Photo By Elin Evaldsdottra
1690s-1700 Court Mantua
Gowns like this was worn during Louis VIX reign in France, and consisted of an overdress/robe worn belted at the waist, and pinned closed at the front or worn over a stomacher. The skirt is worn over a smal bumpad and pettiocoats.
The sweaping train was hooked up to the belt at the back to give the “pulled back” effect, and the whole gown was richly decorated with trim, lace and fringe.
Pattern: I drafted my own using the 1690-1770s Mantua pattern from Waughs “Cut of Womens clothes”.
Fabric and notions:
5 m of striped polyester taffeta and 1 m of white cotton for lining the bodice part of the dress.
2,5 m of copper polyester taffeta for the skirt.
Thread, boning for the stomacher and back/side seams, 1 m of bias tape for boning channels, 12 m of golden lace trim, and 1 m of dark blue velvet ribbon for belt.
And 5 m of blue polyester fringe for the skirt.
How historical accurate:
Not particularly I’m afraid. The fabric and construction techniques are all modern, even though the pattern and general shape is ok, and they did have a flair for stripes and fringes at the time. One thing I didn’t know until halfway done though, was the facts that this type of gowns usually closed center front omitting the stomacher of the later era completely.
I’ll give it a 5/10.
Time: About 30 hours in total, but I’ll guess at 10-15 hours if I was to make another one right away.
Final Thoughts: I’m feeling a bit mixed about this dress. I did feel fabulous wearing it (and most of the photos turned out great), but I’m not entirely happy about some of the constructions “mistakes”, like puckering seams in the back and the fact it’s not a closed front as it should be.
1690s Mantua – Construction part 1
1690s Mantua – Construction part 2
1690s Mantua – Photoshoot