When the HSF Challenge 15 – White, was announced I decided to make an Edwardian S-shape corset (about 1900s) and maybe a chemise. But at the moment in all the crazy Francaise a la merteuil and Anglaise of satin trouble I had to much on my mind to really take the time to think about it and make a plan.
And then the “Titanic exhibithion” showed up, and I suddenly needed to get myself a 1910s corset instead.
You may think that there’s only a smal differens in shape in the 10 years, but look at this…
An Edwardian 1901s-shaped corset and a later streamline 1911s underbust corset.
For this challenge I actually did my research and took the time to look at, and read about the range of 1910s corsets out there.
After studying some pattern and pictures I decided to use Waughs under bust “1909 corset” patten.
I drafted and changed the pattern to fit my shape and then cut a mock-up.
It fitted surprisingly well, and only needed to be lenghten at center back, and taken in a bit on the hip and butt – so I’d be able to adjust and tighten it even more over the bum.
I searched the stores for some white on white brocade but had to settle for this cotton/polyester blend.
Altough beautiful I think it’s too white, almost hurt the eyes. And with the polyester content I didn’t want to try dye it to soften the color. So – bright white it is.
I used ordanary cotton fabric for interlining and lining. And cut them all out as one.
Bias tape boning chanales from the inside.
And from the outside.
I used heavy duty cable-ties for boning the corset, and some metal pipe-cleaners for the lacing in the back.
I made some bias-tape out of the same white cotton used for lining to cover the upper and lower edges. And as a finishing touch I added some white lace.
I also need to admit that I kind of cheated a bit on this challenge…
Since the rules of the HSF states that an entry can’t be finished more than 1 month before the challenge is due, and I needed to use this corset more than 3 weeks before. I deliberatly left out the suspenders of the corset and only sewed them on until the very last minute, hence finishing it whitin the time limits.
And finished:
Just the facts:
Challenge: 15 – White
What: A 1909 corset
Year: 1909 – 1920
Pattern: Waughs “Corset and Crinolines”
Fabric: 0,5m white polyester brocade, 1m white cotton fabric for lining and interlining.
Notion: Thread, busk, gromets, bones (Cable-ties and pipe-cleaners), self made bias-tape, 1m lace, 2 suspender-grips and 0,4m elastics (for suspenders).
How historical accurate: Sewing machines was in use during this period, and the pattern and silhouette and color are correct. The polyester thread, fabric and lace are not. So I say 50%
Time: 10 hours
Cost: 300SEK (33 Euro)
First worn: On the photoshoot begining of July, and then on the Titanic exhibition the day after.
Final toughts: After shortening the front boning about 4cm it became much more comfurtable and I could even sitt properly in it.
I also have some problems figuring out how to attach the suspenders to the socks without messing up the petticoat.
