Gentle(wo)mans 18th century Riding Hat

For the HSF 22 – Gentlemen, I had some grand planes, but life happened and the project has been postponed till next year.

So instead I decided to make and submit the complementary accessory to the original outfit – A 18th century riding hat.

Some inspiration: tumblr_nh7flpLgEr1sivgcyo4_500

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To start, I bought a simple wool/felt hat at the local fashion store.hmprod

Then I drowned it completely in hot water, and forced it onto a acting hat block (a flower pot) and molded and pinned it to shape.IMG_4221 IMG_4223

I used some weights to make it hold its shape while drying over night.IMG_4224

When the hat had dried and the shape was set I pinned one of the side up and stitched it on. I then added a length of feathery trim I found in my stash. IMG_4806

I also added a piece of black satin ribbon and a small buckle to finish it of.IMG_4802

The finished hat:IMG_4815

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Just the facts:

Challenge: nr 22 – Gentlemen

What: A 18th century riding hat made from a regular fashion wool hat.

Notions: Thread, satin sash, 1 silver buckle and 80 cm of feather ribbon.

Time: Active time, maybe 30 minutes (24 hours if you count the drying).

Cost: 100 Sek (16 Usd) – 79 Sek for the hat, and the rest of the notions came from stash.

How historical accurate: Not really. Apart from the fact that black wool hast were common for riding attire, there is noting accurate about it.

First worn: Not yet, since this is part of a whole ensemble which is not yet finished.

Final thoughts: I can’t quite decide if I like it or not. It may be that it looks to “costumy” to be any good. But I guess I can always add more feathers.

This was such a fast and easy project that I cant help feel I’m totally cheating as the HSF goes, but at this moment I don’t care, I’m just happy to have something to submit as my final item to finish this years race.

Bonnets and a Bergeré

This spring/summer have been quite intense regarding sewing for me. And as every costume requires it’s own special headwear I haven’t just been making clothes this spring – there have been quite a lot millenery going on as well.

And since The Huge Picture Hatt alredy got its own post, I thought it was time to show a bit more about some of the other pieces of headwear I’ve been doing/re-doing this summer.

Lets start with the 18th century Bergere.

You might remember it from last year (when I made it from an regular sunhat).IMG_2593

This is how it looked when I found it in my big hat box, and decided to make some changes to it.
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So I un-picked those green pieces of fabric inside the hat (I put them in last year to get something to attach the hair pins in, but it does work better to just push them through the hat).

Then I stitched on some metalic wire at the edge of the brim, and covered it with white bias-tape.
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IMG_7892Then I re-trimmed it with a plain green twill-tape.

And this is how it looked when I wore it with the brim tured up, at the big historic picknic.IMG_8785

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Next up is a  regular straw hat that I’ve turned into a regency bonnet.IMG_7073

I folded the hat in two, made a mark where to cut, IMG_7879

and grabbed the scissors. Make sure to stich the rows down before you cut, so the hat dont un-ravel.IMG_7880

Then I stiched on metal wire along the cut line, and covered it with bias tape.IMG_7889I used white bias tape at first , but decided to change it to a  nude tone twill tape instead, to make it more inviseble.

IMG_8656Close up of brown/nude twilltape.

The un-trimmed hat.
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Then I pinned on some white lace and a big flower brosh I had in my stash.

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IMG_8657Altough it does look pretty, it looks a bit too costumey for my taste.

So I re-trimmed it using another piece of lace and some leftover ribbon from my yellow regency gown paired with a black brosch. Much better.IMG_9198

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And here is how it looked worn togeter with my yellow regency dress.IMG_9132

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And finaly a 1840s bonnet made from skratch.

I used the same pattern (and tecniques) as my brown velvet bonnet, only cut it a bit smaler to get a slimer model for this bonnet.

I used thick canvas and super stiff  interfacing as the inner layers. And a white striped cotton voile for fashion fabric.IMG_7870

Before sewing anything togeter I stiched wire to all the pieces.IMG_7875

It was a bit tricky to sew inside the hat piece.IMG_7882

At least I only broke one needle…IMG_7887

Then it was time to start the hand sewing.  IMG_7890I attached the “lid” and covered it with fashion fabric.IMG_7900Then I stiched on the brim and more fashion fabric (no pictures sorry). And finaly I attached the lining on the inside.

At this stage I was ready to throw it out, it looked so terrible. The fabric was puckering and nothing I did would make it lay flat. I did a final try and decided to trim it to see if that would make it look any better.

It is fantastic what some pieces of lace can do to a domed project. It does actually look presentable.IMG_0454

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An this is how it looked this weekend when I wore it for a photoshoot.IMG_0207(You even get a sneak a peak of my next HSF project)

Edwardian headwear

The early 20s century have a great range of magnificent headwear, and so many I would love to own. Here are some of my favourite styles:

The “picture hat”, “cartwheal” or just “the big one”.

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And the ones a bit smaler.

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And of course the even smaler ones inspired by the gentlemens headwear.

hats 1910 from digitalgallery-dot-nypl-dot-org

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I think I need to make myself some more Edwardian outfits to match all the hats I whant to make.