still love to show my work to you guys (even though the writing sometimes take from my limited sewing time). So I will defenetly continue to post.
Guess I’ll be back evaluatig this subject when I reach 300…

In the meantime I’ll be here, creating new costumes one stich at a time.images (2)
Thanks to all of my woundeful readers, your support and input are invalible.

Love

/Åsa